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Home > General Chat > Gauging interest in gt17 downpipes

hazpalmer

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Carlisle, Cumbria

I'm back on the 5th Matty if your still needing someone to trial fir


Nick warwick

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537 Posts
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Sheffield

Doesnt fit matt :(



Fouls the rear of the subframe stopping me from getting it on the head studs



jamiestevenbell

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Derby

Would it slide back on the head studs at that without the down pipe clashing on the block


apbellamy

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King Gaycharger, butt plug dealer, Sheldon Cooper and a BAC but generally a niceish fella if you dont mind a northerner

Rotherham, South Yorkshire

Will the pip not rotate towards the engine a bit to clear the frame?

On 11th Feb, 2015 robert said:
i tried putting soap on it , and heating it to brown , then slathered my new lube on it

*hehe!*


John

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Mongo

Barnsley, South Flatcapshire

I'd fit manifold first and downpipe after.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.


Nick warwick

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Sheffield

Got it to fit but only by cutting the top of the lip on the subframe off, it now fouls the bit that goes around the steering rack and pot joint.


Nick warwick

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Sheffield

Before



After now hits the bump below the lip for the steering rack


matty

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Turbo Love Palace Fool

Aylesbury

Ah bugger, exactly why I wanted to try it on a standard setup.

Yeah I have relieved my subframe, exactly where you have. Where abouts is it fowling the subframe? This is my subby, and has more clearance where the downpipe goes past the subby. What kind of tie bar have you got? Adjustable or standard?

Edit: just seen you have n adjustable tie bar. What is the length between centres?



Edited by matty on 2nd Apr, 2014.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi


matty

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Turbo Love Palace Fool

Aylesbury

I've just measured where my engine is sat, and the distance between the centre of master cylinder stud to the centre of the engine steady bolt is 220mm. I've also modified my steady bar mount so comparing engine steady lengths won't be of any use. Lol



It looks like your engine is tilted more than mine, which will reduce the gap between the pot joint and subby. I may have to go with a reduced slip joint to 2" in between the first and second bend, at least that'll give more clearance, and allow people to lengthen/shorten the downpipe to suit the tilt of the engine and adjust ground clearance.

Edited by matty on 2nd Apr, 2014.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi


Nick warwick

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Sheffield

I haven't got the steady attached at the min mate so I can rock the engine.

I think I will whip the engine out this weekend and hammer the bit I need to cut flat maybe or cut it out and weld a plate back across to give its strength back.

I have to lean the engine forward to clear the actuator tab an turbo so hopefully it will clear the pot joint when all in position.

I have a video but it won't let me upload it!


1293 sprite

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Melton Mowbray

As mentioned I'd fit the manifold first, then play with the downpipe. Also you'd be better fitting the steady bar and adjusting it into position, so you know where the engine is going to sit. It's probably going to sit further back without the steady bar, giving less clearance.

On 25th Sep, 2009 mini13 said:
cool, i'll pop over with my tool and some lube, lol

1293 88.8hp 82.2ftlb

17.3 1/4 @ 78 mph

Naturally Aspirated (for now)


Nick warwick

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Sheffield

I think the quickest and easiest way to get around this would be to just reduce the pipe size as it goes past the subframe and pot joint. I have a friend who should be able to do this for me.

Saves me having to take the engine out to mod the subframe more.

What effects would the little reducer have do you think?


matty

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Turbo Love Palace Fool

Aylesbury

Can you not modify anything on it just yet, as I need to know where adjustments need to be made for future downpipes. I know most people will not want to modify subframes to get it to fit, so I need to adjust the downpipe to fit the subframe rather than the other way around.

Can you bolt up your tie bar at the same distance I have mine to see if it fits then? And see if there is enough room for the actuator to clear the bulkhead?

I was able to rotate the downpipe on mine so the horizontal part under the car was slightly pointing upwards, which means there was clearance above the pipe in the horizontal position.

The reducer shouldn't have any noticeable effect on performance to be honest, I'd just prefer to have the downpipe as one piece to reduce the chance of leaks, especially when people are running lambdas further down the pipe.

Edited by matty on 2nd Apr, 2014.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi


Nick warwick

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Sheffield

Will do mate, I'll update tomorrow night.


Nick warwick

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Sheffield

http://s51.photobucket.com/user/Chimaira7/...9619a8.mp4.html

Edited by Nick warwick on 3rd Apr, 2014.


theoneeyedlizard

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The Boom Boom speaker Police!

Essex

Fit the bloody manifold first! How many times.

In the 13's at last!.. Just


Nick warwick

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Sheffield

that was just a video from last night mate that it wouldn't let me upload haha


Nick warwick

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Sheffield

Fitted it again but couldn't do much for long as it was pissing it down.







Can't lean the engine to 220mm because the actuator tab hits the bulkhead but these photos were at roughly 225mm

Edited by Nick warwick on 3rd Apr, 2014.


t@z

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Chester, UK

wow thats tight!

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lee.pb

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Lancashire

Looking at the pictures, it looks like with the wastegate lever rotated to allow the actuator to be repostioned towards to clutch housing.

When trying to push the engine forward to 220mm as per Matty's, the wastegate arm is fouling on the bulk head at about 225mm.

On Matty mini this isnt an issue as he has a bulkhead box fitted and the actuator is positioned in its original location allowing more clearance and the subframe has been releived.

Below is a picture of the turbo fitted to my mini before i cut the turbo box in.
As you can see there will be less clearance when the wastegate arm is repositioned as per Nick's.

Edited by lee.pb on 4th Apr, 2014.

What the mind can conceive the mini can achieve
MITP 2012 17.01 seconds 1/4 mile against "The Don"
MITP 2013 16.83 seconds 1/4 mile


Nick warwick

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Sheffield

Yeah thats it Lee so once the downpipe is on it makes moving the engine impossible as actuator jab is jammed against the bulk head and the downpipe against the subframe and pot joint.

If the pipe diameter was smaller during this section or even a oval shape this would help greatly.


t@z

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Chester, UK

bit of manual labour and bash it?

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lee.pb

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Lancashire

I cant see me having any issues with the downpipe as i have now fitted a bulk head box and the actuator mounting bracket is still in its original location, allowing me to postion the engine at 220mm.

My subby may still require cutting though.


On 4th Apr, 2014 Nick warwick said:
Yeah thats it Lee so once the downpipe is on it makes moving the engine impossible as actuator jab is jammed against the bulk head and the downpipe against the subframe and pot joint.

If the pipe diameter was smaller during this section or even a oval shape this would help greatly.

What the mind can conceive the mini can achieve
MITP 2012 17.01 seconds 1/4 mile against "The Don"
MITP 2013 16.83 seconds 1/4 mile


Nick warwick

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Sheffield

No room to swing a hammer at the bulkhead with the engine in.

I think you would still have to cut the top lip off the subframe Lee like matt and i have.


lee.pb

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Lancashire

I've not got an issue with cutting the subby as need to remove it to fit the fuel lines and solid mounts.

But this doesnt help other members looking to use the manifold and down pipes.

What the mind can conceive the mini can achieve
MITP 2012 17.01 seconds 1/4 mile against "The Don"
MITP 2013 16.83 seconds 1/4 mile

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