pre verto clutch shit.
Turbo Mini Forums

So i finaly got my hands on a clubman... now i got the thing running again but can't shift. Pre verto ( the older type) When i puch the clutch down the thing doesn't open the clutch. I can pump the clutch a few times than it starts to fzel like pushing down on a brick. When i do this the lever stays on the floor for a few seconds before popping back up. Now i thinck i know the answer... ( no bearing inside the clutch housing to puch against the clutchplate ) but just to be sure thereare other things to check fitst before i rip her guts open i want to ask here. ( hope its a bit understandable what i wrote)

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

Removed flywheel house.. looks normal to me

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

Try put pick up here

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

Glad it all looks ok.
But that add's to the confusion....

Freaker

Clutch plate off center ?

Freaker

Hydraulics? If it starts to work once you've pumped the clutch a bit, then it probably needs new fluid.

When i pump the clutch it becomes hard like stonebut i still ccan't get it in gear. Pics won't upload try to set a link later just removed the triangular plate on the flywheel. Its only the second non verto i ever seen but still nothing wron to what i see. Does look rusty inside ( engine stood for 2 years)

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

Something stuck in the arm system, read an articel in mini magazine, that the arm could be an issue. Worn and such sorts.... Will bring it with me

Freaker

Edited by freaker on 15th Mar, 2014.

The pump works. But i could pull the leaver far enough so the pump was at the end of its travel if you get what i mean.. would it be worth getting the flywheel of to look further so i can look at the clutch plates? I don't really get how the clutch works neither. .. the only thing that bearing does is puching against that diagram. And so against the flywheel... you can't move the flywheel sideways right? So how does it open the clutch plates?

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

If the pedal is sticking down or the arm is staying down, i'd be tempted to test the hydraulics first.

If the clutch arm stays out, i'd open the bleed screw on the slave. If it returns immediately, the issue is with the hydraulics.

But if its fully out shouldn't it be able to select gears?

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

Yes, you are correct, it should. Has the car been sitting for a while? The clutch plate could be stuck to the flywheel if it has and could give these symptoms

Friction plate may be stuck to the primary gear or to the flywheel/back plate.

Does it run? If so, start it in first gear with the clutch down to try and free it.

may be worth trying. would it be easy-er to get the flywheel off and check it since i already removed the housing?

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

Stack up of wear tolerance causing slave cylinder to bottom out on circlip resulting in reduced throw out.

Check....

Arm ball for wear
Plunger socket for wear
Arm clevis pin for wear
Push rod clevis pin for wear
Push rod eye for wear
Diaphragm thrust plate for wear
Master cylinder clevis for wear
Master cylinder clevis pin for wear............

Replace the lot!

And of course bleed all air from hydraulics/ replace fluid

all checked. what plays in my head the most is that i could pull the leaver arm so far away from the engine like it was forever by the time the bearing touched the diagram. the big adjustment nuts wore at the end of the plunger and jet almost sat against the flywheel housing and the pump couldnt go much further once the return adjustments wore set...

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

Simple maths.

you just have to look at the clutch arm to see that the lever ratio is quite large. I'm not sure what it actually is, but for example sake, lets say it is 10:1. That is to say, the slave cylinder will have to move 20mm for 2mm throw out required.

Look at it from a wear point of view, 0.5mm wear on the throw out bearing and thrust plate, 0.5mm wear in the ball and socket, 0.5mm wear in the arm clevis pin is the same as 15mm at the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder rarely has enough travel to take up this much wear, and the slave bottoms out on the circlip.

Have you tried extending the push rod?

Mhm. That's true. No not extended it yet because the big lock nuts where at the end of the travel. Guess renewing all the stuff would be worth the guess.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

Clarity.

When you push your foot down, does the slave cylinder actually move the rod ?

And does the rod actually move the arm ?

And does the lower pivot actually move the release bearing bit an appropriate amount ?

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

yes everything moves

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

sounds like the firciton plate may be stuck or something this seams the most common thing for a car thats sat for years and whont get gears from my litle expericnce

as said above try get first gear engine off then start it in gear providing you have space to drive forwad rather than threw your shead wall

should then beable to push the clutch and power on power off jurking the car back n forth to free it not grate for the thing but it worked for me on a vw beetle haha

yes everything moves but as i said i could pull the leaver so far away by hand so by the time the bearing was out of free play the slave cylinder was at the end of its travel. but the slave cylinder moves all the way in and out yes. i tought about spacing the bearing out like 5 mm or so. on that way it would sit much closer to the spring inside and so engage sooner.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

bent arm?

Has the ball snapped off the arm?

Arm is straight and bal is still on. Probably better to disassemble the whole thing replace some parts and see what happens i guess

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018