Clutch return spring preverto
Turbo Mini Forums

Guys this is a proper silly question but I think I have the clutch return spring in tue wrong place.

Does it go on the bleed nipple or on the bit the hose attaches to, I have the proper plate it connects to but have attached it by the hose as when I put it on the bleed nipple it wasn't a tight fit or anything?

Little bit of wisdom please :) as with the car in gear the wheels turn but the engine doesn't turn over so to me that says the clutch isn't engaging.

It may be worth mentioning that I haven't yet put new clutch fluid in or bled it so the whole system is dry.

Any help would be greatly appreciated :)

Thanks!

On the bleednipple..
There should be an extra oval shape piece of metal with small hole and large hole.
Remove bleed nipple and slide oval piece over bleed niple and replace bleed niple..

Adjusting the arm/clutch will help..
Small bolt and locknut on the clutch housing.. so you can adjust the arm travel/clutch working..

Spring should be a bit tight.. under tension. Not to much..
Sure you've got the correct one?

Hope my shitty english is clear enough..

It's a little car .... eating big money

Yeah I went to Somerford mini yesterday and bought the oval tab, spring cylinder and hose, will move it to the bleed nipple tomorrow

Thanks for your help mate :)

throw it away.

Agree with Andy, it doesn't really do fuck all, that's what the spring in the diaphragm is for, to return the clutch lol.

Best thing you can do is throw it away, or instead put it between the inner winf and the arm to make the clutchj self-adjusting and remove any need for the throw-out stop.

Td, wont that hold the bearing on the clutch all of the time?

i thought the idea of the spring was to save the bearing?

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

Errm so why isnt my clutch engaging then if I don't need the spring?!

Something isn't installed correctly, clutch plate in the wrong way maybe?

Does it matter that theres no clutch fluid in atm?

I really hope that isnt the case mate - clutch was already installed when I got the engine

It should be engaged with no fluid in. I'd pull the clutch to check, it's an easy mistake to make, done it myself once haha

Ffs that means I gotta pull the engine again, I've just put that fucker in. Need it running and mot'd this next week if I'm going to make l2b :( will give it a proper look tomorrow

Cheers for the help

You cannot install the clutch plate the wrong way round. If you did manage, it would be engaged all the time, and would not disengage.

I've seen assembly of the diaphragm spring such that its bolted to the flywheel and not the backplate lol, that might cause a non engaged clutch

Just undo all the mounts and steadies on the clutch side and jack that end of the engine up using a thin plank of wood under that side of the box, much easier with no inner wing but I still find it quicker than taking a running engine out.

I didn't install the clutch myself, I know the engine was built by Rob Walker and it was running fine and used before, albeit 10 year ago

I you trying to operate with your hand? If so you won't shift it. You'll need a long bar on the arm. Get some fluid in it and try it with the pedal.

Just had a thought I took the wok cover off when I was checking to see if it had a lightened flywheel:




Does that help answer any questions? Only picture I have with the wok cover off

That part looks okay to me, but you can't really see if something behind it is wrong.

no clutch plate?
to thick of spacers under the pressure plate?
lack of primary, idle, input gear?


not sure how you get a lack of clutch engagement?

Put some fluid in it and try it!

Dave do you recommend to remove the spring between arm and slave cyl and relay on the pressure plate to push the hydraulics back once your foot is off the pedal?

if so id think the flat type bearing is the one to use as there is a lot more contact surface area see pics massive difference in contact area note pre verto

possibly a tapered bearing to?

http://minisport.com.au/mini-thrust-bearin...-skf-made-in-uk

http://minisport.com.au/mini-thrust-bearing

That "thrust" bearing has been NLA for longer than I can recall. It's use on a road car would be limited by the fact it wasn't even sheilded. that is an invirte to all kinds of issues as the dusty air turns the grease into a grinding paste.


I don't know what you mean by relay?


The key is to make hydraulics perform the self-adjusting apect that they perform brilliantly without even trying. The spring in the master takes up the slack between the pedal and the master piston, and a spring on the arm (or in the slave) takes up the slack between the thrust beating and the slave cyl seal...
Simple as can be.

Edited by turbodave16v on 5th May, 2014.

didnt know the flat type had no seals lol wonder if something could be put in place to sort the dust issue?

so u disregard the ajuster stop bolt and nut as well as the slave spring to the arm and blead niple?
not sure i understand?