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Home > Technical Chat > Water Injection.....

stevieturbo

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Northern Ireland




On 20th Apr, 2010 tadge44 said:
The only thing that has stopped me trying the crude system Stevie mentions is that it is a road car and often stands unused for a while. I have heard stories that, in these circumtances, rust in the engine can become a problem.

I was going to inject between the carb and manifold, using bike carb pilot jets, so as to have a selection.

Always sounded to me as if it was a cheap way to get extra power in a totally unsophisticated fashion, which suits me.


And why do you think the engine would rust ? and which bits in particular ?

It baffles me where such stories come from.

And you need to use proper atomising jets. The aquamist jets are pretty cheap, but you really need good pressure to make the fine spray. Most proper systems work around 100-150psi. Sometimes more.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


tadge44

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Buckinghamshire

You realise that I was not speaking from personal experience but merely repeating what I had read, so I cant argue with you. However I can envisage situations with a pressurised water reservoir where water could continue to enter the inlet after the engine was stopped and even when it was cool enough not to evaporate the water. In these circumstances if the car was not used for a while rust is likely to affect valves, rings and bores.

Anyway the remote possibility was enough to put me off adding more work to a car that has already given me and a lot of helpful TM people plenty to do.

I accept and understand your comment about proper misting nozzles but that implies that I was approaching this as an engineer rather than a bumbling amateur petrolhead.


evolotion

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Glasgow, Scotland

yip no chance of rust, i ran a system with a high pressuere screenwash pump from a modern car and the misting spray paint caps at the turbo inlet, i twas crude but it did work, upgraded to a proper progressive system for the safety features and so i could slowly feed the water in rather than all in one go. water is only injected when on boost, at such times there is so much heat everywhere there will be no chance for water to pull and rust, just wont happen.

incidently on the same engine i mentioned above, i can only run to 19psi of boost without water/meth injection. and to echo roberts comment, my water/meth injection (Teh crude setup) failed once when well above the non-water injection boost threshold, the detonation was rediculously loud and i cant remember now but i either cracked a ringland or blew the gasket, either way the damage was instant and the only thing stopping it was the water/meth injection.

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.


evolotion

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Glasgow, Scotland




On 20th Apr, 2010 tadge44 said:
You realise that I was not speaking from personal experience but merely repeating what I had read, so I cant argue with you. However I can envisage situations with a pressurised water reservoir where water could continue to enter the inlet after the engine was stopped and even when it was cool enough not to evaporate the water. In these circumstances if the car was not used for a while rust is likely to affect valves, rings and bores.

Anyway the remote possibility was enough to put me off adding more work to a car that has already given me and a lot of helpful TM people plenty to do.

I accept and understand your comment about proper misting nozzles but that implies that I was approaching this as an engineer rather than a bumbling amateur petrolhead.


the system stevie describes has the water resevoir at boost hose pressure, ie when u stop there is no pressure. and a check valve is used (well i did lol) to stop unwanted seepage, check valces are avaliable from any pet shop with a fishy section.

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.


robert

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uranus

i forgot to say , i used a n2o kit petrol solenoid for the cuttoff ,this was needed because the nozzle was after the throttle and the 1st stage turbo ,and brefore the 2nd stage turbo .

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


tadge44

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Buckinghamshire

OK so I now have no valid reason not to try water injection.

Does this mean I can start all over again with the boost/fuelling/ignition advance merry go round in the never ending search for MORE POWER ?.

Or I could just try N2O I suppose.


AWDmoke

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Or both?

On 24th Dec, 2008 Nic said:
eyh? im drubj but very confused##]#IU


apbellamy

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Rotherham, South Yorkshire

Hope your floors are fastened in properly Dave

On 11th Feb, 2015 robert said:
i tried putting soap on it , and heating it to brown , then slathered my new lube on it

*hehe!*


stevieturbo

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Northern Ireland




On 20th Apr, 2010 tadge44 said:
You realise that I was not speaking from personal experience but merely repeating what I had read, so I cant argue with you. However I can envisage situations with a pressurised water reservoir where water could continue to enter the inlet after the engine was stopped and even when it was cool enough not to evaporate the water. In these circumstances if the car was not used for a while rust is likely to affect valves, rings and bores.

Anyway the remote possibility was enough to put me off adding more work to a car that has already given me and a lot of helpful TM people plenty to do.

I accept and understand your comment about proper misting nozzles but that implies that I was approaching this as an engineer rather than a bumbling amateur petrolhead.


Nope, its impossible. How would the reservoir ever be pressurised if the engine is stopped ? Water is either pumped in by an electric pump....or some systems use boost pressure to assist.

Go and slap whoever told you such nonsense :)

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


stevieturbo

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Northern Ireland




On 21st Apr, 2010 tadge44 said:
OK so I now have no valid reason not to try water injection.

Does this mean I can start all over again with the boost/fuelling/ignition advance merry go round in the never ending search for MORE POWER ?.

