Arp big end bolt alternatives
Turbo Mini Forums

Are there any alternatives? I'm running out of money fast and if I can substitute the arp bolts for something else I might just be able to get everything else I need and have it running this month!!

Also I'm building an rts clutch, what friction plate should I use with it?

Al.

As I said before, and in my opinion, whilst the ARP rod bolts aren't essential, particularly at speeds say <7000 rpm, they are a pita to change and in reality it's cost effective to build the bottom end with them installed as you dont want to be doing it all over again and it's piece of mind as well in case you have excursions over 7k.

I'd put off taking the missus away this weekend and just bloody fit em !

As for the clutch, my choice is the AP Racing bonded Rally Plate, C-AHT 596 from Minispares at about £69 inc VAT.

Linky:

http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=...id=35698&title=

I dont think I'd fit a sintered plate for what you have in mind and at the power level you are talking (150 at the wheels ?).

Again, you don't want to really be changing the clutch out too often.

Rich.

Edited by turbominivanman on 28th Jul, 2011.

Minivanless, but reluctantly happy living with the decision. There'll be another one day.
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Standard rod bolts in good condition should do the job nicely.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

Rich, I just spoke with Ron walker and he told me a storey about when he built an engine for bill solis. Hed supplied non arp bolts and after lightening and polishing them one race later he came back annoyed that a rod came out the side of the block...

Needless to say I'm about to order the arp bolts.

And that clutch!!

Standard rod bolts will be fine for a turbo build.

yeah, I don't see the point in ARP rod bolts for a turbo, I've got some on my turbo engine but I didn't put them there lol. I've got some arp head studs not fitted yet but I can see them being usefull on a turbo engine. It's the same reason why you don't need a fancy bottom end for a turbo... they don't really rev higher than standard engines lol

Edited by danrock101 on 28th Jul, 2011.

Was it 100% known to be a failed rod bolt, at what RPM?

Not needed IMO. I only have them in the race car as it sees over 7k all the time.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

Ah well, better safe than sorry. I'd hate to build it then something go wrong because I didn't fit them...

This is the propoganda that ARP survive on.

I wonder if anyone has some specs on the materials to show what improvement thay actually offer?

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

Exactley, people fit them not because they know the benefit of the material properties but because they are ARP bolts.. Even when they have no idea at what stage a standard bolt would give in.

Its the price of the ARP bolts that do my head in, surely they aught not to cost quite that much.
My opinion on them is that for high rpm use is that id use them, im not sure what ill be doing with mine, so i think im going to fit them anyway, if i can be bothered to spend the wedge on them.

Despite using well over 7000rpm in my "spare" engine at Santa Pod, on standard bolts, I have used ARP bolts on the present motor just for peace of mind even though I rarely exceed 6000rpm with the GT 1752.

I"lost" the cost of the bolts in the sums of money that I was spending at the time !!

I asked about before buying bits for my engine and had a variety of answers. The middle ground from the "reliable" sources was if it will regularly see 7K+ or intermittently see 7.5K+ better than standard conrod bolts are a good £60ish to spend. I have heard of standard A+ rods and bolts working for many miles in engines seeing more than 8K, but the consensus seemed to be that was a bit of luck. For the record mine has arp conrod bolts.

I was almost as hard as getting a good answer on the need for centre main straps.. which mine does not have.

They cost £75 from Minits, which I don't think is too bad really. I didn't buy arp head bolts as mini spares offer an EN24 material 11 stud head kit for £57. It's for my own peace of mind. I do have a lead foot and I know in the excitement i'll probably miss a gear, possibly over doing it.

The centre main strap i couldnt say no to, for the price and if youre needing machine work done anyway, its saft not to!

Yep got that one too Carl!

For me the ARP's are not really about their strength, its more about their reliability in repeated assembly and disassembly, they always have that re assuring feel when they are being torqued up, unlike the plastic feel you get with standard fasteners.

Edited for the atrocious spelling

Edited by Sprocket on 28th Jul, 2011.

Im sure im not running ARP's. Its been a while since ive had the engine apart though!

Mine regularly (read as everytime I drive it) sees 8.5k and I haven't touched the bottom end for the last 4 years.

The main reason you don't hear of ARP's failing is probably more to do with that fact they are new bolts, in comparisn to someone using the same old bolts that have been retorqued time and time again and are probably 20-30years old.

Edited by matty on 28th Jul, 2011.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Right on, Matt.

Edited by wez on 28th Jul, 2011.

one day boost will be mine!

we know that no one has had a rod bolt failure with ARP rod bolts torqued up correctley!!!

EDIT:- all my engines are fitted with them......... i once built an engine with the standard metro rod bolts which ar top quality but used ......... and after 5000 miles or so the engine came back as the guy goosed the standard gearbox .......to find on strip down just one of the nuts worked loose just on say 10 ft pounds ??? and my wrench is calibrated twice a year ....... and no i did not forget to torque it down correctley!

Edited by BENROSS on 28th Jul, 2011.

I always find this crazy that People even contemplate not putting ARP rod bolts and head studs, add up how much you have Spent on the cylinder head, cam and pistons. Typical figure Pistons 350 notes, cylinder head , 500 notes, cam 200 notes right that's 1050 quid. Arp rod bolts 75 quid and head stud kit 90 quid that's 165 quid that just over 15% the price of the major components when not fitting them could potentially cost you 100% no brainer in my book !!!

I agree Paul,

I have hear of people running to 9k+ on std A+ bolts reliably, on the other hand I have had them break just torquing them up, fo 70 quid its good insurance.

Consider that anyone in their right mind would replace the rod bolts for new ones when they rebuild an engine, the standard A+ bolts cost £52 at Minispares, so the £94 they charge for the ARP bots isn't to bad in my opinion. More so if you can get them cheaper elsewhere

im just going to echo what others have said but i think its a no brainer

the arp rod bolts cost 1/10th of my crank and rods, both would be trash if a rod bolt let go, with the pistons and head ontop of that no question over the cost of the rod bolts

Yes i moved to the darkside

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