Pics of the charger setup as promised **UPDATED**
Turbo Mini Forums

It was a MED 1380 that i had built then decided to get the VMax kit after so the engine really was built with that in mind. Then something went wrong on the end on the crank (something melted to it!) so off it went to slarks. The engine was given to Brian to work his magic and sort the pistons and head to match and Neil to do everything else. There is alot thats been done (check nmy bank account!! lol) but i dont have the specifics yet. Will have every detail asap.

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There you find my solution.

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...tid=316209&fr=0

I have to say I wonder how that will track you will remain in place there, away from the supercharger. Because mine not didn't stayed there..

How many ampers you have on alternator?

Jani

1399cc, Eaton M45 supercharger, N2O system, compression ratio 9.23:1, boost pressure 0,8bar/11.6psi.

http://www.garaget.org/?car=176816

imo that looks alot better than the old 45 setup i can rember you showing me it outside of where you work it was very trick but was never that keen on the bonnet bulge @:)

Drives
-Ford S-max Mk2 Ecoboost
-Rover 100 VVC #2 - track project

Searching is all you need on TurboMinis

that is truly awesome! cant wait for power figures ect


rich

2012 Avon class c 2nd place 13.8 @98mph

Did Slark's manage to do away with the de-compression plate using dished pistons, as they were intending to do?

Hi all
Sorry for taking abn age to reply but no computer at home!

Yep. The engine has been totally rebuilt with the charger in mind so no decompression plate and there are dished omegas in there but cant remember the cc of them.

I never had any issue with the plate on the old setup. I know some people dont like the idea but it did seem to work.

The bulge will still be on the bonnet for the very near future untill funds are sourced to either get a new front end or remodel what i already have to try and get a better air feed over the I/C

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One other thing people have said about the alternator being where it is is that the blower spins quicker than the engine and may not charge the battery. But its from a motorbike as far as im aware and they rev there nuts off, so it shouldnt be a problen should it? The car itself will red line at about 6k

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it all depends on how the alternator is geared Jonny, although I was under the impression that the water pump drive is geared down already inside the charger.

On a bike I'd assume it's still geared down by way of pulley sizes.

Can't wait to see this running mate, it looks awesome, and I'm dead keen to hear the results you get, as it'll give me an indication of what I can expect

Mr. Prawn, the friendly Crustacean- slowly making steps towards forced induction.

Was just a little worried as Jani had issues with his one melting things!!

Me either!1 Want to keep the momentum going on the project. Got Neil to do a full week on it the other day at the progress was amazing!! Went from the pics of it with the parts oin the box to up and running (without boost). He really did pull out all the stops. Just got to get that part ordered, the bypass vale, and to him then job done as far as i can tell. The one at minispeed is meant to be an uprated one but is £120 plus postage. Dont know if i should try and get one from the scrappers just to get it up and running

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Nice job, looks like its meant to be there. Hope it makes good power.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

I've been wondering about the bypass valve too, there seem to be very few around. I'm going to phone my local mini dealer tomorow and find out what they cost new in standard form.

I've heard many people say the standard ones bleed a bit of boost away and never shut properly, so I'm wondering if it's worth going for the uprated one from the start.

I take it the local place will be making up a flange for you?
I was wondering if there's enough space on the back of the plenum to machine a flat and mount the valve directly onto the back of the plenum... if you've got a weber box still like me it might be a neat place to hide it.

Mr. Prawn, the friendly Crustacean- slowly making steps towards forced induction.

There is a hole where the box was that is blanked off. Thats the jargon on the minispeed site that it doest leak the boost as it doesnt shut off properly. The welder man will need to re-do a pipe. Could get him to reuse the dump valve pipe. Shouls save some pennies!!
This is the one at minispeed
http://www.minispeed.co.uk/new_mini/index....oduct&id=detbpv

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Also just got a mail from Neil telling me to get that part ordered as he wants to crack on with it!! Time to spend some pennies again!!

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sweet. if monies are tight (story of my life!) there's one here cheap on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2005-BMW-MINI-COOPER...=item5883d649c0

Wouldn't like to say if it's any good or not though!

Mr. Prawn, the friendly Crustacean- slowly making steps towards forced induction.

