To buy or not buy, that is the question?
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi all,

I have been reading the thread about the supercharged and turbocharged engine advertised for sale on ebay by WRLondon provisionally sold by Rubicon.

I am a newbie to forced induction and would love to get some advise please.

Does anyone think this is a worthwhile engine to buy or should I just wait for another complete unit to come up for sale and go down that route.

Please Help

Thank You

Bobby

Its a complex setup and will take a lot of work to get it running well.

For your first go at forced induction, I would go for something more standard.

If it's the right money it's worth a buy. You'll be able to flog the SC stuff for good money.

Not sure about the issues stated with Rubicon selling it though.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

Yeah was think to do that, but not sure what route to take, rebuild my engine to a turbo spec and then get all the gubbins to go with it or just buy a complete unit and drop that in my car?

More than likely the cheaper option would be the route I will take.

Build your own unless you know the history of what you are getting.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

That may be the best option, atleast I know what I will working with, but still will keep a eye on the engine, as I still may get a good bargain, as worst case scenario I can rebuild it, and this way I will get all the turbo gubbins needed, hopefully!!!!

Build it yourself. I'd never buy a ready built engine now.

It's good fun too.

In the 13's at last!.. Just

+1 Build it yourself! you can go I built that ;]

That is very true, so if I am running a 1330cc engine at the moment, that has a stage 3 head, a 276 cam, 1.5 full rockers and a hiff44 carb, what is the best parts to buy to go turbo?

Sorry to bother you all again, but can some explain this dished piston thing with what cc I need, as thats where I get confused?

Sorry to sound like a novice in all this

Search, read, find out for yourself.

In the 13's at last!.. Just

if you search compression ratio mate you'll probably find out rough graphs to help you out. Also dish pistons are used to lower compression so that you can use more boost. Bit like having the head chambers enlarged.

If you know what cc the engine is and the size of the chambers in the head, you can then work out what size dished pistons will get you closest to your desired compression ratio.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Oh ok,
thank you for info on this, that is very helpful, cheers

http://turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=170151

i would beg to differ on some of those items

AFR Gauge not require unless self mapping
Boost controller of some description again really not needed unless you want road & pod set up
Dump valve not required, +10bhp i read somewhere though
Centre main strap if your getting the work done may as well but i wouldnt say its necessary
Turbo oil pump i read this is more advised than a requirement as i dont run a turbo one

and yes best source of info is the search function

Edited by t@z on 2nd Oct, 2012.

Cheers for the info guys.

t@z did you get my PM

AFR Gauge should always be use IMO, early indication of any problems, issues can and do arise after being mapped.
Boost controller, you need something to up the boost if you want it higher than the actuator no? especially to hit 150bhp.
Dump valve, your going to need more than 10psi for him wanting 150bhp
Centre main strap, could save a lot more money than it costs so why omit it.
Turbo oil pump, if your rebuilding the engine your going to want a new pump so might as well fit a turbo one for the £15 price differance.

Edited by Simon on 2nd Oct, 2012.

http://turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=170151

Simon cheers for all that info, now I just need to start buying all the parts.

Cheers again

The problem with setting it on the rolling road is that the car is static at the same atmospheric pressure with a big fan blowing through it. That is far from representative of all the factors you will find out on the road. Varying air temperatures and atmospheric pressures will effect the density of the air going in your engine, altering the amount of ignition advance you can run and the amount of fuel you need. If you don't have an AFR gauge, you don't know how that little lot is effecting your engine and how close you are to blowing it up. For what they cost, it's a no brainer.

The dump valve is there to help prevent compressor stall and help it spool up more quickly after gear changes etc. They greatly increase the life of your turbo.

different folks, different strokes

btw im not saying afr gauge isnt a good idea as im going to be getting one for when my car goes back on the road. but i was just adding some more detail to "what you need to get a tm running" as without being to anal you can get a turbo mini running ok to a rr; that was more my point.

whether a rr is realistic conditions; well thats a different topic

ps i love my compressor stall :)

You can probably get a turboed car to a RR, but an inexperienced person may not have such luck. Think back to Shane, he went through 3 engines trying to get to the rolling road...