long stroke turbo.
Turbo Mini Forums

me i think lol
car was not 100% as i knew the thrusts were going but i still let it be used, i am gusiing that that the thrusts are totally shot but what other problems this has caused i wont know till i pull it

I was wondering why people aren't doing it more. The thing is that if you have a head which flows, you can make the most by having a huge capacity or revving the hell out of it. The 16v engines I've heard about don't tend to do either (that much). For instance, if the K head flows more air than the best Lotus K-Series head, you are talking about a serious capability to get a huge amount out of the A Series naturally aspirated. I can't really see the point of boosting one, apart from you can have 4 point injection. You're limited by the compression ratio and all you're doing by using FI is making a denser charge. The capability of the head doesn't need that. It merely produces higher peak pressures at standard capacities and revs. (which is all very well). If you are going to stroke an engine, there is a better lever effect and the torque reflects this. If you boost the engine, the increase in BMEP will amplify this more. I think stroking and boring is a very good idea with turbos and getting your own back on the head with a more vigourous camshaft.

I like Vizard's air pump analogy. The name of the game isn't boost, it's about shifting as much air into the engine as possible. It's like speed curry eating. Capacity is how big your spoon is and revs are how quick you can shovel it in. Obviously, it makes immediate sense to do this. The question is, why don't people do it then? The answer being that you can strip gearboxes with a 1293 and a decent set of pistons are £450, a crank is a tad more than that. I liked the K idea and I liked the idea of using my bini blower on one, but I figured it's a waste of energy.

I was wondering about how to get the most out of a K engine and it comes back to 2 things, either rev it or make it a biggun, ideally both. I was looking at a very long stroke crank (90mm) and it had a real minimal bearing overlap. Ok, maybe none. This isn't good for whip and you can bet your bottom dollar that this will go up with silly cylinedr pressures. So what's the solution? I suppose you could reduce it by using wrong rods and wrong pistons. Something like bike pistons as well as special rods. Again, bend over and get your chequebook out.

Basically, if you want to do something great, you're going to bloody well pay for it.

I'll update in the "readers projects" section as I'm going blown again in the next few days

Bugger off, I'm getting there.