the day has come.....
Turbo Mini Forums

well only after a month of driving me turbo mini something has broken,gave it abit in 1st,put it into second and something broke,rattling noise and crunches when going to pull away,and judders asif somebodys wacked a screwdriver in the diff teeth. what you reckon it is??planet gears??? it had a comp diff pin put in when i put the engine in,and i never rag it around corners.



cheers

this is what happens when you introduce mini, to turbo

Please keep us updated.

http://www.rabdunn.co.uk/

thats exactly what mine did dude, and that stripped 2nd gear, dont keep runnin it as mine had fucked the oil pump and started on the bigs and scored the bores

i turned it off and towed it home,im hoping i dont have to rebuild the hole engine!! im ganna get a EVO 4 pin diff today, are they anygood??

i shall keep you updated,the engine is coming out as we speak,got me old man on the case while im at work lol

what does this sound like then,surely the diff pin cant go after a month of putting it in, and i never give it large around corners etc..... hmmm

The minispares (evo) x pinn diff is pretty much buttet proof m8.

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=3604

-MINI CLUBMAN 1380 TURBO-

nice one,i shall get that today then. so can you give it some welly around bends etc with this without the chance of diff pin failure???

also,while the engines out im thinking of a lighter flywheel..would this make much difference on a turbo or what????

cheers

hi dan

sorry to hear on your backfooter....

well strip the motor and see what you find

the problem comes for most people when the metro ECU is removed and we just run boost unmodulated through a higher actuator or bleed the signal off

this increases the the torque curve massivley in the engine around 3000rpm and as a consiquence usually the standard diff pin breaks or the idler gear bearing in the g/box side caves in so check this for wear as well

replace the bearing and make sure the idler gear shaft has not picked up (marked, scored) as well.

lightend flywheel is a good thing depending on the sate of tune you are proposing usally a cam of say above 270 deg the engine would benefit. are you going to the pre vertro flywheel??

either you will have to have the crank ballanced along with the flywheel damper and clutch

please Research this further dan:

this is only a generalization of what you have asked
i hope this helps:....................................

Edited by BENROSS on 7th Mar, 2005.

Thanks ben,i knew this would happen eventually but didnt think itd be so soon.

as for the flywheel,the engine is completely standard,was just gunna bung one on...

what type would it need to be? and isnt it worth it on standard lump?

4 get it on a standard lump dan

spend you money on a intercooler and plumb that in more than make up for the flywheel in your motor

look at the idler gear bearing in the
gear box, carefully any signs of that been beaten up in the slightest, change that as well
they are not expensive

and go for nothing less on a 15/ 40 oil grade

but better with a 15/50 if possible on rebuild

all to often people fall into the TRAP of filling there engine with say piss oil like 10/30 believing because they have payed say 40 per gal its the best it may well be but you need a better viscosity oil in our OLD A series engines

iam sure most guys will back me up.

this contributes to the longevity of the A series motor.
not saying it would have stopped yours wraping up dan

but it will help with the new diff etc in the future

make it happen buddy

Edited by BENROSS on 7th Mar, 2005.

yeah the valvoline 20/50 is good, its what i use.

Dad just called me,has got the box off and its the 1st gear and the one that meshes with it,teeth are gone.everything else is fine.

so i have an option,either replace the gears that are fooked,or get a straight cut gear set, OR i know someone who has a straight cut box for ?250 but is pre A,so i can take the gears out and put them in my casing....

whats the best option, and does anyone know if metro turbo gears are the same as a normal 1275 mini????

shel be back on the roads tommorow anyways

thanks

go for the new straight cut gear set and minispares 4 pin diff
Also straight cut drops as well
may take a little time but it will be worth it you shoul fit it and forget it
bear the cos >>>>>>>>>>>
thats my oppinion

the gears are the same except the ratios and the idler gear A TO A+
but i may stand corrected

oh! and maye sure no debris has got fast in the oil pressure releif valve

be sure its as clean as possible

its already got s/c drops, i can get the 4 pin diff for under a ton,and the gearset for under ?300
(i work for moss)

that way i can fit and forget like you say,should be pretty bulletproof for hard cornering shouldnt it???