Or I could just try N2O I suppose.


Generally when you add water/meth, you can lean off fuelling and add timing. Assuming you are limited by knock on the fuel you are already using of course.

Nos would of course give much greater gains though, and better cooling. Its a little more expensive to top up though.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


Tom Fenton
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

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TM legend.

Rotherham South Yorkshire

You buggers. All this talk has now got me looking at water injection systems.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


John

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Mongo

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For the Mini or the Pug Tom?

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.


Tom Fenton
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

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Either or.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


Brett

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i have found my self looking at kits too :(

Yes i moved to the darkside *happy*

Instagram @jdm_brett


robert

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uranus




On 21st Apr, 2010 stevieturbo said:



On 20th Apr, 2010 tadge44 said:
You realise that I was not speaking from personal experience but merely repeating what I had read, so I cant argue with you. However I can envisage situations with a pressurised water reservoir where water could continue to enter the inlet after the engine was stopped and even when it was cool enough not to evaporate the water. In these circumstances if the car was not used for a while rust is likely to affect valves, rings and bores.

Anyway the remote possibility was enough to put me off adding more work to a car that has already given me and a lot of helpful TM people plenty to do.

I accept and understand your comment about proper misting nozzles but that implies that I was approaching this as an engineer rather than a bumbling amateur petrolhead.


Nope, its impossible. How would the reservoir ever be pressurised if the engine is stopped ? Water is either pumped in by an electric pump....or some systems use boost pressure to assist.

Go and slap whoever told you such nonsense :)


actuerly...
i ran water on the old rover coupe heads ,and then on ported sd1 heads ,the coupe heads where then stored on the shelf ,and the seats where definately a little rustier after a year or so than other rover heads in the same store ..
maybe the water steam cleaned them ,or impregnated them with magical water molecules ?

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


stevieturbo

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Northern Ireland

Thats modern junk for ya lol.

And unless sitting in a nice warm heated dry bench...all ferrous metals will develop rust. There is moisture in the atmosphere.

The bodywork on my Granada has never been suject to water injection...yet that damn thing is rusting too !!!

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


gr4h4m

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Chester

mmm water kit group buy...

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!


stevieturbo

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Northern Ireland

more reading...

http://efi101.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5596&highlight=

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


Andy500

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Cheshire

Im in the process of fitting this to my charged mpi as we speak. I have a devils own progressive kit which I got from a guy on here for cheap last year. |Just need to figure out how to mount the tank and pump in the boot!


GaryOS

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Andy, looks like your avatar upset photobucket :(

On 12th Nov, 2009 Paul S said:

I think Gary OS has taken over my role as the forum smart arse *happy*


On 30th Apr, 2010 Rod S said:
Gary's description is best


gr4h4m

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Chester

damn internet police...

I was thinking of using a Devils own pump, and nozzle as you can buy them separate and using the mj to switch it on at a certain psi, but I presume there loads of trick stuff the OEM controller does without me knowing?

What nozzle are you going to use Andy500?

Edited by gr4h4m on 26th Apr, 2010.

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!


gr4h4m

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Chester

looking at the devils own controller they seem to active at 7 psi being the lowest setting, I presume that the big block engines run some very high boost.

In my little setup it would be too low I'm thinking as I peak out at 7-9 depending on revs so I cant see much/any benefit of the progressive controller. The pump and nozzles seem cheap I have asked if they will ship to the uk.
So I'm thinking of running two maps a road and track, just buying the pump pipe, nozzles, check valve and using the MJ to stick it on full at a PSI range via one of the outputs and a relay. I'm sure if you were clever with electronics you could stage the voltage it like it says on there site the progressive controller does.

I was going to put it in before the charger and after the carc on my sc setup. Ben had a similar system and saw a decent drop in temp. Thinking about mounting it under the passenger side or in the boot. Just thinking as close to the engine as possible and there ant much room under the bonnet these days...

Edited by gr4h4m on 26th Apr, 2010.

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!


stevieturbo

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Northern Ireland

TBH, if you're only using 7psi of boost, I really cant see why you would ever need any WI.

Intake temps will already be low...or at least damn well should be. And You could already run a high CR at such low boost.

WI is used to extract more power/safety or allow more boost from setups that are pushing things a bit harder.

And most of the nozzles on the yank stuff would be far too big for a 1300cc engine running such low boost too.

Aquamists nozzles go down much smaller. Generally with the Yank stuff..it would be for engines hitting 400+ for starters, 2.0 turbos etc.
No idea where you get a big block notion from ??

For a Mini, any pump would do, but unless its making a lot of power, choose jet sizes carefully.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


gr4h4m

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Chester

StevieTurbo I run the evil suck through setup so temps can get high.

Check this out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HqBju8QEgKg

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!


Brett

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Doncaster, South Yorkshire

nice vid

Yes i moved to the darkside *happy*

Instagram @jdm_brett

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