Linners
Turbo Mini Forums

Linned or non-linned blocks. what do you think???

Its only a bit of metal. If it blows it blows!

http://www.putfile.com/mini300bhp

suck it and see, to many theories not put to the test on this subject in the past i feel.

i would use them, they are harder than a iron bore so more durable.

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas

many machine places wont build you a turbo engine based on a linered block.

Alex

AlexF

Agree with TD. I am using a linered block, after 80k in the metro I pulled it from it showed no substantial signs of wear when measured.

boring block to 1380 is slightly to big for the a series liners so im told as the od is about 72.8 or 73 mm cant remember which.

but like td and tom go for it i cant see a problem.

you only no when a theory has been put into practice and you have seen the end result to come to a conclusion to wehter or not it works, if you get my drift.

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas

I THINK that MED do some liners that are 74.7mm.

Edited by Vegard on 4th Nov, 2005.

Ive heard some nasty stuff about them, falling out, cracking and overheating pistons to name a few. Maybe only myths, but I do know linners were only origanally fitted to rectify a bodge!

Its only a bit of metal. If it blows it blows!

http://www.putfile.com/mini300bhp

Where did you hear these stories???

If you're going to listen to stories from folks who heard it off someone else, who saw or maybe read it somewhere, you won't get very far in your mini!

Just ask yourself the following:
1) Why would they 'fall out'?
2) Why would they crack?
3) why would they overheat pistons?

The last one alone is complete crap. Pistons 'lose' their heat into the liner - so why would that make pistons overheat??? Then again - a badly set up enging would do damage that to an amateaur would look like 'overheating'...

Edited by turbodave16v on 3rd Nov, 2005.

I da know?? Just having troubles finding a good non-linned block, so thought id ask your thoughts on linned ones.

Anyone had any bad things happen to linned blocks?

Its only a bit of metal. If it blows it blows!

http://www.putfile.com/mini300bhp

You won't have any problems. There, I said it.

Crack on and build it!

pistons transfer their heat into the bore...

liners are not as good as transfering heat as a standard block...


There's one possible reason!

Alex

AlexF

I think you guys are confusing linned and linnen.
I've heard som horror stories about linnen blocks.

Blocks with liners on the other hand are good as gold until proven otherwise. I do still not understand why these would transfer heat any worse Alex. They're press fit dry liners.... Just like any other modern engine.

They are different metals... different heat transfer coeff's. The connection between the metals is not on the molecular level.

Put it this way... Cosworth YB engines with liners are not suitable for tuning in most engine builders/tuners/mappers eyes.

The process many modern engines use is not to run liners int he block at all!

Alex

AlexF

Oh jesus Alex, go and actually study thermodynamics and the actual difference in heat transfer co-efficients before opening your mouth.

There is so little difference between metals, that if fitting liners makes this happen, then you were too close to the edge anyway.
And as for the molecular level - once again, two metals contacting each other might not be on a 'molecular lever' (i'd call it a contact fit, but that's just me) but how much heat do you want to pass through here?

And whilst we're on about 'fits' how does the piston lose its heat - oh, yes - it's not even a contact fit, but a clearance fit in the bore itself.

The skirt is also only, what, 1.5" high - the sleeve is, what 10" tall. So the piston to liner at any one time has (a loose fit) 1.5" x 2.8"diameter area to dissipate its heat.

The sleeve however, has a 10" x 2.9" diameter area, with a dry contact fit, to transfer heat into the block.


And to be honest - I couldn't give a flying fook what some engine builders think... To be an engine builder doesn't mean you've spent 4+ years at university working towards a degree where you study mateials, thermodynamics and other subjects - aswell as educating your mind to think laterally. All it means is you've possibly had a good apprentiship, a good teacher / mentor, but mostly you've been building engines, and have got pretty good at what you've done through experience. It doesn't make you a metalurgist however.

I don't know what to think now!!!

Its only a bit of metal. If it blows it blows!

http://www.putfile.com/mini300bhp

You're being funny right???

I'll leave you to it then guys.

Alex

AlexF

"If you find yourself with a 1982 transverse 'A+' block, chances are it's linered because of boring problems at the factory. These blocks are okay at standard and ordinary +20 or +40 overbores, and they are okay for moderate performance applications, but I don't advise their use in all-out race engines." From Vizard book.

Its only a bit of metal. If it blows it blows!

http://www.putfile.com/mini300bhp

Or does he mean only for larger overbores?

Its only a bit of metal. If it blows it blows!

http://www.putfile.com/mini300bhp

I saw a bit on ford cvh engines the other day,apparantly they have problems with the 1.9 conversion due to liners being bored out and ending up to thin and distorting.

Metro turbo weekend driver,Mini turbo in the making again!

thats why its only advisable to go +20 when using liners.

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas

How about pre A+ blocks?
is it a myth that they're made from better material and the strengthening ribs are just there to make up for this?

Can I dig this one out of the depths of TM. (Sorry Vegard).

Who has actually been using a linered block (since this thread or otherwise)?

Has there been any conclusions made on any of the above theory, through experiences with linered blocks?

In the 13's at last!.. Just

I'll soon find out