B18 vtec build
Turbo Mini Forums

Is that a jig for drilling holes for the k1100 head? looks good. What head studs do they use? the std K1100 studs?

Back once again like a renegade master

yep certainly is, im going to be measureing it then making a program on one of the cnc mills at work.

the studs are standard mini but it requires 10 of the longer type

i have now stripped the head fully and deburred all the sharp edges on it. i have started making up the little bungs to be welded in, once this is done i will be getting the grinder out on it.

i have got the car in the garage for once this weekend so i iwll be getting the rest of the little bits of welding and prep work done, so its just the baulkhead and a panels to go.

looking good mate

Andy what metal are you using to plug your block?

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Hopefully he'll be using cast threaded bungs so they have the same expansion index as the engine block

i was just going to use some cast iron bar like SC recommend

Where are you getting the bar from, all my local suppliers are shite, they recon they can't get hold of any!!

I tried going to the local plumbing centre to see if could get some of them threaded cast bungs, but according to them "there is much call for them anymore so they can't get them"...its a complete joke really.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

i hadnt thought of using threaded bungs, i was just going to go with the interferance fit plugs.

well i work for an engineering company and one of the companies we sub work out to has some in stock i think so i am going to ask them if i can have a bit.

if not we have some at work buts its a bit on the large side so id have to turn it down!

matty i like the fact you are making your own parts, its inspired me to have a go at making some of my own bits.

Ah makes things easier then..lol

I couldn't decided whether to buy a kit or make my own then decided, if I bought a kit it wouldn't be as individual and I wanted an excuse to get back on the lathe and mille. Thought this was a good opportuninty! Plus it gives me something to do in my lunch breaks...lol

Edited by matty on 13th Aug, 2007.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

i have got my upper bulkhead now.

thanks again jason (aka milamber) its top notch as usual. you will definately be getting a cal about the cage aswell!

so i have been fiddling about with that trying to get it sorted. hopefully i should be nearly done at the week end, then its grind back the rest of the welds and im ready to start on the cage!

as soon as i get my tube notcher delivered!

Not exactly true! You did accurate cardboard templates to work to, top job. So 50/50 on this one Andy!
Cheers anyway.

Be careful using cast iron bar for the plugs.

You have to consider the effects of the mass / volume along with their thickness of the plugscompared to what they are going in.

I have it on very good authority that EN16 (not EN16T) is what you should be using, light to no taper but with interference all the way down.

The issue is with the way it cools rather than the way it warms up, you can get into the situation where it starts to walk up as it cools because of the effective heat transfer across the joint.

I am not a metaligist but the guy responsible for the information is and has worked in the automotive industry for the last 40 years so should know what he is talking about!!!

I have used EN16 to make inserts previously on other engine projects and have never had a problem ..... damn site easier to get than cast iron bar too!!

Every day is a school day ...........

How fast and how expensive ...... the same question...

thats i good bit of info there. we have got loads of EN16 bar at work so i will be able to do that!

what actually holds the block sealing plugs in , ,and stops it coming out if you have to tap into it ?

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

Make them so they don't fit ..... get them really cold, the block really hot and put them together ..... in there for life!!

An A series block fits into a large domestic oven (and Candice thinks I bought a range because I enjoy cooking ..... actually I only really enjoy eating and the cooking thing is just a means to an end ) and a domestic freezer can get the plugs down to about -10 .... just about enough of a diffference at the required diameters that a light hammer fit becomes permenant.

Every day is a school day ...........

How fast and how expensive ...... the same question...

So you wouldn't consider pluging the block using tapered threaded inserts then, with a dollop of 620 locktite?

We use that stuff at work all the time and its good for 250 degrees C, only way to get things apart is to get them red hot!

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Andy/Roger M - what diameter hole and plug would you use?

Matt, nothing wrong with threaded taper plugs ...... just have to find them and I've drawn a blank in my searches!

udo ... at the risk of sounding like I'm taking the mick .... the sizes that fit! If using an interference plug open out any existing holes just enough to give a full clean up of the entire surface so you know what you've got to work with.

Every day is a school day ...........

How fast and how expensive ...... the same question...

If using threaded plugs, loctited in, why do they need to be tapered?

Sorry should have typd a bit more, take the old stud hole as an example.

stud is 3/8, so if you drill out the threads you will probably use a 10mm drill so what size would the plug be? 10mm 10.??mm.

I'm just trying to picture how much bigger plug would be.

Also goes and measures the oven while shes not in!

The reason for the taper is because the holes you are blocking are galleries (no solid ends) so there is no real indication that the plug has gone up tight. In my experience a taper fitting always tends to seal alot better aswell.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Andy - nice to see you are getting on wel lwith it

JK

If Carling made Mini engines
it would probably be like this one!

On 17th of Aug, 2007 at 12:52am RogerM said:
Make them so they don't fit ..... get them really cold, the block really hot and put them together ..... in there for life!!

An A series block fits into a large domestic oven (and Candice thinks I bought a range because I enjoy cooking ..... actually I only really enjoy eating and the cooking thing is just a means to an end ) and a domestic freezer can get the plugs down to about -10 .... just about enough of a diffference at the required diameters that a light hammer fit becomes permenant.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

roger thats the exact method i will be using, we do quite a lot of stuff like this at work so i can get any help i need. and we have a big oven the block will fit in.

we use pipe freeze liquid nitrogen type stuff to get the inserts cold.