My Project - K1200RS 1310
Turbo Mini Forums

Paul S: I experienced the same problem from APT. THe solution is to use 12.9 cap head bolts on the two outer ones... It works!

Shit...better get some 6 stripe...Is it a simple replacement? Dont want to leave anything to chance...

I wanted to ask also, iv torqued the mains caps to 68lb/ft as per the engine builder DVD, but my haynes specifies 63lb/ft. Which is right and what torque do you use?

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion

just go with the 68lb/ft as its already done. wouldnt have thought it would make much/any difference.

loking good!

yep the bolts are straight replacement, just double check the length and thread toype when you swap them lol

Hi, I read that thread on mains bolts, lengthy! But informative.

Sprocket I noticed your post on 'place bolts' the 6 slotted bolts on the mains... the factory bolts... I have kept these, are these up to the job? Even though they are a few years old?

Do ARP supply the bolts and nuts for the 4 bolt main cap? Im due to order some head studs so may as well do it at the same time and save on delivery costs - Rod S you say your having problem fitting the ARP bolts - does this mean the set you ordered are incompatible - is that because the block had been tapped from a UNC to UNF. Are blocks UNC in standard form?

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion

You can still buy the standard factory A+ bolts from minispares for about £2.50 each. Why re use old bolts that have been stressed for 60k miles perhaps when you can still get new ones and they wont break the budget.

save a few quid on the head studs as well and use standard studs turned down on the lathe

they are ALL more than up to the job :) I hope they are as they are what I am using :)

Edited by Sprocket on 6th Jan, 2009.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

Hi just found the mains bolts on minispares will deffo buy some of these...

Just to double check, am I ok removing these mains bolts and simply replacing them? As iv already fully tightened them. Also can I replace the bolts without taking conrods and pistons out i.e without starting from scratch?

Dont know if theres a set routine to follow?

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion

yes to both, youll obviously have to re torque everything, but changing the bolts shouldnt effect anything

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

Very good point!! I forgot about that!

I had my four bolt cap machined so it was the same hight as the standard cap where the bolt head lands

I had considered using the shorter 998 mains bolt for the two extra bolts, but they are just a little too long. A hardened washer under the head may have done the job, but I opted for M12 cap heads instead, cheap and cheerful

Hello all,

Progress has been VERY slow recently, but have a few pictures of the work so far. I decided to remove the head, order a new gasket and grind the head studs down further. An absolute back track but didnt want to take any chances.

















Just a couple of questions - which quaife would you consider a better, tougher unit, the swiftune or MEDs? or are they about the same?

Also what final drive would you recommend? The car will not be an everyday car, just for weekend/ track days. Its being built for all out speed! So really dont care about comfort, noise, practicaility etc! I hope to be running 200hp at the wheels what final drive would you go for...i would like a balance between top end and acceleration i.e. dont want a low top speed as I probably wont get the traction ? What would you recommend?

Thanks,
Chris.

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion

200hp at the wheels should be easy with a turbo, what boost to you plan to run?

Final drive depends on wheel size, what are you using?

Team Racing

looking good.

V.NICE

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

Im going to be running 13 inch wheels.

I was hoping to go higher than 200hp tbh, im plannng on running 15psi : )

Thanks for your comments.

Chris.

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion

I'd look at a 3.1 final drive.

What is your compression ratio? You should be able to run more boost than that with injection.

Team Racing

My CR should be 8.37:1 based on my calculations.

What psi do you think it will take?

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion

loadsaboost!!! i'd feel safe putting 20+ through that if set-up properly!

what CR do you run Jim?

Mine is not much lower than that, I've run over 30psi without problems

Team Racing

Bloody hell...

I never expected being able to run that much boost.

Thing is, when its being dyno'd, at what point do you say enough is enough? Do you keep increasing boost until you get signs of DET or do you base it on the engine specification? Or both?

I obviously want maximise power (!!) but dont want to blow the engine up in the process!

Chris.

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion

There was no hint of detonation on my N/A engine. We ran +4 degrees advance from MBT and no hint of knock from 2500rpm to 8000rpm showing the very good knock resistance of these engines

This thread was typical mini shell resto. which I like then got to the second page and it all went nuts! Hahaa.
Decided on rad. and intercooler positioning? Big big ones

Yeah have some idea of what im doing! But only just! Going to go for a remote oil filter and water pump position, and mount a charge cooler at the front me thinks. With the charge cooler rad positioned in front of the grille.

I know what rad im using but cant remember the make or the specs, I have it written down at home, but will mount it in original position anyway.

Just about to order gearbox, looking forward to bolting it on!

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion

you were asking what quaife would be better, swiftune or MED,

i presume you mean the gear kit rather than the diff, if so i would expect that there isnt a lot between them, but personally i would go for the swiftune slick shift kit as both jimster and paul wiginton run them and recomend them highly, dunno any one that runs the med kit.

if you mean the dif (lsd) it will be the same unit except swiftune has the monopoly on the later quaife diff that takes the std crown wheel and pinion meaning you can go for taller ratios than the 3.44, ie 3.2, 3.1, 2.7 etc.