correct relay
Turbo Mini Forums

i am listening to everything that is said but some people havent given advice just saying its wrong isnt any help. im thanking you for your help and knowledge but i have also seen a post on here that said i could wire the starter the way i have.
evidently as you guys have said this is not correct so could some one inform me of the correct way to convert to pre-engaged starter on the wiring which may help me find out why the car is cranking on the relay as it works without it as normal there is obviously something in this wiring. any help is greatly appreciated. sharing how youve done it and your knowledge is what im after. i have tried to follow everything people on here have done but i am not sure with this i am not being funny with you just wanted help not making feel like an idiot.

there are two types of standard type 5 pin relays, there is a single feed dual supply relay and a change over relay. The look the same.

right thats great thanks.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

right so your saying that my fuel pump relay is the problem not the stater wiring as of now but it could bring problem later. if so would getting the correct fuel pump relay be the end of it or is something else wrong in the wiring. if it is the same as the diagram on page one all connections the same.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

not wanting to be an arse, but if it's wired like this every time you turn the ignition on the car will turn over.



If you take the wire that goes to the solenoid (crank live) and put that on the fuel pump then all will be well.

EXCEPT: you will need the realy to be a normally closed contact, which by all accounts is not what you have.

Edited by wil_h on 27th Apr, 2010.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

i think its the relay but that drawing isnt how its wired when it works as normal i have jus taken all the wires as said from the correct places and to the correct terminals on the relay the engine only starts on the ignition if the relay is wired in. so therefore if rod s is rite it must be the wrong relay.

Where does the fuel pump wire into all of this, that is the whole reason the relay is being used.

Using the change over relay with battery live (brown) on the normaly open pin (87), and the crank live (white/red) on the normaly closed pin (87a) and the fuel pump live (whaterver colour you have chosen, Red?) on the common pin (30), and ignition live (white) on one side of the coil (85 (12v)) and the reverse acting oil pressure switch (white/brown) on the other side of the coil (86 (ground)). The relay is in the de energised state. there will be no power from the crank live yet to power the fuel pump or starter (87a-30). Once you turn the ignition switch to 'crank' it powers both the fuel pump and the starter solenoid (87a-30), the relay is still de energised. It is not until the oil pressure builds and makes the oil pressure switch, as the engine is turned over, that the relay is energised (85 (12v) - 86 (ground)), switching the fuel pump power supply from the crank live (white/ red) (87a-30) to battery live (brown) (87-30). Now with the ignition switch released from crank, the relay remains energised as long as either oil pressure switch is made (86 (ground)), or there is 12v from the ignition switch (white) (85 (12v))

It is VERY important that the oil switch is a normaly open type as used on the metro, rather than the normaly closed type as used on the mini. Obviously the red white still needs to go to the starter to energise the solenoid.

Note, white/red if its without start relay, or brown/red if it has a start relay.



Hope that makes sense

Edited by Sprocket on 27th Apr, 2010.

http://www.eraturbo.co.uk/technical/technical.htm search....

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Edited by t3gav on 27th Apr, 2010.