Wiped center main bearing
Turbo Mini Forums

I use those uprated minispares ones that have the counter sink in the washers. been very happy with them.

http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=...T%20SET(STUDS...

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

Do they sell them individualy?

No use to me then :(

Are they standard length studs?

I've probably got one kicking round if you want me to send it.

They are the standard long studs shortened 5mm. Thanks for the offer, but I have another 998 doner I can rob one from It was just the last straw for tonight. After all the other setbacks, I started to enjoy it again, then the stud breaks.

Engine's in, runs, with no leaks, or transfer gear rattle.

Oil pressure at idle 35psi, I think that is what the oil jets are set at, and higher rpm, the needle flutters only a little, but you can see the pressure regulating valve operate at around 90psi dropping to 80psi.

everything looks promising

Tomorrow, time for testing under load

Edited by Sprocket on 12th Jun, 2009.

Oh and if all this wasn't the end of it, I have to change the head gasket as its one of those dodgey ones :(

hope all goes to plan this time.

Team www.sheepspeed.com Racing

hope all goes to plan this time.

Team www.sheepspeed.com Racing

impatient to see dyno result, finger crossed, hope the bad his behind.

best of look

that's a quick way to adjust cams, you'll be lucky if it does work, seen how you've been previously not sure I'll reproduce it , .

Fab

On 12th Jun, 2009 Sprocket said:



However, it made 107bhp out of the box before christmas, and 104 after christmas with a change of inlet cam, clearly some tweeking of the cam timing needed.

When I built it up this time, I set the cam timing up by eye, in the sence that I marked the crank pulley with 102 and 106 degree marks on inlet and exhaust, and have a true tdc pointer. I just set the crank to the 106 mark, and turned the cam to the center of full lift by eye Its not perfic, but its hell alot quicker to set up These engine seem to run with 102 to 110 timing so if its in the middle of those, it will work, how well is yet to be seen

Well it runs and very well too.

The oil pressure fluctuation is no where near as bad, but it still concernes me. Im going to move the feed to the gauge, from the head to the engine and see if that makes a difference. There are also two oil holes that squirt oil up from the front cam bearing caps to lubricate what was the drive chain, Im going to plug them up as well.

The pulsation and fluctuation of the oil pressure is now only 10psi and gets better with revs. anything above 4k the needle is rock solid.

Im not sure the pulstaion of pressure is the oil filter is draining down, and there is an air pocket in it, or its the oil feeding the cam holes.

Its a strange one, but its no where near as bad as it used to be.

do you have a ball bearing oil relife valve?

if so they seem to cause this when they just go over the letof pressure, i think the ball jiggles about.

I made a copy of the avonbar setup (cup to go behnd the ball to stabalize it) seemed to make quite q diference.

now you're talking about this,
I built a 1380 there some time, the guy hadn't make that much kilometers, and the center main was shot, ( I put this to bad oil service, but didn't understood really what's happened I then rebuilt it to be fair), when I took the ball relief valve of, it was really highly marked (I kept it ,will look for and make a pic.) I just changed it for the std relief valve. now all's right (same engine/cam/head/guy combo).

its the ball

New bullit and spring it is then

Edited by Sprocket on 14th Jun, 2009.

I would get rid of the Ball Colin I had this in two race engines it ended up causing a crank failure IMO all my race motors now run the bullet with tje bullet hole opened up 0.5mm and 3 longitudinal groves to alow any shit escape.

Fitted a standard bullet and spring today and the oil pressure gauge needle is rock solid steady, peaks at 60 psi though. Maybe a washer or two will up that a little

no need for higher pressure than that is there Colin :)

I run 50Psi colin for 2years gear changes at 7700rpm as yet no problams.

I was only looking to get it ou to 70 - 75psi

I still have a hawk eye on that gauge though

Interestingly, oil temps never get much above coolant temps, the more I watch it, especialy when driving along, so all that crap about oil temps being low is bad for the engine is bollox, I have no oil cooler.

Too low oil temps is bad for the engine.

I trashed my Mini on the track this weekend, oil temps never reached 70degrees without oil cooler. Oil Cooler is not needed it seems.
I need to heat my oil in some way...