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Mr Joshua

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On 21st May, 2009 stevieturbo said:



On 21st May, 2009 Mr Joshua said:
A bloke I know running NoS on his sky line said that the inlet air would eventualy cool the inlets manifold to the point that the cold start injector would kick in. If you can get a mini to achieve this and control it then you can achieve the optimum inlet charge temp and hold it! As I have been told in the past inlet air temp (IAT) is directly proportional to EGT and TGT.


Skylines have a cold start injector ???? thats new.

I also doubt it would affect water temperature enough for it to think the engine was cold.

I think this bloke might be talking poo.
I was talking to the the chap in his shop at the time, may have the cold star injector bit a little wrong but it surprised him when it started to happen. tanking down the A1 early morning I can see this happening. With my bog standard set up during the day the engine holds its own and no longer over heats but late at night or early morning if I run at high speed the engine struggles to keep the temp in the oil and water.

Experience dictates this can be so. If you introduce numerous high efficiency heat exchangers into any system you will reach a point where the cooling begns to adversely affect that system.

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Mr Joshua

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On 21st May, 2009 SidewaysGTM said:
When I run my larger shots of nitrous which is direct port and downstream of the IAT sensor I see on my data logs that my intake temp on a hot day at santa pod will drop from 35* at the begining of the run to 5* at the end! and due to this the ECU will add some extra fuel due to the IAT compenstation within the ECU map.

West
5 degrees*surprised* thats kin low, water begins to freeze at +6 or +4 degrees cant remember exactly.

But the question basicaly asks if your charge air temp can be too low and the answer is yes. On more modern cars there are all manner of engine peramiters that will cause funny things to happen if the computer believes the engine is cold regarless of how long you have been barreling for.

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SidewaysGTM

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Yep You read Right, I Have the datalogs to prove think I have one that goes lower possibly! but we are talking rather large shots of nitrous.

Of cause with ECU control it is relatively easy to alter the mapping to take into acount the Cooler/denser air as in my situation, but of cause this is the only thing that will be cold all other temps will be correct normal operating etc, a carb/SU has very limited temperature compensation the only comp on a SU is in the fuel temperature either via the bimetalic strip within a HIff or a waxstat on the older style which is about as relable as a chocolate tea pot most of the time seeing it gets heated by the exhaust.

the cut off point for a carb would depend on at what temperature you set it up for and as long as you can prevent icing as you dont want the butterflies to stick open, take a methonal drag car, when you see them start up they are spraying deicer over the butter flies to stop the sticking as methonal is so cool burning

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Edited by SidewaysGTM on 22nd May, 2009.

Got A GTM With A Honda In the Back, and huge Nitrous bottle where the passenger seat should be when racing!

On 19th Oct, 2009 Nic said:
Ill donate to the cause if you can make it do wheelies!!


stevieturbo

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The ecu will know just fine what temperature the engine is from the coolant temp sensor.

Charge air temperature sensors tell a very different thing.


On some methanol fuelled engines, the coloijng effect of evaporating methanol being injected, can even lead to ice forming on the external surfaces of the intakes.

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202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


AlexF2003

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Why the offensive Matt.. I answered the original question.

IME you are not going to get ACT too low in mini - partly as there is no perfect turbo to keep ACTs naturally low.

AlexF


Andy500

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fookin hell 5 degrees thats a whole 100 degrees cooler than some of the IAT's ive seen on mine!! that said mine appears to be shite! hahahaha


stevieturbo

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100degC is not good at all.


Anything above 40degC depending on ambient, and you should be looking to improve things.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


evolotion

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as above. my average inlet temp when on the moove is 30-40 degC. Once boost starts to build this drops to 25-30 degC and stays down to the red line. and thats with an intercooler sitting right above the turbo/manifold and a cylinder head right behind the intercooler blocking some flow.

it heat soacks badly when stationarry but just one pull on boost and the inlet temps are back in check.

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.


stevieturbo

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On 25th May, 2009 evolotion said:
as above. my average inlet temp when on the moove is 30-40 degC. .


Where are you measuring temps, as that statement really makes no sense.

The compressed air would always be higher than un-compressed air.

ie, on boost will always be higher than off boost, for the simple reason the air is heated up so much whehn compressed.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


matty

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I think Denis is saying that due to heat soak, the air temps increase. Due to poor air flow at slow speeds or being static the charge temps don't drop untill it has sufficient air flow. *wink*

Could be wrong though...

