engine out?
Turbo Mini Forums

Right then,
Im ready to take my engine out.
Could someone please give us a little run down of Where to start, And what to take off first,etc plz plz plz :). ive got the haynes, but It's the new one and I know some of you dont always go by that. And would i still be able to have the wheels on so i can move the Car around, as someone (not from here) told me i have to take The hubs off, which mean's i cant keep the wheel's on. take it this Person is talking out there *** lol or not.
Be greatful if someone could give some info. ill be very greatful Of there patients..
Cheers lads.
P.s, if there is a link on here about this, then could someone send Me the link, ive searched but not come up with anything,
Maybe im not searching hard enough :)

Mark where are you based? If your near enough ill come and give you hand!

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

Undo Ancilleries.
Alternator
Radiator
Carb.
Exhaust.
Brake Servo (if fitted)
Unbolt Brake Slave Cylinder from Transfer Case.
Unplug wiring ect (label them it helps)
Undo earth strap.

Then Undo Gear Linkage (at the box end) this includes the 1 bolt + the Grub Pin.

Then Undo engine Mountings.

As for the hubs you only need to undo them temporary in order to pull out the drive shafts (make sure you drane your oil before you do this) Do this by splitting the ball jouints. You might be able to get away with only doing the top one.

Edited by MikeRace on 13th Jul, 2007.

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

no need to drop the hubs if you're using a hoist, just lift it a shade lever one pot out then shift the engine the other way and pop the other one out.

Hmm makes it a bit tricky tho, sometimes it quicker to split em.

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

splitting them is quicker lol

no need to remove the:
Alternator
Radiator
Carb.

Heres my method
exhaust
gear selector lever (can be a bitch!!)
clutch pipe (from cylinder to thingy on the engine lol)
earth strap
fuel line
battery cable and all the other cables inc accelerator
bottom engine steady
top engine steady
bottom engine mounts

lift it up a bit and remove the speedo cable

then do what you wish with the pot joints, snapping is easiest


im sure ive missed something- normally do lol

Thanks for all your help :)
Ive taken everything of the engine already.
Theres was a reason for that.
Anyways, so now ive just got to get the engine out of the car.
So,
Gear Linkage
speedo cable
engine Mountings
splitt the ball joints and then the drive shaft will come away ?
can i still keep the wheels on and move the car bak and forth ?
Or do the wheels have to be off.
Or lol do i just put the joints back on once engine is out.
I just dont want to make hard work for my self. like take stuff off i dont really need too do :)
Im in herne bay kent, near margate.
Your about 4 hours away lol
That's a shame :(

battery first lads!!

iv taken the engine out about 4 times and i can get the engine on the floor without any issues in about 1 hour.

once the engine is out you can reasmble the ball joints and pu the wheels back on.

when you pull the drive shafts make sure the clips for the boots arn't on there otherwise you might end up wpulling them in half.
then once the engine out get a bar on the drive shaft ends (think there called pot joints?) and leaver them out and put them back on the drive shaft ends before you refit the engine. also make sure you put them back on from the side you took them off.

thats how i do it anyway. remeber the battery first though!

cheers
josh

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

I usually split the hubs and do the driveshafts first. Its probably the most time consuming bit so i like doing it first - makes everything seem like plain sailing after that!

Once you have the drive shafts disconnected from the pots you can join the hub back up and put it back on its wheels if you want to!

Rich

I agree!

Mark when removing the drive shafts,

In a nut shell

remove the wheel
split the ball joint
pull out the shaft
Put the Ball joint back in
Put the wheel back.

Then your engine is free.

Edited by MikeRace on 13th Jul, 2007.

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

make sure you drain the oil first though....

Do you guys pull the driveshafts out by hand? I usually have to get a long flat bar of steel and tap the ring in the pot joint that the shaft slots into while somone is pulling on the hub!

Ive tried just pulling it before but no luck!

i forgot once aswell, unfortunatly my drives on a hill, and i was working at the top.....£££

i split the drive shats if that makes any sence?
not sure if its the proper way but iv done it a few times and its quicker and easyer. never had a proplem doing it yet!
then when its on the floor get a flat bar or a shovel works well and lever it out past the circlip.
then stick them back on the end of the drive shaft.

not once had a proplem and it saves alot of swaering! lol

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

Thanks for your help lads :)
Got any problem's ill let you know :).
Roger's right, every day is a school day.
Who needs a haynes when you have
turbominis.co.uk

I haven't popped the Ball joints in over a decade now - I always lift slightly, then rock the engine over to one side and pop the first Joint, then the other.


How anyone can say it's quicker to do this is beyond me - sure, you have to drain the oil - but you do this after disconnecting the battery, whilst doing all the other crap.

I know the comments about draining oil apply - as in why bother if it's just an engine swap, but every opportunity to change the oil in a mini should be taken. And if the engine was going to be stripped or repaired - it's easier to drop the oil whilst it's in the mini than on the floor of your workshop!

Another reason NOT to split - unless you have an engine hoist that rolls smoothly on the ground where you're working, it's easier to lift the engine upwards, and push the mini backwards. You can't do this if your ball joints are off.

Try it once - and you'll never do it the long way again!

So you split the actualy pot-joints away from the gearbox? I think ill try it next time. I read in the haynes you need some special tool to get them off.

How do you get the pots back on when you put the engine back in then?

Rich

You dont need a special tool - get a set of pry bars like these from machine mart or similar and lever the joint away from the output covers.

http://www.kwtool.com/catalog/images/4%20P...20Bar%20Set.jpg

You only need to lever them away around 5mm or so - until they're off the snap ring.

Occasionally, you will find some that are tight as hell, and don't want to release. First trick is to spin the pot 90-degrees or so, give it a wobble, and try again. Occasionally the locking clip will be oriented in a way that doesn't let the joint release - spinning can sometimes help.

Failing that - I also have a tool that was made from 1.5" x 1/2"thick steel bar, bent into an L-shape. This is basically a 'hitting stick' that i can pop behind the underside of the pot, and twat with a BFH. ALL pot joints sucuumb to this! treatment!

Once you have them both popped a few mm, lift the engine up, around 3", then rock it to the left - you can now slide the whole pot out. If it doesn't, then try going lower, or higher on the lift, or cocking the engine slightly.

Once its out, point the inner end of the pot (that has come out) downwards, and position under the diff housing. Now you can rock the engine over to the other side, and pull the other pot out (this is always easier as the engine can move across more).
Let this one drop, and lift the engine another few inches, and disconnect the speedo cable!

Ro re-fit, you lower the engine, do the speedo cable, then lower until you can get the pot to slide into the splined shaft. Occasionally, you'll hit a tooth butt on the splines - if so - just twist the output shaft on the other side slightly.
Once engaged, slide the pot fully home, and rock the engine over the other way. You now can engage the other pot.

See - Easy peasy lemon squeezy!

thank f*** i have spicers LOL!

I hate spicers my dad has them on his cooper S and there a dog to remove.

It doesnt matter if you split the actual joint off the box or remove the drive shaft from the pot.

Depends if you dont want to drain oil or replace boots.

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

?? i've always found them a peice of piss.

I am also glad i don't have spicers. Been there, got thouroughly pissed off.

thats the one, aka a persuader or a brummy screwdriver.