Slightly O/T my 1380 rally car
Turbo Mini Forums

Ah, cheers Dave, the lambda is in the y piece of the lcb, so no issues there hopefully.

Its currently set up as per Des Hammill recommendations:

38mm Chokes
4.5 auxiliary Venturies
F2 Emulsion tubes
165 Mains
175 Air Correctors
45 Accel pump Jets
45 F9 Idle Jets

the idle mixture screws are 2.5 turns open atm, so when you say i need to swap down an idle jet size, do you mean less than the 45F9's that are in there now? is there any point in trying the 55's?

Ive got loads of jets to try, so will have a play tomorrow and get the idle as low as poss..

advance wise, what sort of fiugure would be expected at about 2000 rpm?
Ive been advised not to go over 30 btdc at full chat.

Thanks again

Edited by joeybaby83 on 7th Sep, 2007.

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Also, touching on the last bit of your post, when gently opening the throttle it initially leans out, so would a smaller air corrector orifice be on the cards, ill leave it for now untill the idel is set right.

Cheers

joe

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Joey, I have edited my initial post to correct the error.
To get the idle screws to 1 to 1.5 turns open you need to increase the idle jet size. So yes there is a point in trying the larger jet sizes 50 or 55 until you have the screws set as they should be. This should then give progression that can easily be adjusted by selecting a suitable fx number.
Are you testing your progression by driving the car or just opening the throttle by hand? you need to drive the car to get a meaningful result.
To richen the progression you do need a smaller air bleed orifice so less air is emulsified with the fuel giving a richer mixture. Just select on on the richer side of what you have using the list in my previous post.
Regards
dave

aha, it makes sense now, ill try 55 idel jets tomorrow and see what its like

no wonder i had the idle screws all the way out,

According to A. Graham Bell the AFR for:

starting 1:1-3
idling should be 1:6-10
low spped running 1:10-13
light load ordinary running 1:14-16
heavy load running 1:12-14

so got afrs to aim for now

the engine wont be used under load for a while tbh, need to weld the co-drivers seat rails in and spray the interior mat black, before refitting the seats etc and making it road worthy

Will let you know how i get on

thanks again dave

joe

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Right, lent my tank to a mate to have it copied, said he would have it back to me in 2 days and its been a week...groan...so not been able to get much done carb/engine wise, so got stuck into the bodywork/interior.

Got all the exposed inside seams all tacked or fully welded, repaired a hole in the floor, and given it a grey-licious lick of por 15 (dont laugh at my welding haha)








Its makes a hell of a difference having the inside all nice and clean for a change.

Now ive got a hydraullic hammy, im not sure where to mount it, in the usual place:



or on the back of the gear mount..




Not sure how much travel these hydraullic things need, and I will only get a comfortable inch of movement with it mounted vertically before my arm/elbow hits the bucket seat, do they need much throw?

Cant wait to give it a good pasting!

Edited by joeybaby83 on 26th Oct, 2009.

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Joey, In the second picture down, it is worth fitting a plate to join the B post to the sill. As you can see there is a gap which is normally supported by the bin, which you have removed.
A couple of small plates will put the stength back.
regards
Dave

wow! how high is that gear change !

I would think you can get away with the handbrake vertical,

I havent used one but as its hydraylic i would assume that you can adjust it so that its very muchlike a brake pedal, ie no much movement as there is no linkage to speak off.

anyway, it wouldn't be the end of the worlt to move it.

looking good though!

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

the gear linkage is a little on the high side right next to the steering wheel, so might ditch the kad q/s for a slightly cut down std stick, the throw between gears at the minute is ridiculously small

i decided to put the handbrake in the conventional place as when i was sat in there it just fel tmore natural, even it it is a mile away from the gears LOL

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Well u sertainly take the biscuit Joe, I thought I had too many projects on the go aswell as several more in my head. Nice little set up you've got and it looks like some quality projects on the go, hope to see something soon.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c248/spe...er1/mini007.jpg

If it a'nt broke don't fix it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Joey, 60's will definatly be too big, 55's are the top end of the range you will need.
if you cant reduce the idle below 1400 rpm I would suggest you may have an imbalance problem between the chokes.
If you remove the brass cover at the back of the carbs, the one that covers the progression holes you should be able to see when the throttle plate passes the holes. you should the see if there is a difference between each choke. If there is you will have to get brutal and twist the throttle shaft to correct this.
It may also be that the throttle plates have not been fitted correctly to the shaft. Have the carbs been dismantled??
What ditributor are you using?
Regards
Dave

Thanks Gavin, although compared to your roadster I imagine none of my projects are that involved.

