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madcatminis

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Dudley, West mids

Alright men. Picked my engine block up today and started to trial fit my crank. The bearing shells went in mint but after fitting the thrust washers there was no side movement. All bearings are new as a standard size and the thrust washers are also new with std stamped in them. Do you think I should get another set with a thinner thickness or is a tight crank okay on a turbo block as this is my first turbo a series. I've built n/a units before and never had this problem. Cheers guys. *happy*


minimole23

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Wiltshire

what end float are you getting then?

On 7th Oct, 2010 5haneJ said:
yeah I gave it all a good prodding


madcatminis

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Dudley, West mids

Virtually none, Well none at all. but the crank spins great.


Rob Gavin

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Glasgow

I had this issue although to an extent it turned out to be my crank. When you say there was no movement, was this checked with a dial guage/ feeler guage? end float should be very small

there are a few guys who lap the face and rear of the thrusts a little to take off imperfections, particularly from the stamping on the back.


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

fisrt of how many thou endfloat is there?

for std & lower rpm stuff i aim for 2 thou, if its going to see 7k or more i open it up a couple of thou.

also sand the back of thrusts on some wet and dry to knock back the stamping, then mic them up and match them side to side,

also mesure the clearance dry.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



madcatminis

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Dudley, West mids

I used the classic method of........sight and feel. I get really excited when building an engine and left the dial gauge at work. On previous engines I've built I could feel the movement but on this one I feel nothing. I think I'll try the lapping method.


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

measure it...

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



minimole23

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Wiltshire

I'd just get a dial guage on it. then its right, no guess work.

On 7th Oct, 2010 5haneJ said:
yeah I gave it all a good prodding


Sprocket

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Preston On The Brook

and no oil

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


madcatminis

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Dudley, West mids

Cheers guys. Thanks for your advice. I'll be liberating a dial gauge and stand tomorrow from work. *hehe!*


Rob Gavin

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Glasgow

yip - measure it first and worry about it after


Rod S

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If you assembled it with oil (as you should have done) you will not "feel" or "hear" 2-3 thou.

Put a DTI on the end of the crank......

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Vegard

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Chief ancient post excavator

Norway

I agree. Virtually no endfloat while the cranks spins freely is good.

I take it that you've torqued the centre main cap up?

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.



Sprocket

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Preston On The Brook




On 27th May, 2009 Rod S said:
If you assembled it with oil (as you should have done) you will not "feel" or "hear" 2-3 thou.

Put a DTI on the end of the crank......


Not sure what you mean by 'should have' assembled it with oil. A dry build is what it says, dry. You cannot use plastigauge to measure the clearancies of the bearings with oil there as well, nor can you properly measure the end float when there is oil present.

Build the engine up with out rings dry, to check all the clearancies, refrain from turning the rotating parts. Build the engine up again without rings, and lube everything and check for any snagging

(says he who just suffered main bearing failure *happy*)

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


richminiturbo.

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Horndean - Near Portsmouth

I was concerned about this when building mine.

I used the Bill Sollis DVD, in which (wet build), he demonstrated crank endfloat by wedging a screwdriver behind a web on the crankshaft and levering the crank either way. Even on camera there was a destinctive "clicking" as it moved.

I was worried as mine didnt do this, I didnt have a DTI gauge, after speaking to my machinists they said to just carry on and build it as they assured me they machined it ok. They said a littled lower than what it should be, but once its bedded in it'll all be ok.

I have my fingers crossed, as my revs drop at the moment when I put my foot on the clutch, im hoping this is just down to the diagphram and that it'll loosen itself off as they said.


fastcarl

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On 28th May, 2009 richminiturbo. said:
I was concerned about this when building mine.

I used the Bill Sollis DVD, in which (wet build), he demonstrated crank endfloat by wedging a screwdriver behind a web on the crankshaft and levering the crank either way. Even on camera there was a destinctive "clicking" as it moved.

