Electric Water Pumps
Turbo Mini Forums

I'm currently reconsidering fitting my Craig Davies water pump and controller.

I bought the kit to maximise every bhp on the drag strip, as I was planning on 8000rpm from a 1293. Since going down the 1460cv route with plenty of power, I'm thinking of going back to the mechanical pump as it looks better and more minimalistic.

The electric kit adds weight, but more so the complexity means another thing that could go wrong on a trackday.

As anybody had any experience. I'm reading mixed reviews.

Class C 3rd Place Avon 2011 14.18 @101mph

i have run one for about a year with no problems as of yet. It does control the temp very well, i am going to fit a front mounted rad in the new year because on track the side mount struggles to keep the temps down. I have fitted the pump in my wheel arch just under the head light. (clubman front)

I've thought about this before. Do you really stop power losses? I can't quite get my head round it! if the electric pump draws current then surely the alternator must have to kick in to provide it (PLUS losses.) I can only see a gain if you isolate the alternator or don't run one at all. Fine for drag and hillclimb but I ruled it out as I'd like to have the option to do circuit stuff aswell.

Exactly my point really.

I think I concluded from my previous research I would gain 4bhp over a standard pump with a normal 1275 sized pulley at 7500rpm.

However with the lightweight Minispares pump and 4.7" larger pulley that could be as low as 2-3bhp.

The pump only pulls 8amp, but how many bhp does the alternator draw.

I know KAD publish some data showing big big gains on the dyno at huge rpms.

Class C 3rd Place Avon 2011 14.18 @101mph

http://www.kentautodevelopments.com/blog/a...ing-the-results

20bhp, surely the fan makes the biggest difference.

Class C 3rd Place Avon 2011 14.18 @101mph

ok, if the pump pulls 8A at 14.7v thats 125W, which is about 0.16HP, so if we assume some loses from the alt to pump call it 1/4 hp in drive power?

How reliable are standard water pumps these days at 8k ??

The fan has got to play the most part of that I would of thought.

I just like being able to keep the pump running once ive turned the engine off to keep cooling it down as it gets hotter once off .

My main problem is lack of space, low down between the radiator bottom hose and the water pump blanking plate.

It was fine, but the new belt drive and sensor are now in the way.

I'm not sure how effective the pump will be above the wok. It clearly states the mount the pump as low as possible. Plus it just doesn't look right.

Class C 3rd Place Avon 2011 14.18 @101mph

Im watching this thread with interest as i have similar questions.. the front mount electric set up fills the engine bay, god knows what its like once you've got an electric fan on there too.

If you stuck with electric pump how about some sort of alternator controller that stops it charging when throttle is wide open (perhaps using and output from ECU based on TPS )? Pump then pulls off battery when you are on full tilt then charges on overrun/part throttle?

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

well assuming my calcs are anything like right, its not worth farting around with Alt cutoffs adn risking alternator damage IMO.

also in terms of fan vs water pump power usage, i belive we managed to decide once before that Kads figures sounded inflated for some reason, maybe the engine was down on power with the fan on for another reason?

anyway, I seem to remember a statment that water is 800 times more dense than air, so despite the pump being smaller than the fan the rrequire power could be similar, or even more for the pump...


the main problem IMO is that the available electric pumps are a shape that does not lend themselves to intsalation on the mini,

I guess the main problem with the mechanical pump is that it's nearly always operating outside its most efficient speed range where as electric is always bang on.

I wanted to fit the bigger pulley to mine but couldn't because of the oil drain out of the khead so that compounds the problem.

Yep, you need it spinning enough at idle, and once past about 3k your just wasting energy....

You could fit a switch on the throttle pedal or have an output from the megajolt, so when you are on full throttle it cuts the alt, anything less than say 95% throttle it still charges.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Is that possible without killing it tho? I was under the impression not..

Edited by slater on 6th Dec, 2016.

Just on a sidenote does anyone know the function of the 'auxiliary water pump' on mk7 golfs. I dont know if 'auxiliary' means its designed to work alongside a mechanical pump? or its actually only designed to feed the heater in the car? I only ask as they're electric, and can be had for as little as £50, no doubt you could control it though the ecu rather than a separate controller.

Id stick with the Leccy Pump and just make it fit mate. Your overthinking it pal.

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

I will have a try with this one, guess i have to get a bigger one if it´s tend to be useless.
Johnson cm30 pump, about 26l a minute by memory. no controller. Only concern if i should keep my thermostat with some drilled holes, or just blank it and maybe some kind of restrictor to keep some pressure up? (N/A swift engine, front mounted rad)

leccy by G13B, on Flickr

internationally known as "big" swede

I guess the water pump restricts the engine position with the G13? On the micra twincam engines the pump is very close to the tower mounts.

Class C 3rd Place Avon 2011 14.18 @101mph

Finally decided to keep it, and see how it goes. Managed to find a suitable location that's not to high.

Class C 3rd Place Avon 2011 14.18 @101mph

i run this tiny pump flat out with no controller and dont have any issue. think its about 17l per minute
https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/bosch-...ter-pump-ewp004

Have also removed the alternator but havent been back to the RR to see what difference it has made. biggest benefit for me was being able to run the pump post shut down to keep the water circulating

Looks much better there. Might try one of those smaller ones and see what difference it makes.

Craig David pump looks good there Matt

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

The pump looks good there should be fine.
I would change the cork gasket to a paper one at the thermostat housing, I had two fail on my engine, one in a middle of a rally not very nice.
John

internationally known as "big" swede