Other rebuild questions... now starting but wont select gears
Turbo Mini Forums

Got the cam timed in now with a new chain. Thanks

With the inlet manifold are the temps hoter than the water passing through therefore the water is cooling the air/fuel? or is it heating it up?

If it heats it up I will cut the pipes off but if they are used to cool higher temperatures down I will leave them plumbed in.Can I have peoples opinions please.

Inlet manifolds are water HEATED, this is because on cruise conditions off boost, the inlet manifold is in vacuum. This depression causes a cooling effect to the manifold, and in extreme cases it can build up frost which eventually freezes the manifold shut!
In the summer you will have no problem, but in the winter it is possible you might get icing if you don't run it. However on the other side everyone knows cooler intake is better, as it is more dense which equals free power.

I would not connect it, but leave the metal pipes there in case you find you need it.

OK thanks Ill leave them on just not connect them.

I've built the engine up now but cant get it to fire. It turns over well. Fuel is getting in the bore (fresh superunleaded)

I havent adjusted the carb or fuel regulator at all since it was last running on the old standard engine.

I've got a strong spark and its on megajolt/edis not a dissy. The green light is light on the megajolt and the vacuum pipe is on. Plug leads are on 4,3,2,1 using the numbers on the edis coil.

Sensor is 90 degrees before the gap in the trigger wheel (Should it be 90degrees from the start of the last tooth, first tooth or the middle off them?)

Im using NGK BP7 ES plugs, what shall I gap them to?

Im stuck :( Thanks

Any ideas?

What crank sensor are you using?
Have you checked the map?

It looks something like this?


I go from the start of the tooth, i.e. the first bit that the sensor sees

Yes it looks similiar to that but using the Magneti Marelli SEN8D sensor. Ive put the standard metro turbo map on (had to take my PC into the garage lol)

is the megajolt sensing that sensor?

Ive have troubles with one in the past, i put the fiesta one on and all was fgood

Would I still have spark if it wasn't?

ah good point

mayo , a simple test you could do , is pull out a spark plug and put it in the lead and rest it on the head ,then stick your thumb or a screwdriver handle over the plug hole ,then spin the engine over on the starter ,and see if the plug on the head sparks at the same time as the cylinder goes pphhssst.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

Looks like the ignition timing is out, tried the plug with each lead and none of them made the plug spark at the same time. Thanks for the tip. Just need to find out where I have gone wrong now

Have you got the LT coil wires to the edis module wired correctly? Try swapping the HT leads around on 1&2 and 3&4.

In the 13's at last!.. Just

my bad,
i just read roberts post again.
You meant at the same time as the compression stroke. DOH!!

Sorry

Be very careful with that basic test with a coilpack which, by definition is "wasted spark".

Half of the sparks come quite correctly when the cylinder is NOT going "pphhssst'ed".

Get a timing light (strobe) on it.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

Ive now got it starting it was timed ok just one of the wires was loose and the two wires on the coil needed swaping.

NEXT PROBLEM:
It wont go into gear when the engine is running but it will if its not running.

I am still running verto set up with a new clutch off ebay and minispares lightened flywheel.

Would it be the clutch throw out causing this problem?

thanks

Spent all day on it today and haven't found the problem.

I put the original flywheel back on and there was no change but now the self adjuster on the cable has broken.