Midget Turboing
Turbo Mini Forums

yes in the 1098 1964year one.

I'd have thought the getrag from the BMW E30 series would have been worth a look? I'm sure this is shorter than the sierra Type9 unit...

Edited by turbodave16v on 22nd Aug, 2004.

But I think it would cost more when the kit was being developed.

Of course if your doing it your self and can manufacture a bell housing then yes I think it could be done

This e30 box is that the same as from a 2002, 316 etc.? I have a few of those.
It is worth looking at.
boredpilot, I would really fancy some pics.

BTW how are the halfshafts keeping up?

Half shafts are fine. Ive finaly solved my low oil pressure. Ive take the oil feed from the metal pipe that goes to the filter and hay presto the oil pressure is back to normal, so looks like in a midget its not the best place to take the oil feed from the oil pressure gauge.

What do you want the photos off. If its gearbox ill start trawling the web and see if I can find some now. If its mine or simons turbo ill email them to you

http://www.the-wizardsden.com/html/sierra_gearbox.html
sierra box on a 1500 which is almost an identical job to when I did it to my 1275 bar obviosly the bellhousing which is slightly different

http://www.robsfrogs.org.uk/Glens%20%27K%2...es%20Midget.htm
sierra box fitted to a k-series if you go near the bottom you will see it not attached to the engine

If you then go through the releven pages on the top link you will see what I mean about cutting out the tunnel. On mine I also had reinforfing box section that I hammered into the ope ends each side and then bolted in place but could also be seam welded as you have the engine and gearbox out.

In fact ive just finished reading the top ones web site, he made the conversion him self, Top man.

Edited by boredpilot on 22nd Aug, 2004.

This is very usefull info, the sierra gearboxes sold around here are all 1.8 turbo diesel or 2.0 diesel, All look similar to the boxes shown in these links tho.
They want 50,00 euro for such box, so no problem there, but the conversionkit from bath costs 495,00 poundes excl. vat (howmany that will be?).
I would like to see yours and yours with turbo setup, what kind of BHP are you pulling?
The top man makes it sound so easy, makes me think about just buying a bellhousing from Bath.

well there are a few otherthing like you need to make a different way to do the clutch which is a pivot attached to the inside of the bellhousing which pivots the release bearing onto the clutch housing. Propshaft seems realy easy now ive seen how he did it. Speedo will need a different drive on the end from the midget one to fit in the sierra box. Ill have to go to my other MG for the seirra box to get some photos as its being rebuilt at the moment, but not at my place, perswaded someone else to do that one for me but engine and gearbox are in at the moment.

I can email you picks of my turbo, tell me how much space your email account has, and whats the email limit and ill make sure I dont go over your quota.

As to BHP have no idea. its a 1098 to start of with so not expecting as much as some could. + its a standard engine so only going to 7psi boost.

I would perhaps get, new clutch arm pivot, clutch release bearing, clutch plate as the inner spindal is different, spigot bush, bellhousing to make the job easier. The old clutch plate cover is the same just the plate thats different, dont no if that would save much though. Ill see if I can find the instuctions but it was some years back..

ok found the instructions for the 948-1275 ford conversion. Its all text but you will get the idea from it.

Ill scan and email them

I just got back from the internet, one of your links got me to some morris minor conversion kits, a lot cheeper than frontline in bath. Its somewhere near Birmingham, I have send them an e-mail. We wait and see. The most I want afterall is the bellhousing and the clutch.
i think I can receive someting as 2mb on my email, give it a shot. :cool:
Thanks mate, i have done my research now and shall buy such kit when I get back from my holidays.

Received your pic's, Is that you there with the gloves?
Its looking very nice, nice homemade plenum, yours has so much more space that mine. I have T-pieced the fuel return line in before the pump, how have you solved tis issue? I saw that you run the std tank.

Ive take the oil feed from the metal pipe that goes to the filter and hay presto the oil pressure is back to normal,

..

Isnt that oil un-filtered? and hence damn near fatal for the turbo?
No one on here has trounble t-piecing out the oil pressure gauge hole, mayb your t-piece is very restrictive?

