trigger wheel pictures needed
Turbo Mini Forums

Hey guys. My uber long project will hopefully be getting spark later in the year. Was wondering how to attach the mechanical components of 3d ignition.
Any pictures would be helpful too.
Thanks as always

Matt

BHP sells engines, but Torque wins races!

Classic%20Wheel by smithsonmorris, on Flickr

On 5th Oct, 2014 Shauna said:
What that's crazy, you go commando hahaha! How heavy is your helmet ?

Hahahahahaahaha!!

Bahahahaahh!

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

Bahahahahaha

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

Genius!!

I guess if you have to explain the joke to me it's not going to work anyway!

Trust you olly. Ha ha
But seriously anyone have a picture or can explain it

BHP sells engines, but Torque wins races!

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

Here are pictures of what I have done. The vehicle is a Frogeye, so the engine is oriented correctly with respect to the chassis. This may make it easier for you or not.

The Wheel started as a Trigger-Wheels.com 6.75" 36-1 wheel with .5" hole. My machinist increased the hole and machined a slight step in the engine side to slip over the damper ( just the rigid part, not all the way onto the part that is isolated by the rubber) and also drilled and countersunk the holes for the bolts holding the wheel to the crank. He also machined an aluminum (aluminium) spacer to fill the central void behind the wheel. Some of this was necessitated by the minimal clearance between the damper and the front cross member.
The damper is a MiniSpares Cooper S style.
The sensors are hall type from DIY Autotune. They are mounted on the front of the timing cover with home made brackets made from .375 aluminum. The cam sensor reads a small bolt set into the cam gear.
The cam drive is a MiniSpares adjustable (via dowel pin) and I have wasted more time than I want to admit making it possible to remove the cam end of the cover so the cam can be adjusted without removing the damper. The blue silicone is just my feeble attempt to add more strain relief to the leads.

At this point I am unable to add pictures, however; any one who wants to can email me and I will share a Dropbox folder with them. Later today or tomorrow, or sometime soon I will get a flicker acct and up load the pictures to it.

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Here's mine bolts to the inside of the crank pulley



It's then held in place at the correct position with a dowel pin

Dave the Cake

Do you have a trigger wheel already? are you on a budget?

To save a lot of faff the Specialist components or KAD kits are good. If you're handy making brackets then the Triggerwheels.com website has a mini specific one. Similar to above.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

Don't have one yet, thought I'd do my research first

BHP sells engines, but Torque wins races!

Mine,



Standard 1275 damper pulley with the back face machined ever so slightly to give a small locating ridge then a generic trigger (ring type) wheel located on that ridge, held in place with three allen bolts.
Sensor bracket home made and spot welded to timing chain cover.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

I'm now using the flywheel

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

or get a plain verto back and mill some blind holes in it.

Piece of piss to modify an SPi flywheel for megajolt, Like I did for one of the girls at our club

And some of the Mini 7 lot are using these

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Edited by Sprocket on 7th Jun, 2014.

Paul S. said:
Technically the flywheel is a far better place to read accurate timing signals compared to a damped pully the other end but I would guess it's out of the question for 90% of people on this forum.

With all due respect to Paul, I fail to see why the front of the crankshaft (#1 cyl) would be less desirable for the trigger wheel than the flywheel: PROVIDED that you mount to the pulley NOT the damped portion of the damper. The front has one major advantage in that it is more accessible than the flywheel. If you mount the trigger wheel on the damped portion then all best are off.

Hal

http://www.jbperf.com/

OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOPS. Well then all due respect to Rod.
Hal

id say farther out from the center line is better i say this as the distance between teeh is grater for the same angle if you follow me?

as in the bigger the triger wheel the grater acresy it will have also the same apls to number of teerh a big wheel with lots of teeth is better than a small one with less teeth

all be it harder to do the flywheel option for most in cluding my self choseing the std aproch of damper pully 36-1 wheel

at the end of the day it still works right?

Edited by Rod S on 8th Jun, 2014.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

The flywheel end doesnt 'vibrate'anywhere near as much as the other end.

The crank tends to flex more the further away from the flywheel you go.

Seeing as I am getting some of the blame, I'll contribute :)

You get at least twice the error due to torsional vibration at the flywheel end due to the radius.

Or do you ?

Edited by Paul S on 8th Jun, 2014.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."