Clutch problems
Turbo Mini Forums

Everytime I want to down shift, the gears grind. The only way I can get it into gear is to give a quick blip on the throttle as the clutch is depressed. 1st gear is the worst you have to come to a complete hault before selecting the gear?

So far I have;
*changed the slave cylinder (as it had a slight leak)
*set the throw out stop and return stop,
*bled it several times,
*checked condition of ball on the end of the arm (looked ok),
*checked the piston on the slave isn't up against circlip at full travel.

How could I tell if it was my primary gear sticking, and not problems with the clutch? Any other suggestions of what it could be would be much appreciated?

Cheers
Matt

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

What's the clevis pin like in the arm?

In the 13's at last!.. Just

how many miles has the pressure plate done?

this could be your problem if all else checkes out.
is it pre vertro ?

could be the clutch plate is sticking on the primary gear as well made up with a little dirt

Eerr release bearing anyone!

Own the day

The clevis pin looked good when I took it apart to inspect the arm.
The pressure plate has only done 1100miles or so, 500 on my old engine 600miles on current engine. It has only been playing up since the new build which is the odd thing?

The release bearing looked good when I checked it last build, and no funny noises from it.

The sticking plate sounds like it could be possible if you think that would cause the above symptoms?

Oh yeah it is the pre verto setup btw. :)

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

If the plate is sticking on the splines of the primary gear it could drag (ie, not release fully as it can't slide away from the flywheel) but unlikely after such a low mileage (unless it was sticking on the splines when you put it in) - what did you do to the splines when you assembled it, ie did you assemble it completely clean/degreased and dry, or did you use some high temperature lubricant ???

Opinions vary as to which is best, but I know what I do and they don't stick.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

yes sticking on primary gear splines, i would go for that, keep it dry and clean no lube required

A quict test:- Put it in gear keep your foot on the clutch and start her up. If it is dragging you will know. oh do this in an open space!

Own the day

fooked Baulk rings

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sounds like you cant drive a greasy stick up a dogs arse (only joking) but you should have always been blipping the throttle on down changes, makes the syncro's last longer

As far as I remember I didn't put any lube on the splines, but I don't think I ever have in the past!?

I hope its not the baulk rings, that would suck! They were fine on the old engine so can't see this being the problem at the moment.

I'll have to whip the flywheel off I think, and see whats going on.

Cheers for the suggestions, looks like its gonna have to come apart!

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

something that may be worth looking for matt , is the clearance between the c clip and washer ,and the recess on the back of the flywheel ..

the problem ,the recess was a touch too small ,and the thrust washer was on the flywheel enough to put pressure on the primary gear ,to make the flywheel and clutch plate act as if they were welded together ,a good test for this is to jam down the clutch with the car in gear then try to push the car or turn the crank , if its a dragging clutch prob itll show ,because it should be easy to push or turn.

Edited by robert on 23rd Oct, 2008.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

if you come to a standstill, and it goes in gear easy peasy, and the clutch seems to work just fine when you move off you will almost certasinly have worn baulk rings, is it a straight cut set, if so whos baulk rings, did you but non genuine if you did,

carl

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Reverse is the test, as this is non-synchronised. At idle, put foot on clutch, and attempt to engage reverse. It might grid a little if you are too quick, but if it wants to grind 3 seconds or more after pressing clutch fully, then it is dragging no matter what.


Here is THE guide of things to check....
http://www.manchesterminis.co.uk/index.php...sosinfo&sosid=9

Hmm well that makes things a little worse! Reverse is fine it never grinds!

When I had the box on the old engine it would grind if I didn't have the return spring fitted but as soon as it was fitted all worked fine?

Not sure what baulk rings are fitted as I bought the box complete.

Robert, that is a good point as the flywheel does sit further in on the crank on this engine than the last, as it needed quite a bit of lapping in. But would Dave's/Carl's points make this irrelivant?

Edited by matty on 23rd Oct, 2008.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

id follow thier excellent advice ,then if its awfull move on to get it off and see if its pushing on the ring ?

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

I'm with carl on this you have fucked balk rings

if it goes in reverse as Dave said you have fucked baulk rings,

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Deffo Baulks, had the same thing. Try this.. Leave the clutch in for a while when changing gear, then have a go. I bet it goes in gear ok.

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
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Echo

is it only changing down or also while changing up?

Drives
-Ford S-max Mk2 Ecoboost
-Rover 100 VVC #2 - track project

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As it's OK in reverse...

Does it go into all forward gears OK when stationary, like it goes into reverse OK when stationary ???

If it does, try car stationary and in neutral, clutch out (pedal not pressed so drive to the gearbox engaged), rev it a fair bit (just to spin the input shaft and layshaft up to a nice speed) then depress clutch quickly and try to engage any forward gear.

If it crunches a bit when you try forward gears after a few revs but doesn't crunch at tickover, then...

Baulk rings.....

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

Ive only tried putting it into first and reverse when stationary, but will try the others and see what happens.

Paul R, It only grinds when going down the gears, going up the gears its fine, its more noticable the lower down the gears you go.

Doesn't look too good though from the symptoms! Never rebuilt a gearbox before so could be interesting! Lol

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

i have a gearbox in my garage with a slightly damaged case if you want to run low power on a standard box for a while? your not to far awayand i have no work atm so could give a hand if needed (never striped a mini box before though)

Drives
-Ford S-max Mk2 Ecoboost
-Rover 100 VVC #2 - track project

Searching is all you need on TurboMinis

Cheers for the offer Paul, but won't get round to doing the 'box yet as im in the middle of sorting suspension, and interior out.

I'll probably just try and get it all done in one hit early next year.

What are the best baulks to use?

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???