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evolotion

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rubber-isolated thermocouple in the inelt runner to cylinder No4.

when i was running a smaller turbo the inelt temps rose with boost perticularly higher up the revs, but with this unit, the inlet temps drop with boost, i assume because the compressor is operating very efficiently + the denser air can cool quicker in the intercooler. i got those figures by averageing 5 power runs in different datalogs . i know it goes against convention but the numbers are what they are. i mentioned the heat soak and head to show that my setup is far from optimum and still achieved sub 40degC inlet temps. in the winter the figures are obviously colder again. if i get time tonite i'll do an ambient temp reading and a power run and datalog :) not looking for an argument, just sayin the figures as they are!

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.


Vegard

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On 22nd May, 2009 Mr Joshua said:



5 degrees*surprised* thats kin low, water begins to freeze at +6 or +4 degrees cant remember exactly.



Yup, cannot go wrong there...

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.



stevieturbo

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Not looking to start an arguement.

Just saying thats I find it impossible for normal, uncompressed ( unheated )air thats passing through the engine, also via the intercooler....so starting cooler, and getting cooled, can possibly be warmer than air that has been heated.

At cruise etc...every turbo car I have monitored temps, have always been in and around ambient off boost. ANd regardless of even the best intercoolers...temperatures on boost, always rise. It just makes sense.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


AlexF2003

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I agree with Stevie...

AlexF


Jimster
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A bit off topic, but I was suprised how slow normal air temp sensors are compared to thermocouples

Team Racing

On 15th May, 2009 TurboDave said:

I think the welsh one has it right!


1st to provide running proof
of turbo twinkie in a car and first to
run a 1/4 in one!!

Is your data backed up?? one extra month free for all Turbo minis members, PM me for detials


evolotion

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On 25th May, 2009 stevieturbo said:
Not looking to start an arguement.

Just saying thats I find it impossible for normal, uncompressed ( unheated )air thats passing through the engine, also via the intercooler....so starting cooler, and getting cooled, can possibly be warmer than air that has been heated.

At cruise etc...every turbo car I have monitored temps, have always been in and around ambient off boost. ANd regardless of even the best intercoolers...temperatures on boost, always rise. It just makes sense.


fair enough, and i agree :) something peculiar about my setup, on cruise my temps are way above ambient only being brought down when i come on boost, perhaps the sensor isnt as well isolated as i first thought *oh well* anyways will stop dragging this off topic and will need to try a thermocouple in the boost hosing before the throttle which will hopefully react less to heatsoak in teh manifold etc!

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.


stevieturbo

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I had previously used the plasitc tipped Bosch sensor.,

Talk about slow...they have something like a 20s response time.


It's a total waste of time monitoring temps with anything slower than an open bulb type thermocuple

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


evolotion

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pulled from an old datalong, unfortunately its started raining so not been able to do a run! shows cruising on the motorway for a while then floring it. But after what you have said will check it with a thermocouple in the inlet piping, dont really want to be spouting shite on here :)

EDIT as its not so clear from top to bottom :
1st window:
RPM
MAP
IAT (or MAT in megasquirt)

2nd window:
TPS
AFR
Duty Cycle

Edited by evolotion on 25th May, 2009.

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.


stevieturbo

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When I sued a crap sensor like i described....temps appeared to stay cool on boost, then tended to rise shortly after, before falling again.

But when cruising they did reflect ambient, or around it. They were just incredibly slow to respond

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


Mr Joshua

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Interesting. I have been asked to modify and repair some temp probes at work and having asked the question they are quick enough to to take 20 data points a second, a little slower than the user would like but well within the tolerence band. And the temperature range you are all talking about is ok to.

I will do some more digging and get some more info but we get them from RS.

Edited by Mr Joshua on 26th May, 2009.

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Joe C

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i think i need to change my sesor.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



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Mr Joshua

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Had a conversation with the guy I was doing these for and he confirmed that the elements being used were platinum resistance thermometers with a temperature range of -60 to +600 degrees running at 35hz. I initialy used some slower ones that cost about £5 each from Farnell. These new ones cost about £12 each.

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Jimster
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I think the main problem with the sensors is the mass of them, I think they can detect temp change quickly, but it takes a few seconds for the actually sensor to lose it's soaked heat

Team Racing

On 15th May, 2009 TurboDave said:

I think the welsh one has it right!


1st to provide running proof
of turbo twinkie in a car and first to
run a 1/4 in one!!

Is your data backed up?? one extra month free for all Turbo minis members, PM me for detials


evolotion

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On 26th May, 2009 mini13 said:
i think i need to change my sesor.


so do i lol :$

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.


Mr Joshua

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On 26th May, 2009 Jimster said:
I think the main problem with the sensors is the mass of them, I think they can detect temp change quickly, but it takes a few seconds for the actually sensor to lose it's soaked heat
Not these ones I got a look at the calibration graphs which were compared to the aircraft fitted platinu wire units and the lines were iIndistinguishable he had to get the plots done on a much finer scale to see the variations.

And like I said they are used to take 35 readings a second.

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