KAD Internal Gear Shift
Turbo Mini Forums

my engine is genuine rubber mounted with 4 gearbox/engine steadies.

solid mounted lever and then just the selector rod with no steady bar.

selects gear well with no problems at all.

i'm gonna crack on with this ,this week.

maybe.....lol

This is the cheapest place I have seen the racetech ones. About £60 including Vodka And Tonic

http://www.raceparts-direct.com/products/o...niversal+Joints

keep your eyes on ebay, they come up for about £30 every now and again

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

My engine is polyflex bottom and solid top so pretty much solid. My Linkage is also solid mounted to the floor.

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

http://tinyurl.com/67yk3s

^^^ yeah try that and let us know how you get on..

what a clown..

So from reading everything i can find on the subject..
*One expensixe UJ at the gearbox end,
*Selector mechanism angled towards the gearbox input to allow single UJ,

*Gearbox to selector steady bracket fixed in original position under car to homemade brackety thing,
*Selector held in place with steel/alu bracket well braced because the floor flexes,

*As many polybushed engine braces as poss, definately with the two lower rear gearbox ones,
*engine mounts polybushed too i assume,,?

*I think ill support my gear selector on some poly cotton-reel bushes, i dont like the idea of solid-mounting it..
*Most Important: Polish or paint black the selector mech. so it looks sweet..

*? will the gearstick need to be shortened or is it better higher up?
*Small gearstick gaiter to seal selector shaft through bulkhead.

*Opposite-threaded turnbuckle selector-rod to allow in-car adjustment..
*Any more for amy more??
Harry.

Edited by hario on 9th Sep, 2008.

Mark GTT there is nothing but rad and I/C at the front of your car!
Double-Post Damnittt!

sounds about right harry,
altho im prob wrong....

lmfao!

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

Its a Lego UJ..

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

and the tiny url is an ebay link...

On my 64, I had a snag getting the exhaust and shifter in the tunnel and put the shifter (rod) inside.

Unless you have everything locked right up, you need the top bar. Mine was very carefully and solidly mounted yet even the smallest flex in the rubber engine mounts caused the stick to move a lot. Prepare to learn patience.

KEEP THE STEADY BAR, EVEN THOUGH IT LOOKS CRAP.

You want quick positive gearchanges, not something which looks cool and jumps out of second!

It's probably why Kad do those rose jointed engine mounts as well.

For the record, the overall length was reduced by about 2" to clear the handbrake and those 3/8" socket UJ's are your friend. Not sure what anyone else thinks but if it does get "difficult to engage", you might want to perhaps consider beefing the floor up a bit, not just whacking a couple of bolts through.

Edited by Hedgemonkey on 10th Sep, 2008.

Bugger off, I'm getting there.

do you have any pics stu?

In the 80s, early 90s, those FWD cars that used a single rod with no reaction/steady rod deliberately designed the entry point of the actuator/rod to be as close as possible to the centre of rotation of the engine/transmission on its mounts so as the engine rocked, there was no forward/backward movement of the selector rod. On a Mini, that clearly isn't the case.....

And a lot of current FWD cars use bowden cables so it doesn't matter how much the engine/transmission moves.

If you don't want the reaction rod, I guess it all comes down to how much you can stop the part of the gearbox where the selector enters, from moving backwards and forwards.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

i should be ok as i have hardly any movement on my motor at all,
and obviously a solid subby

Sadly not. I flogged the car several years ago. It looked shit anyway. The whole car was a bit of a lash up. I'll have a look and see if I have any on the other puter.

The cables is a good idea but probably overkill on a mini. My mate and I put a 2L carlton engine in his Suzuki Jeep and had to mod the gear selector to shorten it. From memory, it would be perfect as the rod has the same movement prettymuch.

Go down the scrappers and have a look at other rodboxes.

Bugger off, I'm getting there.

But cant you make a braket to retain the steady rod in the original position under the floor rather than up through with the selector shaft??
that way there wouldnt be two shafts looking crap..

not being funny tho, i wouldnt be too fussed having it in there as its not exactlly a bentley inside my car....

mine hasnt got the steady rod and is fine. i mean perfect gear changes etc even doing full throttle clutchless changes with the dog box.

uhmm Maguire K-series....