Weld sealer / joint sealant
Turbo Mini Forums

Hey everyone.

Apologies if this has been covered in any other posts but I did a search and couldn't find anything for it, 

Basically I have had new floors and a rear Valance welded on the Convertible, it's currently on its side at the moment and I am nearly at the stage where the underside is completely clean and prepped ready for a coat of Kurust, then red oxide then a underbody sealer, 

Question is...... Is there anything anyone can recommend so I can seal the welds ? To smooth them over ? 

A friend told me you can get weld Sealers but I was just after people's opinions and if they have a product tried and tested ?

Jamie.

My 79 Clubman Build Thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=451008

Jamie.

Normally called seam sealer - the same as you'll find on all the seams from the factory build.

Available in cartridges (use the same cartridge gun as bath sealant to get it out) or tins as "brushable".

Personally I prefer the tins of "brushable" - put it on initially with a palet knife then brush it to shape with a normal paint brush dipped occassionaly in thinners.

There are other ways but that works best for me.

Last tin I bought was from my local Wilco but just put "seam sealer" into eBay for others.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

I used Tiger Seal it makes a right mess


From ebay.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tiger-Seal-Polyu...=item2a17169ebc

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

Jesus christ Si, thats not so much a sealant, moreso an adhesive. Fair enough if you had some lying around to use, but i hope you didnt buy it for that purpose lol.
When i used it for my roof skin, the shit gets everywhere

i use the sika cartidge seam sealer and mask off the areas to be treated and then use a cheap brush to finish it all off

Grey stripe seam sealer its shit hot

13.95 1/4 mile on a 2.95 fd. Carnt be that hard to beat!

Haha, no the tube gos a long way mate, I was like a 5 year old at play school when i was done.

simon.

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

I use the brushable stuff. Use a good quality 3/4" brush and load it right up, and apply with a slow single pass, keep loading the brush. This will give you an almost identical appearance to the factory application. If you decide to use the tubes, as Rod suggests, apply it from the tube, with a nice thick bead, don't scrimp on it, and then, again with a good quality brush with a slow single pass, smooth the bead of sealer out into a ~1" wide strip.

It's taken me about 6 tins of the stuff to learn how to get the factory finish without the mess I used to get when I first started out

One other piece of advice. Give the sealer PLENTY of time to propperly go off, as it shrinks probibly about 25%, even after when you think its gone off. Give it at least 1 week before applying any paint as it will only crack

Primer before application?

No reason why and no reason why not. One thought though, I used some industrial Red oxide on the underside, and the solvent in the seam sealer disolved the paint, so if anything the red oxide and the seam sealer are now well bonded to each other

Trying to decide if I do that myself or let Rick do it when he paints it...

I do the same as Sprocket.

I use a polyurethane sealer which sets quite quickly and is also a bonding agent.

Dont get it anywhere where you want to remove it later !!

I used tiger seal on the mk1 and the finish was brilliant. You need to apply it like you would a bathroom silicon sealant, then just finish it with your finger. Have a damp clotch to wipe your hands on and it doesn't go everywhere.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

I also used tiger seal, I always wear rubber gloves, if it dries on your hand its a nightmare to get off.

Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs

On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble

Hey all,

Thanks for all your comments, so at the moment I can see two products standing out from everyones messages;

Tiger seal to be used with a caulking gun.
or
Brushable Sealer from a tin (Any particular brand?)

My 79 Clubman Build Thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=451008

Jamie.

You can tape off areas so the seam sealer is applied neatly.

But seam sealer should be applied to clean, dry bare metal. Otherwise the sealer is just sticking to the paint.
But it does need to be clean and dry. Whereas at least the paint will also seal the metal to a degree from moisture

Years ago I used some stuff in a tin and it was superb. More recently got some stuff in a cartridge and it was complete and utter shite. Soft, soggy and didnt dry very well. No doubt it's totally harmless to the planet though, and pretty much useless as a seam sealer !

get good stuff though and it really is handy and can look very neat. Do wear gloves etc though, as it stick everywhere.

Edited by stevieturbo on 23rd Dec, 2011.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

Thanks fella,

Everything will certainly be bare metal, and I will 100% be masking off areas as well :)

Been trying to find tiger seal at any local motor factors today, can't find it anywhere local, not even at Halfrauds :0/

Would like to pick one up locally this week so I can get it straight away and get on with the work, don't want to order from eBay an have to wait :0/

Anyone know anywhere in Hampshire that sells it ?

My 79 Clubman Build Thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=451008

Jamie.

Tiger seal is alot harder to get hold of than it used to be. I went to my local paint supplier that used to sell it, and they sell another sealant now, made in the same factory but just wasn't called tiger seal...exactly the same stuff but half the price! lol

I applied mine over the etch primer as ive seen what happend when rover didn't prime under there sealant.

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www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Ok thanks, will try local paint shops.

What happened ?

If I have the body at bare metal, I was going to ;

1 - Kurust What needs it
2 - Seal Welds
3 - Red Oxide whole of underside
4 - Apply underseal / schultz paint etc (final finish)

If anyone thinks I am doing anything I shouldn't or I should do more please shout and tell me :)

This is my first time going into this depth on a build.

Edited by Wile E. Coyote on 27th Dec, 2011.

My 79 Clubman Build Thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=451008

Jamie.

My shell had rust underneath the sealant, and where the sealant finished the rust finished.

As im reworking my shell, I found that there is no rust where I put the new sealant on over the primer. In my eyes it certainly does no harm when using it as a sealant. If you are using it to bond panels then I can imagine the primer would have a significant effect on its bonding strength though.

Edited by matty on 27th Dec, 2011.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Not using it to bond panels, 100% just for sealing the welds.

Just read Sprockets message above again about the Red Oxide and Seam Sealer dissolving issue.......

My 79 Clubman Build Thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=451008

Jamie.

I used U-pol etch primer, then the sealant, then another coat of etch primer over the sealant, then 2k filler primer. If you get a good quality primer, it will have rust inhibitors in it so there should be no need for red oxide in any case.

When getting rid of rust, I always wire brush the area using an angle grinder, then apply a coat of kurust, then wire brush it again, then another coat of kururst. That will ensure that all of the loose rust has gone, and that the rust treatment isn't just treating the surface layer.

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www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

sikaflex and another no name polyurethane sealer where pretty hopeless holding my door skins on ,this may have something to do with the sun heating the ally sheet up though .

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

Thanks Matty, I'll take your approach when I apply the Kurust as i have a fair bit of it lying about........

Managed to get a Seam Sealer from a local Motor Factors that was open thankfully;

Tetrosyl Brushable Seam Sealer 1kg = £15

Edited by Wile E. Coyote on 28th Dec, 2011.

My 79 Clubman Build Thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=451008

Jamie.

Just about to start this in about half hour, my plan is to literally cover every joint, seam, weld on the underside.

Will post results up later on, just going to bring workshop up to temperate first :)

My 79 Clubman Build Thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=451008

Jamie.