Engine will not turn over by hand (no plugs fitted)
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi All,

I have just rebuild my metro turbo with new big ends and mains fitted, I put it all all on and checked the crank to see if it turned over by hand and it was fine. I now have bolted it to the gearbox and loosely placed the head on the top, So before bolting on the flywheel housing, I thought let me try and turn the engine by hand again. There is no movement at all from the crank, it seems like its seized.

I am totally baffled of what has caused this.

The only thing I can think of, is that it may be in gear, how can can you put in neutral, with any of the gear linkage fitted yet, as the lever only pull in and out?

Please can someone shed some light on this for me.

Thanks

Bobby

scrub that, mis read the post,

Edited by Joe C on 7th Feb, 2013.

you should be able to change gears and certainly find neautral by putting a screwdriver through the roll pin hole on the selector rod at the back of the gearbox and moving it. id depends what you mean the head is fitted loosley - you will struggle to turn an engine over by hand with the head on it.

I have just taken the head off now, checked that the gearbox is neutral, by fitting a gear linkage on and gear lever and made sure its in neutral. Still no joy

Did you have the cam cover and assembly on when you tried it the first time? Dizzy drive assembly?

Yeah the cam cover, timing chain and timing chain cover are on

Have you been ale to turn it over since fitting the timing gear ?

WWW.TURBO-MINI.COM

No I cannot since the timing gear is on, I have not fitted the flywheel housing, so no clutch or pressure plate fitted

Have you by any chance fitted a duplex timing chain ? If so did you fit the countersunk bolts ?

WWW.TURBO-MINI.COM

I have fitted a duplex chain, when you. countersunk bolts? Where do you mean?

I fitted the standard stuff that was on.the simplex chain

There's your problem then.
There are a couple of things you need to do:

1. Remove the bump inside the timing cover, by flattening it.
2, Countersink the engine front plate where the 2 off 1/4" UNF bolts are fitted and change these bolts to 1/4" UNF x 5/8" long socket head countersunk screws.

Phil.

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Thanks a lot Phil, I will do this and get it rectified, I owe you a few beer tokens

Cheers again

Bobby

Also - not being funny - but countersink the holes in the metal plate.

The person who built this engine I bought ages ago had used the correct bolts but hadn't countersunk the holes

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

Non spacer drum brake screws or cut down spacer drum brake screws also do the job

thanks a lot guys the picture really helps, do I need to the same for the camshaft bolts

No

excellent cheers guys

You also need to threadlock the countersunk screws in place to stop them working loose.

Rod has that engine pictured been on the bottom of the sea??

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

Thanks a lot Tom, Phil stated I need to remove the bump in the timing cover as well, does anyone have a pic of this, that I can visually see?

Bray this (from the inside) with a hammer so its flat

Edited by MikeRace on 8th Feb, 2013.

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

Reight Bray up!!!!!!

Excellent that is great, thanks again for the advise guys

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???