Is that it on the bottom then? Looks a bit shitty but might do the trick. Half the price posted than the other but may need to replace twice as quick. Off to check the bank account!! lol Thanks for digging that up mate, looked for ages on egay and couldnt find a thing!

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Johnny and Prawn...

First.... Johnny I think maybe you don't have that kind problem as I have with that alternator.
You have about 14A alternator and I have 60A alternator so mine is much heavy to rotate as yours. I need that big altenator because I have ECU, big fuel pump, wideband lambda and quite heavy ICEs.

Johnny and Prawn

Don't buy used one bini By-Pass Valve, there is no reason to do that. That money what you think to save thare is so little that it's better to buy new one. ( in my opinion)



Jani

Here are some picture of Eaton's inside..

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Edited by nuukuus on 28th Oct, 2009.

1399cc, Eaton M45 supercharger, N2O system, compression ratio 9.23:1, boost pressure 0,8bar/11.6psi.

http://www.garaget.org/?car=176816

Thanks Jani

Have you had any problems with the BINI one leaking boost?

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No, at least i'm not notice that so then I think if there are some leak then it have to be so minium that I don't feel / notice that..

Now I have really close 1 bar and I use standart mpi crank pylley and I have 19% pulley in supercharger.
( just say if you want compare for yours set up )

Jani

1399cc, Eaton M45 supercharger, N2O system, compression ratio 9.23:1, boost pressure 0,8bar/11.6psi.

http://www.garaget.org/?car=176816

thanks for the constant stream of helpful info jani! What boost did it produce with the standard charger pulley and the MPI lower pulley? that's what I'll be running first off to test everything, before changing to a smaller pulley later on to increase boost.

Jonny: I've just called my local mini dealer, and the standard valve is only £52 including the VAT!

part number 11617568423 :)

For such a big difference in price, I'm definately going to try the standard valve first.

Mr. Prawn, the friendly Crustacean- slowly making steps towards forced induction.

LOL!!!! To right!!

If Jani says its hardly noticable, then im going for it to. If only to get the engine bedded in first. Its something i can uprate later. Getting it on the road is the main thing.
I did have a 15% reduction pulley but sold it as the plan is to do the same as you and fit it later on once everything is working well. They recon its a 20%increase on power. Be interesting to do a RR before and after fit.

Thanks for digging around and finding that part number. Will give my local BMW dealer Dick Lovett (real name!!) a call in a mo and see if they have it in stock!

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Part ordered!! Collecting tomorrow the upto Welder BOB to get it all sorted. Its 50MM o/d pipe we are using. Is this something i can get from halfroads or shall i pop down to Merlin motorsport? They are only the next junction down the M4 to me.

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s'ok Jonny, i was amazed to find it's so cheap! I'll definately be ordering one come payday!

I think it's a good idea to run the setup at low boost first, it's still a very untested idea, with only Jani's car, and a guy called Remko in holland that I know of with finished working examples (and perhaps that white minus we know nothing about). I'm actually putting mine on a standard engine first to test out, to avoid the risk of melting some incredibly expensive pistons should anything go wrong!

Are slark doing all the setup on yours too? What cam are you using?

Mr. Prawn, the friendly Crustacean- slowly making steps towards forced induction.

If I remember right it was 0,70 - 0,75...

Then I put that 15% and then 17% with those pulleys it takes about 0,83bar
between those pulleys I don't find major different....

When I put that 19% some why then I got that 1bar there.

But some why under 5200rmp it is 0,85bar and after that RMP area it rise quite fast to that 1bar.

I don't know is it just that eaton problem or why....

I think it's good to do fist test session lower boost!!

Jani

1399cc, Eaton M45 supercharger, N2O system, compression ratio 9.23:1, boost pressure 0,8bar/11.6psi.

http://www.garaget.org/?car=176816

I told you there is no reason to buy used one!!

1399cc, Eaton M45 supercharger, N2O system, compression ratio 9.23:1, boost pressure 0,8bar/11.6psi.

http://www.garaget.org/?car=176816

lol!!! Cheap as chips Jani!!

Slarks are doing everything as i am a mentally challenged person in the world of motorized contraptions!! I know the cam has been replaced as the lobes were so badly worn. The enging had done 3000 miles if im lucky so that was quite worrying. The engine spec is something i will need to get off Brian next week. ?Neil told him what needs doing and for what and he done it!! proper service!! lol

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