MOT Failed - structual strength?! - MOT re-Done, Results in - Failed Again.
Turbo Mini Forums

TBH id rather have brace bars and the subframe rear bar in place

the boot floor just make a temporary plate

Yeah, I'd cover the boot floor with something. Also just to stop the boot filling with air and acting like an Anker slowing you down.

When I picked up my front holey sub frame from the powder coaters. He said not to bring the car round here for a MOT. Because it would definitely fail.

Same goes for lightened pedal box's and pedals.

You need to find a friendly mini MOT station these days. I think.

Si

Edited by Si P on 13th May, 2009.

I drill holes in everything..!

Right, got the fail sheet here, from today's test (at a different station).

Can't say I'm best pleased - failed on loads of things. :/

ADVISORY:
Boot floor panel removed.

FAILURES:
1) Rear subframe crossmember removed **DANGEROUS**

2) Service brake efficiency below requirements (45%)

3) Parking brake effeciency below requirements (7%) - !!

4) Front windscreen washer provides insufficient washer liquid (my fault, left it empty after testing it worked.. ha!)

5) Lower column spline lose on steering column - excessive play.

6) Both headlamps aim too high (free adjustment when re-tested, he said)

7) Offside front vehicle structre has excessive corrosion (front wheel arch, end of sill)

8) Both rear indicators not functioning to a satisfactory level (dims the lights when flashing)

9) Nearside front (inner track control arm bush) suspension arm has excessive play in pin/bush **DANGEROUS**

10) Nearside front lower balljoint has excessive play **DANGEROUS** (I know about this one, had asked them to fix if it failed on it - they havent due to the other issues)

11) (Both track rod end retaining nuts lose) Ball joint ball pin shank loose **DANGEROUS**

----------------------------

So, my thoughts are:

#1 - going to get the garage to weld in a bar between the cut bits (yep, nic, you're the winner of class D)

#2+3 - Fucking annoying. Paid someone to sort the brakes for me, clearly didn't happen as expected.. hm. How do you fix the effeiciency?

#5 - I hope it's just the nut that needs tightening - but if not, I think its just the column, fingers crossed the rack is OK..

#7 - is being sorted at the same time as #1

#8 - Hopefully just an earth problem

#9 - What is an inner track control arm bush?

#10 - Will just re-shim

#11 - I presume the bit in brackets is the issue, and the rest is just what the computer outputs for that specific issue? Will tighten

So, thoughts?

what work was done on the rear brakes? could it simply be them needing to bed in?

so no 1, al, is saying all beams etc are illegal ?

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

No, mine is a standard subframe, which has been chopped about - the whole rear crossmember has ben hacked off - THAT is the issue.

I'd ask the tester for guidance on what he will accept as a solution - we could all come up with a 1000 differing opinions on it and ultimately he is the one between a pass and fail sheet

a bar is a fix - no issues there
thats the least of my worries!

Ahh thats not too bad!!

Bleed the brakes and adjust the handbrake.

#9 is is track rod end isnt it?

I have play in my steering colum, its probably just come a bit loose where it mounts to the bottom dash bar.

That may not be the case, as on some items, like for example coil springs, steering arms etc, they can fail on "strength seriously affected by welding" or something along those lines.

I'd have thought that #9 was the tie bar bushes, as the track rod ends are 1. ball joints not pin/bush and 2. they are "outer" not "inner"

Track control arm bush would mean inner lower arm bush to me.

nothing major, bar the welding. Just a few small pain in the arse job's.

possibly. the tester hasn't made it very clear lol.

Its perfectly clear. Track control arm is not the same as steering track rod.

Just ordered some ball joint shims, and:

GBP103AF - BRAKE PAD SET 1275 & S GENUINE
21A1882 - LOWER ARM BUSH LATE TYPE
21A1882MS - LOWER ARM BUSH EASIER FIT UPGRADE BLACK POLY TYPE

(ordered both types of lower bush, as they're dirt cheap and it saves re-ordering if i get the wrong ones).

#11 to me would be the little nuts that are on the Track rod (not end) that then get wound up tight to the Track Rod End? or is that what you thought also?

should be an easy fix!

#5 sounds like it could be the same problem ive got. Check the nut is tight. If it is check the condition of the splines on the rack and column, the ones on my column are fubar but fortunately the rack is ok. Easy fix as long as its not the rack!

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

The column is softer than the rack, I've seen plenty of columns knackered but never the rack.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM