Dry decking (again..)
Turbo Mini Forums

Morning all,

I'm planning on dry decking my turbo build, but have a question before I get too far!

I'm only doing it for the more consistent coolant temperatures etc, not for head gasket purposes, so how comes I have to still block up the waterways on the block/head? Could I not get away with leaving them, and putting the water port on the head still, or does that make the modification pointless as there won't be much flow?


Thats all, Cheers!

The point of dry decking (for cooling) is to get the water to flow down the block from the pump and then back accross the head. This promotes more even cooling on all 4 cylinders.

If you leave the head and block open, the water will still flow through the original waterways. Some water will flow through the dry deck ports, but you loose the even flow around the block/head. You would get away with just doing either the head or the block.

The other main point of dry decking is so that should the head gasket fail during a race you don't get oil flowing into the water or vice/versa and can still finish.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

Thanks for the replies, I knew that from my searching John, but it's really just for cooling for me!

Thanks again Andy :) More work that has to be done I guess, just trying to get out of it!

Do it once and do it right!

why dont engine manufacturers do this? what are the conns to it?

Alpa just blocked off the cylinder 1 & 2 front water holes and he seems happy with it.
There is a picture un his build thread

Rusty by nature

anyone seen this from med?

http://www.med-engineering.co.uk/product_d...69&vlang_id=512

Kind of defeats the purpose in my opinion as you have oil and water touching the gasket still.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

Yeah but you still get more even cooling

Dry deck ports from Fast Carl/Turbo Phil, a hole in head and some plugs don't come to £150!

[quote=Amp,10th Dec, 2010]Morning all,

I'm planning on dry decking my turbo build, but have a question before I get too far!

quote]

Í also want to dry deck mine engine, but is it possible to do this with each cilinderhead.
The workshop who is doing some work for me is telling me that the head seems very thin where the adaptor should go. I don't want the head to be ruined because it is already got the ports flowed.

I was thinking that not every casting is the same so i just got a thiner one.
What are youre experiance with this?

there is nothing wrong with a A-series that a turbo can't fix.

www.turbomini.nl

Mine's not massivly thick. I can measure it if you like.

there is nothing wrong with a A-series that a turbo can't fix.

www.turbomini.nl

The bottom left quarter is 5mm thick the other 3/4 is around 8mm thick.

It will be sealed with RTV. The pic is a little deceptive. With the port fitted, there is around 1mm gap at the bottom left with no screw fitted at that side. It should seal up fine.

I have no concerns other my girth

RTV, what is that?

there is nothing wrong with a A-series that a turbo can't fix.

www.turbomini.nl

Room temperature V... (viscous springs to mind, but is wrong). Basically it's a sealant that sets at room temperature forming a water and oil tight seal. Used a lot in engine building, at least by me anyway.

Edited by apbellamy on 11th Dec, 2010.

fernox is good stuff for this sort of stuff,

er, stuff...

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Vulcanising

That's the one

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

geek

Cock lover!

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

love is a bit strong, I think like is more appropriate

I 'love' my cock. I'd be devastated if I lost it.

If I 'liked' my cock, I wouldn't be too bothered about loosing it.