I was worried as mine didnt do this, I didnt have a DTI gauge, after speaking to my machinists they said to just carry on and build it as they assured me they machined it ok. They said a littled lower than what it should be, but once its bedded in it'll all be ok.

I have my fingers crossed, as my revs drop at the moment when I put my foot on the clutch, im hoping this is just down to the diagphram and that it'll loosen itself off as they said.



Thats a very clever thing your machinist has done there, he's taken it upon himself to machine your thrust faces and match a set of thrust bearings to his tolerances , what a guy, what a bullshitter you machinist must be,

no offence directed towards your good self , thrusts don't bed in , they are either set correctly or they are not, either way it can be a lottery whether they last or not, depends largly on assembly methods and driver imput,

carl

carl

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE


richminiturbo.

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Horndean - Near Portsmouth

I agree, I have been concerned since I built the engine but I was eager at the time.

I had a an issue where one thrust went in fine, the other wouldnt go in at all (both STD sized), I took my block down for them to look at and they machined a bit off one of the crank faces, so the thrusts fitted ok, giving about 2-3 thou, I cant remember.


Sprocket

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Preston On The Brook

I would have thought it better to fly cut the back off the thrusts, they are easier to replace. But a standard thrust face with a standard thrust bearing and a standard block and cap, there should be the standard tollerence, if its tight, something is wrong? no?

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


Sprocket

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Preston On The Brook

..

Edited by Sprocket on 28th May, 2009.

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


richminiturbo.

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Horndean - Near Portsmouth

Thats what I thought, we'll see!! Yes? (gordon ramsay)


Vegard

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Chief ancient post excavator

Norway




On 28th May, 2009 fastcarl said:




no offence directed towards your good self , thrusts don't bed in , they are either set correctly or they are not, either way it can be a lottery whether they last or not, depends largly on assembly methods and driver imput,



I must say that some of the thrusts I've installed have had som small amount of metal removed upon removal. Brand new thrusts are far from flat on the bearing face.




On 28th May, 2009 Sprocket said:



Not sure what you mean by 'should have' assembled it with oil. A dry build is what it says, dry. You cannot use plastigauge to measure the clearancies of the bearings with oil there as well, nor can you properly measure the end float when there is oil present.



I've just learnt that one SHOULD use oil before plastigauging.
I always use a light smear of engine oil on bearings when dry building. Otherwise, the bearings WILL be marked. It's stupid not to..

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.



robert

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uranus

blimey , i use 5 thou !!

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


miniminor63

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me too Robert


Rod S

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On 28th May, 2009 Sprocket said:



On 27th May, 2009 Rod S said:
If you assembled it with oil (as you should have done) you will not "feel" or "hear" 2-3 thou.

Put a DTI on the end of the crank......


Not sure what you mean by 'should have' assembled it with oil. A dry build is what it says, dry. You cannot use plastigauge to measure the clearancies of the bearings with oil there as well, nor can you properly measure the end float when there is oil present.

Build the engine up with out rings dry, to check all the clearancies, refrain from turning the rotating parts. Build the engine up again without rings, and lube everything and check for any snagging

(says he who just suffered main bearing failure *happy*)


Sprocket, you are absolutely right about measuring everything "dry" first (although I would never do it completely dry, a small smear of oil on all moving parts), but I was responding to this

On 27th May, 2009 madcatminis said:
I used the classic method of........sight and feel. I get really excited when building an engine and left the dial gauge at work. On previous engines I've built I could feel the movement but on this one I feel nothing. I think I'll try the lapping method.


My point was you should "feel" nothing if the engine has been assembled properly lubricated.

You shouldn't be able to see (by eye) or feel 3 thou with a fully lubricated set of thrusts.

But a DTI is the only proper way of telling....

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Mr Mini

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Portsmouth

Can you roughly measure crank endfloat with the conrods and pistons installed (gearbox not on yet)

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion

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