Turbo Plumbing, actuator, pipe work, dump valve, bleed valve
Turbo Mini Forums

If you don't have a megajolt or squirt, don't install that t piece and line. just terminate at the boost gauge

If you run the MJ signal off the manifold similar to the boost gauge etc you'll see a lot of vacume at idle and the amount of ignition advance will be too high. You really want to see atmospheric at idle so you get a sensible amount of advance but when the throttle is off the stop you want the MJ to see proper vac from the manifold. So in short use the stock connection on the carb used for vac advance on the dizzy, works a treat.

Why does it matter what you see? You set the map to what advance you want at what MAP and RPM. The standard vac take off is after the butterfly so should be the same as manifold anyway I would have thought.

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The stock vac take off is jusssst on the carb side of the throttle, when you touch the throttle the butterfly moves past it and puts it on the manifold side where it sees full manifold vac. On over-run I admit your pulling more vac than at idle but the vac on part throttle is similar to idle, you want say 20+ degrees advance on part throttle but at idle it's a little high. Just flagging this up, not the most relevent thread to do it on but I have noticed this wen shifting MJ, boost gauge, dump valve connections around.

Actually, just reading through my post your right, I forgot about the fact the MJ has RPM input which will obviously be lower at idle than part throttle, a dizzy needs to not see the vac at idle as it doesn't know the RPM! Silly me! Still I think it helped me as my idle is still a little high (plus when using the choke etc) so I was getting a lot of advance.

Edited by Jay#2 on 2nd Apr, 2010.

sorry, didn't explain myself very well did i. im just running the basic set up with carb not throttle bodies so can i T into the line from plenum to regulator or does it need to come from the manifold? in which case i'll have to make a take off. thanx for your help.

this is grate cleared alot of things up..

just to clarify, i have a bleed valve with 3 stalks, i am assuming one in from the actuator and one out to the turbo and the third one it to the atmosphere?

yep!!

hi ben h ive got it all piped like the top pic .but still cant get boost actuator wont move . at high rev,s engine cuts out .also im using a standard 44 carb with a turbo seal kit and needle

Are you trying to make boost by revving the engine when stood still?
If so you won't!

Also do you have a signal to your FPR so that the fuel pressure rises with boost?

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