Engine Questions
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi

I am running a 1330 with Kent 296 cam.

Now the engine is apart am considering before putting it back together is getting the crank balanced, as I am not sure what has been done on this in the past.

It has standard flywheel etc but I am thinking an upgrade may be in order. Can I have any recommendations?

The concern I have is that by putting a light one on there, with a lumpy can with make it even more lumpy and there will be less intertia to turn the wheel on idle. I am going to be running standard rockers as these are not meant to help with such a high lift cam anyway.

Cheers

Jon

go for the minispares ultralight flywheel and back plate. then have the whole rotating assembley ballanced.

long overlap cams and lightend parts go hand in hand. the reason why OEM places those massive flywheels there, is to help with tick over
with conservative cam profiles for economy reasons

O.k.

Just to double check I think I have a verto clutch, theres no triangular type plate when i take the cover off.

Also i think i have an intertia starter, as there is no solenoid on top.

I cannot find an ultralite flywheel to suit this setup???

Other than the flywheel and clutch plate do i need anything else or is that it?

Thanks

Jon

Edited by jonb_5 on 26th Aug, 2009.

Are you planning on any upgrades in the near future? If so it might be worth considering changing to a pre verto setup and doing as Benross suggested.

Hi

What would then benefits be of changing to pre-verto?

Can you not get a light flywheel to suit my setup?

Thanks

Jon

Look at C-AEG421, a lot of the weight is in the actual clutch though. Prob 90% of people on here use a pre verto setup as it is lighter and there is a wider range of diaphragms and clutch plates available i.e you can build a setup to cope with more power.

A lot of people seem to be going down the RTS inspired clutch route nowadays.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

Lol i was waiting for someone to say that, now you've confused matters :)

Hi

I am not really looking for every last HP, 100 ish would be fine by me which makes changing from verto to pre verto fairly pointless for me i think.

Is there a newer lightweight flywheel I can fit with my setup or do they just not make them?

Thanks

Jon

MED do a lightweight verto,

Verto and a 296 camshaft is stupid. Too heavy. If you're going to fit a 296 you need to go the entire mile. I guess you've lready got decent pistons, high CR, good head and a 45DCOE??

Hi
While the engine is apart I am getting the head sorted. I have a decent set of piston and yes the CR was high before taking the engine apart. I am running a Hif44 as i dont want to mod the body, with the possiblity of bike carbs in the future if required.

I have never heard the argument of the different clutches working differently before but if i need to change i will.

What do i need, and any idea where i can get it?

Thanks

Jon

If running a Hif44 because of body mods, then run a different cam. Unless you only do it to impress the friends at the pub.

Yeah - I often go to the pub and tell everyone what cam I have!

What cam would you recommend, I have only heard good things about the SW5?

Cheers

Jon

The 296 and SW5 are MIIIIILES apart. The SW5 delivers all the goods before 5000rpm, whereas the 296 delivers NO goods until after 4500rpm.

For a road engine the SW5 is great. This also works with a less modified engine. As Benross say, the 296 needs £500 worth of head, £300 worth of pistons, big twin carbs, big exhaust etc. Ultralite flywheelm and so on. It will still be horrible in traffic.

Hi.

Thanks for the advice - the problem I am having is that i bought the engine as is and after having some problems with it have decided to strip it down and rebuild. I dont really want to be doing it again soon so if the cam has to go, then ill get rid.

I do however want a quickish mini, so i dont want to get a stupidly mild cam. I have an every day car so its not going to be sat in traffic alot, its more or a weekend toy and then maybe a couple of trackdays a year.

Any recommendations on cam, would a 286 still be too lairy?

Thanks

Jon

I feel that a 286 is borderline for a road engine. To gain the best of this cam, you'll still need a Close Ratio gearbox and so on,a nd also a light flywheel.
However, a 286 will work with a single HIF44, a RC40 exhaust and a mediocre head.

Consider this: When driving, do you spend most time under 4000rpm or over?

I'm changing the cam in my road Mini from a 544 ( similar to 286) for a SW5 this winter.

I had a 286 in a road car, looking back it was shite, would not take full throttle below 2500rpm, would not idle.

My personal N/A road cam choices are in no particular order:-

MG Metro
SW5 (poss with 1.5 rockers)
Kent 266

However recently I have been driving the yellow mini with a Kent 276 in and although the idle is a little bit loppy its a really nice drive with the torque where you want it.

AC Dodd has a decent cam review section over on MLM's forum.

http://www.mlmotorsport.com/forum/index.php/topic,334.0.html

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

Hi

Thanks for all the help guys, i really appreciate it. I think an SW5 seems like a good choice.

I am going to place an order with minispares before the end of Aug to benefit from 15% off.

I have a list of all engine bits but as i am going to change to a pre verto clutch what do i need to buy here?

So far i have:

http://minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=35440
http://minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=ai&p...=0&tc=1#submenu
http://minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=37325
http://minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=35076

Cheers

Jon

or something like this?

http://www.med-engineering.co.uk/product_d...97&vlang_id=540

Thanks

Jon

Written by yours truly http://minispares.com/Articles.aspx?ty=ad&aid=571

Unfortunately it messed up the format on the site, if you want a neater list in a word doc i can email it to you.

Edited by t3gav on 28th Aug, 2009.

Think the swiftune option may be a little over my budget. Will go for MED setup as its no more expensive than buying each part from minispares and its balances already.

Can then just stick it on the crank and get the whole lot balanced together then.

Instead of buying all the arm new i am going to try and get the bits second hand as i am in no hurry.

Thanks

Jon

just to confuse you jst a little more i have a vp3c cam, this come's in arund 1500 and finishes around 7200, gives me 87bhp at wheels and 107 at fly good torque, if you have a look at my previous topics i think the rr graph is on there showing the torque.
The other thing you need to budget for is MJ!!.

have we not covered all this with you before? i maybe wrong