Phase 2 cam power band??
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi Iv just got my mini running after doing a full engine and gearbox rebuild, Iv also upgraded my cam to a Avonbar phase 2,Iv set it 108 degrees set ignition timing etc,but it doesn't pull smooth till 2000rpm then is ok, if I try to give it more throttle it try's to cut out and pops n bangs, is this the trade off with these cams?

Never used one but purely based on the numbers (PH2 turbo right?) I would expect it to pull from idle ( maybe a bit lumpy). short duration high lift cam with very little overlap.

I'd first check if the spark and fueling are not iffy.

That sir, is not rust, it is the progressive mass reduction system

http://aseriesmodifications.wordpress.com/

pops and bangs when off cam and full throttle is not the cams fault its down to fueling and timing,
the P2 cam is not a wild cam by any means so look at the fueling imo,
pull the choke out and give it a little stick, if the pops go away or turns into bogging down you know you need more fuel,

if this is the case, get some one who knows what there doing to tune it up , because imo these are basic tuning symptoms

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

That ph2 cam. Is it in a na engine or turbo?
Just out of intrest because i have a ph 2 or ph 3 turbo in my shelf for years ( so long ago i can't remember if its ph 2 or 3) but can't fibd specs of it so never used it.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

It's turbo engine, it was running nice before I rebuilt it to upgrade gearbox and ca but ended up putting omega 10 cc Pistons in, do you think completion could be to low , chambers are 27 cc

What is the CR?

Sounds like you just need it setting up to me. Pretty simple really.

What ignition system are you using?

I'm just using metro dizzy for now, it was making 134 bhp on 10psi before I rebuild it, carnt remember compression ratio think it was 9.1 before that was with spi cooper Pistons now has 10cc omegas.i just want to get it something like before having it rolling road,ed

Mine WHEN cold doesnt like pulling away at all, kinda have to do a double pull away until its warm, after that its a dream.. sounded a bit like yours but not as far as popping and banging

Don't fuck about. If its together enough that it is oil and water tight and will move under its own steam, then get it to the rollers and have it set up.

It's definitely not the cam. Mine will idle at 800rpm with a phase 2.

Get it on the rollers before you need to replace the Pistons again.

In the 13's at last!.. Just

I will get it to a rolling road , Iv only had it running to bed the cam in and drove about 5 miles to check gears and rts clutch worked.it idles fine and revs ok in neutral.just setting off need 2k or it Boggs down.

Edited by fixitphil2 on 21st Mar, 2016.

I live in hornsea and i use john sleath in conisbrough, he certainly knows his stuff.

I am booked in to go next month with my rebuilt motor using the new ultimate ph3 cam . It will be interesting to see the difference between the ph2 which i used to run and the new one.

That will be very interesting Burcy please wright up your findings.
I take it it's avonbar phase 3 you have now?

Edited by JT on 9th Jul, 2017.

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

Ok cheers il look him up,did you take spare needles and springs for carb or do they have bits in?

Its a good idea to take a spare needle. My needle looks like a needle but fueling was spot on at 13psi (172hp). I have opened up the jet to 2.8mm and put a standard turbo needle in as a start again when i get back on the rollers, and i hope to take it up to maybe 15psi.

Jt. I was running the avonbar ph2 cam which dont get me wrong was great but i had to strip the motor to deal with an anoying oil leak so i thought it would be a good time to try this new cam. Ian from avonbar is listing it as the ultimate ph3 cam which shouldnt be confused with the original ph3 cam which wasnt a road friendly cam.

Iv got an old rr print out of mine just before I stripped it its rich up till 3000rpm, Iv not touched carb so will be same fuelling but maybe standard cam didn't mind as much so didn't Bogg down??

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Have you got a wideband fitted? 13.5 afr at 4000rpm, when presumably you had full boost, is too lean.

You really shouldnt just drive it without having it properly setup on a rolling road.

Why spend all that money to not bother getting the power out the engine and risk destroying it?

Edited by jonny f on 22nd Mar, 2016.

Are you not concerned at all? Did the rolling road operator offer an opinion? I'm surprised that having seen that you have just pressed on with a rebuild and driving it. Being oblivious to the hints the running engine is giving you, is going to end in tears. Not having a wideband fitted is just a false economy these days. They are a lot cheaper than rebuilding the engine again. The turbo dizzy is another false economy.

I don't wish to appear rude, but I think you need to do some research into turboing the A series. All the info you could ever wish for is in this forum, and it will save you blowing a hole in those lovely new pistons. Fit a wideband and some form of mapped ignition, and you can get it running pretty sweet on your own. Failing that, get it on a trailer to a rolling road that understands the engine and a carb.

Is this the right one

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that's what I've got

Iv bought it , carnt have you lot telling me off, the lambs hole on mine is about 6 " from turbo is that ok or will it get to hot?

Any point after the turbo is fine - A couple inches to a couple feet is normal. Check that you don't have any manifold leaks upstream (or shortly after) to get an accurate reading.

Edited by PhilR on 22nd Mar, 2016.