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

The problem I was having was very low oil pressure. 5psi the other day. The T piece no matter how big or small wouldnt make a difference to pressure IIRC from my old physics days. I was wondering if there is something different from a midget A to a mini/metro A, ive been told that the compression is lower to start with and the crank is stronger but cannot find the proof to that effect. The T piece is still in place but ive blanked where I was taking off the turbo supply and the gauge is showing what im after so cannot be the T piece. Basically the oil went up pump straight to gauge line and straight to turbo hence no pressure.

Yes that me with the gloves on. My fuel return is the same as Simon Athertons dead easy, ill send you pics of his car, but basically we both have a hole cut in the filler pipe, a bit of copper pipe then placed into that and fuel is returned then down the filler neck and no damage to the fuel tank then. Oh no idea who the kid was, was at a friends helping him, he has kids and gets all the neighbours kids coming round to play with his son.

Oh heres Simons web site but ill email you the pics as there better quality
http://www.turbomidget.connectfree.co.uk/index.htm

Edited by boredpilot on 23rd Aug, 2004.

I know the man Simon, He's an offshoreworker or not? I had contact with him doing research on turboing a midget. It was maybe a year ago or so, before I came across turbominis site. Small world

Thats simon, he off coast of malaysia at the mo, not back in uk till around mid sep. Did you get the pics of simons midget

size of the hole wil directly affect the pressure drop acros it depending on the amount of oil the turbo consumes. Id stil find another solution to tapping that metal pipe as that oil is un-filtered, where as teh oil for the oil pressure gauge is filtered. (someone correct me if im wrong here...)

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

I had a T piece that was about 1mm in diameter, pressure is determined by a blockage shorly not by the size of pipe?. I proved this by linking my pressure gauge with a 1mm diameter pipe origannly then had a 3mm pipe on now and its the same pressure.

Ive gone and put a fuel filter in that line to put some filtering in. Need to check it allows a good enough flow though

I got the pics, Thanks mate. Malaysia? what does he do?

IIRC he is a specialist at finding oil, plate techtonics etc. I promise when I get hold of a scanner Ill get the 2 sides of A4 instructions on the gear box to you

I was not blameing your pipe as the restriction, only the t-piece! if it was incorrectly drilled (some are).

probably talking crap but this has jsut sprung into my head : - what if the reason your oil pressure is not droppign is that this inline-filter is to restrictive and is not alowing very much oil through... and nothing to do with the fact you are no longer takign a feed from the oil pressure outlet on the block. If you can check the oil pressure after the filter with the turbo on, this would show any pressure drop across the filter.

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

Evo Ill give you the full story.

When I did the conversion I origanally had a T piece in the oil pressure gauge line and my oil pressure went from resonable to immediatly 5psi at tick over once I put the turbo on(The oil was going straight to the turbo and killing my engine)

I then changed it to the big screw that goes through the banjo pipe and that brought the pressure back to something like normal, reason all the restrictions to build up pressure are back in place.

On your prompting, that was unfiltered I put in the fuel filter into the line, so far its made no change to the pressure, hasnt melted and is black so I know the turbo is getting oil visually. Of course I am going to test the otherside of the filter today just to check that it is still flowing good but I believe it is as Its full. (I gave it a gentle squeeze and it went clear with air and filled again) If this works then we all have an inline filter that costs me £2.5

if theT-piece would be restritive than the oil pressure would increase. Maybe if your turbo bearings are worn than you may loose to much oil pressure and get a lower reading and endanger your entire engine

IIRC A T piece wouldnt be an obstruction to the oil, remeber your physics if flow is constant, restrictions which in this case are blockages the pressure has to be constant (it wouldnt matter how long the pipe was, how wide or even if it had 30 T pieces as none are restrictions). The reason the pressure dropped so badly is in a midget (generalising now only driven about 12 crome bumper) There oil pressure is low already about 40 on a good engine when its hot at tick over. You can ressonably expect a 20psi drop becasue of the turbo creating a new way back to a lower pressure zone. My midget was only ever around 30psi tick, its now 20 in this position and thats after adjusting the spring so in my case is now correct. I seem to remeber that on minis not only does a standard mini rev through a greater range but its oil pressure is way higher.

Arno you have mail.

I typed up the instructions in the end, but its a straight copy bar my couple of extra notes I put in