Kad Front Plate Thickness
Turbo Mini Forums

It seems KAD made good use of what was out there, the stem seals we discovered are Peugeot Mi16 ones.

Yep for sure they would look at the OEM market for bits. Much cheaper

Still trying to figure out for sure where the idler pulley with the teeth and the belt guides comes from.. If anybody has a KAD engine with that part would they please post the part number.

Thanks

Why re invent the wheel

I use a cylinder head manufactured by BMW, Timing belt sprockets from a Ford Zetec, tensioner again from a ford, coils from a kawasaki motorcycle.

In the end it is far easier to use something that some one else has spent all the time and money to design and manufacture, especialy when its as common as muck being a mass produced item They way I understood it, KAD used various parts that were standard items from other engines.

Tareq, I have a HTDA9.252 profile (same profile as the KAD and Honda pullies) toothed idler from a Renault HDi engine. its now surplus to requirements. It has no belt guides on it, but its wide enough to modify to take them.

Even the jackshaft pulley looks like the ones on the BDA/BDG engines

I'd be interested in seeing pictures of your tensioner layout Carl. I have the earlier tensioner which is a modified pinto pulley (not as good I think), not like the cosworth one.

KAD mentioned to me there is some kind of locking mechanism bracketry but they dont have the drawings anymore. Does yours have this?

Cheers,

David

...for reference this is what my arrangement looks like:

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2/carl1...py2oftwink4.jpg

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Cheers for that. Definately different to the one I have. Has the hex head to allow easy tensioning. Mines a modified pinto tensioner with a different alloy outer roller. I prefer the later style. KAD gave me the impression that there was some mechanism to securely lock the tension on but I cant see how on your pic.

What you can't see from the pic is that the securing bolt is left-hand-thread, so the rotation of the pulley would tend to tighten the bolt rather than work it loose.

...OK so if I went down this road I would need the reverse thread tap. Is it a single 5/16" UNC thread into the thermostat housing and 5/16"UNF reverse thread on the top nut too? I would assume so....just checking. Cheers.

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cheers Carl. Much appreciated.

how does the oil pump get driven with the setup pictured?

the oil pump gets driven via the usual chain drive (or belt drive if you wish) on the long cam head through the original cam (now used solely as a jack shaft) to the oil pump in its usual place.

Same on both long and short KAD heads, albeit the shortcam head cambelt belt drives the jackshaft direct.....If that makes sense.

yeah i see now. what is the difference between long and short heads then? is it just the way the jackshaft is run.

to be a pedant, its the cam carriers that are refered to as long or short,
the head is the same on both varients,

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thats handy knowing what seals are used on the stems. Do we know a cheap supplier for the Gates belt? :)

we do,lol

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i'm possitive they are the same as i know someone who converted from long to short,

carl

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yes they are the same and you can convert it. I've bought a spare casting and its the new type head with the plug inserts. (my first one didnt have this). Also has dowels too, which i didnt have in the old one.

Hence the reason you occasionally see KAD long cam carriers on ebay with no head lol! When a conversion to the short cam has taken place.

Edited by manifold on 6th May, 2009.

Whats the gates number? Simply google it

You can look it up here too, and cross refference it. http://www.efiminis.olicentral.com/index.php?topic=201.0

You could also count the number of teeth and measure the width then search that document. The profile is HTDA 9.525

Edited by Sprocket on 6th May, 2009.

However. I cannot see any performance gain in going short. Possibly better room in the engine bay.