Always seems to run hot
Turbo Mini Forums

Chaps, my car always seems to run hot, which is suprising since i have a big ally front mounted one.

On the move it runs about 80deg, however when stood it always creeps upto 100deg and above.

I have 2 fans which push 1100cfm a piece fitted to the front. pushing air through the rad into the engine.

Heres the setup

Standard Waterpump
Blanking Sleeve in Head
Heater Tap Blocked off
A pipe running from thermo housing to top of Header (which is very small)
And a Pipe feeding the Bottom Rad hose from the Headertank.

Any Suggestions? My next plan is to put 24deg advance accross the board on the ignition.

Cheers

Mike

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

Check your temp sensor! Somebody on here rescently replaced his entire cooling system 2 or 3 times only to find out that his temp sonsor was fooked.

This has crossed my mind, either that or a pooped gauge.

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

Could try one of those infrared thermometers you can buy.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=180378640063

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

Running with the heater tap blanked? Is your motor dry decked?

Own the day

Nope

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

Eeer yeah that was me. Sounds like you system is more than up to the job.

Get an actual correct reading of the water temp if you can.

Also I would re plumb in your heater take off. Put it back in the system to help take away heat from the left hand side of the head.

Si

I drill holes in everything..!

Where should i run it?

Back to the Header? Or into the Rad?

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

back to the bottom pipe where the heater return goes. the same as you would if you had a heater

I thought about this Mike after I collected that turbo stuff and I reckon plumb it in before the water pump so that it draws water from the head through the heater tap past No.4.

I know this will draw hot water back into the block but IMHO this should lower the overall temp especially around No.4.

However I could be completely wrong

Edited by John on 9th Jul, 2009.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

These were my thoughts bud. I have plenty of time and knowledge around me at Avon Park.

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

have you retained the heater? I assume not.

Edited by Mr Joshua on 9th Jul, 2009.

Own the day

Nah

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

you can achieve the above by running a copper pipe around the rocker cover.

Been covered in a thread not so long ago, here is a picture.

Own the day

Does it ever overheat when on boost, you say it dosen't in the first post. If so then your system is upto the job.

If it's only a problem at tickover, then it must be a water or air flow issue.

What size pulley have you got on the pump?

You could try adding something to the water like Water wetter http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp we found it made a good difference to our temps.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

It always overheats pulling into the garage, this is when youre pulling up an incline with heavy clutch work and boost, dumpvalve going ten the dozen.

Carl mentioned that i could have an airleak somewhere in the system, thus depressurising the system.

Heres a pic of the side of my Rad



Heres a pic of the pulley



Wil how can i test the flow? Take the Hose off the rad whilst running lol?

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

BTW in the top pic, the top black hose goes into the thermo housing.

and the bottom goes to the water pump. You can also see the feed to the header tank.

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

Don't know how to test the flow, but it liiks like you're using the smaller pulley, so you can't speed the pump up.

If you can just leave it ticking ove rand it dosent pop the rad cap (even if it gets hot), and it stays 'cool' when normally running I'm not sure what you can do.

Try the water wetter

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

No it doesnt boil over mate, it just indicates that its hot, it does feel hot to touch. The top of the rad feels hotter than the bottom, usually.

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

Funny that, hot water feeling hot...

May sound obvious, but if you have a thermostat, have you checked it is opening?

Also i'd test the temp sensor, as my clubman was always in the red, turned out to be a faulty sensor. Even though i'd replaced it with a new one.

No its a blanking sleeve mate, not a thermostat. So the cooling should be working from the get go.

Ill take the other gauge with me to avon and do some testing.

Edited by MikeRace on 9th Jul, 2009.

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

Ok. So your not running with any bypass which is why you may need to think about the heater tap, but you are using a restrictor plate which allows continual circulation so your cool there (pardon the pun).

What clocks are you using? If they are the standard ones check the that the voltage to the gauge is correct, someone on here very recently found that the component ( its name fails me) that is soldered on the back had failed and kept reading hot.

If its reading hot but you can take the radiator cap of the and the water its not boiling over or attempting to scold the skin from your hands, the answer however improbable when you have ruled out the possible has got to be the answer. Gauge reading incorrect.

Own the day

think its very strange no one has mentioned setup. If the iginition is wrong, or the fueling is out, it might run hot, also at idle. Get the car set up properly if you have not already..

This is on the cards after avon park for deff! I cant take the lid off the header or it just blasts out of the top!

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/