as i was too scared to give it large on the bends before incase the diff pin went....

should have a bullet proof box having said that

while you are at it you could up the ratio on 1st gear like TURBO DAVE talked about as
1st standard is crap

its the metro challange ratio of 2:54 i think
please do a search to confirm

Im getting a s/c gear kit so dont think i can change the ratio of 1st gear, BUT its an evo s/c gear set,will it be standard ratio or are they close ratio????

also,are the bearings alot of cash as im ganna change them too. luckily the bits of metal having gone anywhere as i turned it off as soon as it went,so its just a gearbox rebuild,thought id do it properly and do the s/c and 4 pin diff

This is really making me think - is it worth even trying to run our car with a stock mini gearbox? or should i put the build back a month or two and do it properly?

on the first question dan PASS!

the second question not expensive around 50 quid for the set

alex well its still early on in the year buddy so i would not rush to build the engine up as i presume you will be running more boost with an intercooler than standard once you find your feet:
you be itching for more!
and there is only one way to to it

and THATS right first time in my book

thats my oppinion

it will be prudent to sort the box at this stage if you have gone this far on your engine alex:

dan can you get me a new gearset and stronger diff for cheap?

Previous Engine: 1040cc Morespeed engine, 1275 turbo head T2 Turbo Mirage Manifolds Megajolt
Previous engine: STD metro turbo, megajolt
Drives: 399bananahp (flywheel) Honda Civic Vtec b18c4 T28 Turbo 1968 Mini

Megajolt maps to download: http://www.jamesfawcett.co.uk/cms/index.ph...&gid=3&Itemid=3

Cheers ben. :)
we're aiming for about 120bhp to begin with.. not massive power, but more than the 60 the box was designed for

ALEX:

belive me 120 BHP

is more than enough to make your arse fall out

comming out of a bend around 60ish on full wack
its a bit of an hand full to say the least

pardon the french

1275dan, did you fully rebuild the standard diff when you put it in a month ago? if so could you just let me know what sort of condition its in after a months use, just if its pretty bad then i will just wait and get the mini spares x-pin but if its ok, then i will continue my plans and rebuild the standard one (including new plannet gears)

thanks, and sorry its a little off topic...

Dan

pot_dan, the diff pin doesnt look warn,but ive been good and not giving it the large around coners/roundabouts,just full throttle on the straights. i found that there was a fair bit of wear on the bearings etc,which may have caused this to happen.

ive bought s/c gears now,and a 4 pin diff,and its got s/c drop gears.sp should be solid,

so getting a lightened flywheel wouldnt do anything?? i thought its like shedding weight off the car???

alex,its all well and good building the engine up and whacking it in like i did,but when something like this happens you will kick yourself,if you got the money then do it. i couldnt afford it at the time so i just put it in and took the chance,but taking chances with a turbo mini is asking for trouble if you ask me,i just found out the hard way lol

you can prevent things like this by taking your time and building it properly,for ease of mind if anything.

yes a lightend flywheel is like you say

but having said that its where to put your money Dan
in the right place

if you go for this option you will need all the rotating components to be balanced 4 sure and thats more cash out of the back pocket

otherwise you would be in the deep stuff for sure,
if it lasted it would be a bit of a shaker unplesant to drive


you have to strike a balance dan

but if you have big pocket well go for it!

lol no i dont have a big pocket,not since owning a mini anyway!!

im ganna get all the bearings etc tommorow,il forget bout the flywheel for now then.. do you know if straight cut gears are ganna make it alot louder than it was with just s/c drops????



thanx

should'nt do, most of the noise is from the drops as the gearbox gears are drowned in oil.

-MINI CLUBMAN 1380 TURBO-