Its a aldon red top with luminition (no vac advance).

The carbs havent been apart, besides a gasket kit, but the spindle/butterflies havent been touched, when closed im sure they both seat fully.

Ill go back to the 55's and have a proper play, they were much better than the 45's anyway, what sort of timing figure should i be aiming for?

Cheers Dave

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

This may have been brought up but i thought you had to have a "mechanical means of handbraking" for legalility. As in Cable not hydraulic, I need to sort my handbrake out and its the next thing on my list.

Ill probably get qouted on this??

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

Luckily we have no MOTs over here so not overly worried on that count, but yes, youre right, i think you do need some sort of mechanical braking for it to be 'legal' iirc

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

btw i love your sig, thats one of the best episodes

"cheese is a kind of meat"

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Lovin the interior. Once painted cant see weld so sod it. LOL

Back once again like a renegade master

Joey, i still have my short reach maniflow inlet manifolds from my 45's when i did rally X they would be ideal for twisty bottom end stages, let me know if you are interested

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LEGENDS
MikeRace, Mini13

Come closer! Not you Fire!!

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

well...bit of a tom fenton-esque update lol

its been sat wanting some wires thrown at it, and with wiring being my most dreaded past time, ive quite happily let it sit there for 2 years haha

anyway the other week i had a bit of spare cash, and decided to use it to get this bad boy on the road, bought a load of wiring bits and bobs, and since then been mulling over how to set about

throughout yesterday and today ive managed to wire up pretty much everything to get it road legal (bar hazards grrrr) its genuinely been the most productive 2 days of my life, and ive learnt a massive deal, and actually found out i really enjoy wiring lol

first i took the original loom, completely unwrapped it and separated it all out ont he floor, mapped what i needed, what i didnt etc, then replicate what was left up to measure

the painless wiring box i bought off iains mig came in very handy and it makes the majority of the loom 'plug n play' although the horn confused me no end and i spent a good hour figuring out that the horn sw needs to go to earth rather than live, but got there in the end

as it stands now, it starts on the button, all the stalk functions work, power is corrctly going to the sidelights and gauges, the dip circuit is working, main beam etc, so im a happy man, most of the loom is running through loverly pop out circuit breakers too :)

all that currently remains of the original loom is the steering column stalks, and the whole of the rear lighting is the origina;, ive just spliced it into the new loom behind the passenger dash

ill post some pics up once ive found my camera

aside fromt h wiring, i fired her up and got her up to temp, tweaked the idle and she happily idles at 1500rpm now ive hooked the alternator up (she would sit below 1600/1700 before, im guesing the higher voltage give better ignion on this red dizzy?)

also i had forgot how loud the drops chatter on idle

oh, also fitted a new alloy tank ( a reproduction of my old one with more baffles and a little sump in the centre), and also fitted the poly rear windows

so, once it has doors, windscreen and the flip front is all wired up, it will be ready to hit the road! really really looking forward to running it in and getting the fuelling set up properly

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

just re-linking all the pics as putfiles gone tits up

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

really does look brilliant Joey!

Excellent work on the wiring, a job i am dreading!

Bet you cant wait to hit that first stage !

The one thing ive found with wiring is to try and finish it in one go, otherwise it gets really confusing when you go back to after a couple of weeks.

"So wat we gonna do tonight Brain?"
"Same thing we do evernight Pinky!"
"Try to take over the world!"

well, just picking up on sunday morning from where i left off on sat night was hard enough!!

gonna hopefully get 99% finished so its just tidy up stuff left

i might not bother rallying now tbh, ill trackday it at first, and they have started road racing up at jurby now too which looks amaing fun, so will maybe give that a try

if i were to rally it, ad need to buy a brand new extinguisher, harnesses, helmet etc, and all my current stuff is brand new (just out of date) its a kick in the balls, in the next couple of years seats will need to be regularly replaced to, its ruining clubman rallying, they expect everyone to have ferrari budgets!

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

if you do go about rallying now as it hasnt been logbooked before you need a whole load of crap for it to pass :( fuel sampling etc its a pain in the arse.

good job on the wiring though, it was a pain also when i had to re-wire mine luckily i knew someone who helped me out, funily enough i also left out the hazzard circuit but being on Q plate i might get away without

David.

made a bit more progress tonight, added a load of extra earths and untangled the loom a bit

before:



after:





once ive gone though all the connections making sure they are insulated and wont short ill wang all the wires up behind the dash out of the way

got some more up to date pics of the beast:







my nice new tank all plumbed in:



roung and ready dash:

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"