Belt drive or chain?
Turbo Mini Forums

As per title. Which would people prefer/think is better for a turbo a-series? I'm specifically looking at this: http://www.7ent.com/detail.cfm?pageid=3786

Too expensive for what it is, or is it worth it for the adjustability?

Thanks in advance!

-James

That's very expensive. Talk to matty about belt drives

Just ask Joe (mini13)

Is that in US dollars? If so, it's rediculous money. Swiftune or MED vernier duplex works without fault.

On 12th Nov, 2009 Paul S said:

I think Gary OS has taken over my role as the forum smart arse

Id stick with silent chain type. Its nit actually a chain with teeth as such.

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

i like them too, but theyre bloody hefty bits of kit, weight a tonne

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

I've got my hands on one of these.

http://www.med-engineering.co.uk/product_d...99&vlang_id=542


Not fitted it yet but no chian or belt.

But might be a right pain in the arse to set-up. I will report my findings once fitted.

Si

I drill holes in everything..!

Those gears are easy to set up. You just have to drill a couple of extra holes for the dowels that locate the idler gear and jobs a good un. I had a set on my 1330. Originally from slark. They where the muts nuts!!!

Its in you bugger. lol

I'm onto my next engine. How about you...?

Si

I drill holes in everything..!

Thats good to here.

Sorry for thread diversion

Si

I drill holes in everything..!

On 30th Apr, 2010 apbellamy said:
That's very expensive. Talk to matty about belt drives

Edited by matty on 30th Apr, 2010.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

so the med cam gear kit, it eliminates the belt, or chain altogether?

yep

ok. wow then. For some reason that just never occured to me. That might be the way to go then. The motor build is pretty much a no expense spared build, so that'll get added to the list I think...

The MED set has an idler gear similar to your drop gears to eliminate chains and belts...

Saw that they now have an "improved" version....

Looks the business to me, but never had any experience. I just got my belt kit (not the super fancy one) from Seven today 8-) that they say runs thier Can-Am car problem free. Also got the new KAD silicon damper too :)

Right now I'm N.A., but possibly turbo on a spare motor on my Austin 1300 (America).

Eric
my pics.... http://www.fototime.com/inv/7AAF37CF3EFA956

P.S.....been reading the forum for a while now....great info!!!

Eric
my pics.... http://www.fototime.com/inv/7AAF37CF3EFA956

i like the bullshit bit on the MED site about redesigning, its a fooking wheel ,just how did they manage to redesign it, bullshit speil , they are just hyjacking bryan Slarks idea and added some spin,

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE

lol. yeah. Which would you recommend Carl? A slark or the med? I'm thinking the slark kit might be like hens teeth over here.

MED and Slark re engineered the cog drive together. Steve identified that the teeth bottomed out as they meshed which caused the problems that Slark encountered.
Im very interested in it myself - will sound awesomely loud and will have virtually no timing scatter

I seriously doubt it!

Nibble has a gear kit fitted. Think it was an MED one.

Are you able to comment Neil ?

Richard.

Minivanless, but reluctantly happy living with the decision. There'll be another one day.
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=minimadmotorman#p/u

sorry not replyed just got back from riv run
yep i got this to http://www.med-engineering.co.uk/product_d...99&vlang_id=542
its easy set up you get 1 deg on the holes and 7deg on the teeth i set mine to 110deg as used a MED T3 CAM
i used 2 DTI one on the piston and one on the push rod got it 110 deg bang on just keep checking it till yor happy,
the worst thing it drilling the block for the roll pins you need get it on a good pedestal drill and i cut the feeler gauge and put it in each side of the middle gear to get the gap RIGHT ( O YES YOU HAVE TO FILE THE BOLT HOLES OUT SO YOU GET SOME MOVEMENT ON THE MIDDLE GEAR TO SET THE GAP RIGHT)
they not noisy but make the engine sound like a bike engine
good luck mate

Edited by nibble36 on 3rd May, 2010.

Chain drive....cheap, simple and oddly enough they work !!


So really...is there actually a real and genuine need to change it ?

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

just rememberd i got pics lol

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE