cant get my flywheel off
Turbo Mini Forums

Got to the point where ive undone everything from the flywheel, cranked up the puller and i simply cant crank it round anymore. Ive got a 24" breaker bar on the end of the socket, and although im not the heaviest of people, i weigh 10.5 stone, and i cant shift it. Anything i can do to help persuade it to come off?
Id prefer not to use the usual advice given on tmf, which is to wallop the fly through the starter hole :/

have you tried the blowlamp?

sparay some penetrating fluid on it, and leave it over night, often they'll pop off after a while,

then see if you can crank it up some more, and warm they flywheel up.

Ive just soaked it in 'super strong' penetrating fluid, and ill leave it for half hour, then attempt to crank it, if not ill get the blowtorch on it. I wouldn't have thought either of these two methods would have done much because of the area between the crank and fly, but ill give it a go!

This might sound strange but full fat original coke is superb at shifting stuck items. I was at a loss with a vr6 dizzy that was stuck - I'd tried everything, heat, wd40, big shifters, hammer, everything... Someone suggested coke and I thought they were joking. I was so desperate I tried it, left it over night and hey presto it was free...

Make sure all the bolts on your puller are inserted the same length out your flywheel otherwise it will not be pulling straight.

Then wack the middle bolt up with an air gun or your long bar.

If it still doesnt come off get the blow torch out and head the flywheel, try not to get the crank so much.

Iv left the puller on mine for a couple of days before tightening it up each morning/evening then eventually they pop off.

try boiling water and pour it over the taper of the flywheel. wait a few minutes.. always works for me

Like above, make sure the puller is straight. Tighten the puller really tight, then tap the puller bolt in a rythmic fashion. Hitting the end hard in no rythm never seems to work for me.

Hope this helps


Mike

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


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The puller is straight, im not that daft lol

You say that iv thought i had it straight before but after measuring is as a couple of mm out, straightened it up it popped straight off... Worth a double check if your having trouble i guess.

I see what you're sayin, i have just checked it and theres 1mm between all three, i dont think im going to get it much closer than that lol

Bollocked more penetrating fluid on, ended up talking to craig about the micropenis and sand porting, gave it a random crank, and it fell off

:)

Clutch is glazed to hell, but there's plenty left on it, i think the problem has been oil? See what you lads think as i can change it now while i have chance.

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did it judder on take up?

if not I'd whack it back, rough up the back plate and fly wheel with a bit of wet and dry though,

What do you mean joe?
Its never juddered but occasionally it slips like a complete bitch, which is why im doing this now, i have a new clutch plate (ap updated same as what came off) and an orange diaphragm to put on instead of the green, reckon my oil seal is okay?

ah if its been slipping I'd go with the new plate,

it dosent look that oily in there, but is does look like somone has been a bit overzelous with copper slip on the clutch splines, could be that on the plate.

if the seal isnt oily give the housing a going over with gunk and a blast with brake cleaner.

I dont lubricate the clutch spline,

Craig Hampton, busy degreasing my bell

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Pffffnaarrrrrr!!

Is this right? I bought all new nuts and bolts and stuff cos i didnt know what i was going to find.
These drive strap bolts have a collar on, and the ones i took off didnt, and were something of the same thread without a collar, and the straps and locktab were tightened up against the fly with almost no play. I wanna know what im doing now is right before it goes in. No reference in haynes to this particular area....

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On lightened flywheel's the flywheel is thinner where those bolts go thorough, so to get the straps sitting flat they end up with spacers/ washers under the straps,

So on a standard flywheel, what ive done there is okay?

I think so, IIRC the std setup has on washer under the straps (anyone?) but basically see how flat the straps are when the flywheels bolted together,

If I am reading that picture correctly, that is how you have installed the bolt, straps and lock tab and bent the lock tab over? is this how you intend to install the flywheel and clutch as we see it in the picture?

The only reason I ask is that those straps are not seated on anything, the washer underneath is loose and the shoulder on the bolt looks like it is bottoming out.

Ah,

I missed that,

add anoter washer or two so the bolt dosent bottom out.