BLEED VALVE QUICKY
Turbo Mini Forums

and what happens to the pipe that comes out of the actuator (which the bleed valve is currently on) do you just block it?

So there is no pipe from your turbos compressor to the bleed valve?

Mate if you are set up like that your actuator is not working. It needs to have input from the turbocharger to give it something to work agaist.

It basically uses the pressure from the turbo to push against a diaphram, the pressure will eventally overcome the actuators internal spring and the arm will open to vent exauste gas through the wastegate rather than through the turbine. It is the this that regulates pressure, if it has no input i cannot comprehend how it could posibly work.

Edited by SumpNut on 17th Feb, 2005.

well i have a boost gauge and it goes up when i unscrew the valve....

look at the pics above mate,to see how ive done it.

if i have it the way you just said,what happens to the pipe coming out of the actautor,which the bleed valve is on at the moment?
cheers

anybody got photo's of how it goes on?

so what should i do???????

i thought you meant:

one pipe from actuator to the compressor housing T-piece, then the other side of the T piece into the bottom of you bleed valve.

then the two outlets on your bleed valve, one is blocked, the other is open.

This will be fine.

You are replacing the ECU "electronic bleed valve" with a manually adjustable one.

yeah,so then what was sumpnut saying???

he thought you'd just connected the bleed valve to the actuator and nothing else. When actually you've connected the bleed valve to the take-off on the compressor housing.

Most cars dont have a T piece on the compressor housing as they dont run a bleed valve as standard hence having to put it "inline" with the actuator on compressor.

Ill try draw something to explain.

here you go dude, i just got my crayons out...lol
hope thats right, it's how mines connected anyway and it works.

cheers bud,im still not understanding this though, im ganna take some more pics when i get home for lunch in a min.

basically youve got the actuator,and its got an inlet and oulet. the inlet has got the pipe coming from the turbo going onto it, the outlet just has a bit of pipe with the bleed valve on it,and the other side of the bleed valve is blocked,leaving the bottom of the bleed valve to vent.

this is how it is at the mo

budd666:

spot on

most guys do it like that.
BUT i fit a small flow regulator inbetwen in the line from the turbine housing outlet to the bleed valve the turbo creates so much volume of air i bet it sounds like a compressor comming down the road when you are bleeding the signal off.

the purpose of the flow regulator is to massivley reduce the flow to the bleed valve and the actuator as you DONT need all that wasted VOLUME of air escaping, you only need the pressure signal to open the actuator

i get one of these say from a Pneumatic company with the stalk ends on for a 6mm id hose for about 6 qid ish

MAKE SURE YOU ASK FOR ONE WHICH FLOWS BOTH WAYS.

i then set this to a SMALL FLOW of air by using a compressor
say at 10 psi
after that I fit this in line like i said on the above
the adjustment there after on the bleed valve is SO FINE you only have to less than a 1/4 of a turn from say standard to blanking the actuator signall off altogether

i would advise fitting this method in the cab as the adjustment is VERY FINE...

I hope i have not confused things but i think this is the way to go

and the bonus is you have not got all that WASTED engergy venting.

so is mine wrong then??? (see pic above)

YES YES YES now i have seen your pick

DO IT LIKE budd666 says
and then read my thread above and incorparate that as well

it will be perfect

mind you with the bleed valve FULLY shut up screwed in. your boost will be as per normal

if you fit a flow regulator like i have said as well you will only have to crack it a nats and i mean a NATS.



without the flow regulator you wil have to open the valve considerably MORE
to bleed the signall of to the actuator


hope this helps

i have also wrote this for the other guys on this site AS WELL as its a subject most find confusing.

but the added flowregulator is the way to go

BUDD666: SKETCH SPOT ON BUDDY:

ok so my way is wrong...but how comes i can still alter the boost the wsay ive got it?? what would be different if i do it the way bud666 has pointed out???

and what happens to the pipe that the bleed valve is on at the mo???? block it??

this is the pipe that the bleed valve is connected to

see pic here :

take a look at my pics,to see how i have done it

DAN.

plumb it it like bud666 sketch is and see how you go this is 100% correct
add the flow regulator if you wish as
"the way to go" IN THE FUTURE when you have grasped the theory.

having looked at the the above pick its impossible for it to work and iam sure you must have heard the loud gushing noise of the air escaping THINKING it was boosting higher
it cant work like that!

you see depending in diffrent rev ranges the standar actuator has diffrent crack off pressures up to say 5psi ish ever so small and the SLIGHT FLICKER on the gauge you saw, you thought you were boosting more.

no wonder you got less power from say the higher boost
YOU THOUGHT you were getting

forget what you have done before and plumb it in like bud666 sketch.

and take it from there
dont go above 10psi on your motor

see how it goes be back in a hour
going to gym

ok i will,what do i do with the pipe that the valve is connected to at the mo,block it???

dan pipe it up like buds sketch and forget about the solonoid valve disconnect it

it will be rended useless if you pipe it exactly
as buds666 sketch is

so i dont have to block the pipe that went to the boost solinoid? just take the bleed valve off it and leave it?


apoligies for me lack of knowledge! lol

you either leave it on the end of the pipe and disconnect the wires, or block the pipe off.

if its open you will boost to, well lets say a lot.

it hasnt got a solinoid on it,just the bleed valve.so il take the bleed valve off,put it in line with the turbo and actuator and block the boost solinoid pipe off.

correct??