How well tested is RTS now?
Turbo Mini Forums

For refference, the two AP clutches I measured were a genuine Turbo, and a Minispares uprated, (not the latest one) colour coded, light blue and dark blue respectively.

Ive been using mine for a couple of years now, and its held up to the abuse ive given it...even coated in oil when my primery seal leaked, it didn't slip!

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

I've now found a used AP one in my box of many bits, from a 998 and a light green (possibly blue) colour on the spring.

I can now clearly see the difference between AP and Valeo, but, Joe, why AP ???

My Valeo copy must weigh nearly half the AP one :)

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

I think someone is using a Valeo, but we had problems with mine.

The springs didn't fit together very well because of the 'taper' of the spring isn't consistent on the Valeo and the two springs didn't fit together nicely...



This clutch assembly didn't disengage properly.

In the 13's at last!.. Just

Also

Much easier to convert!

once the rivets are out of the AP ones the holes are a snug fit to tap M8, the valeo ones come up a little big for my liking, you could tap M10, but the spacer then ends up very thin walled.

Edited by Joe C on 10th Mar, 2011.

A pic of mine, still not had a chance to try it yet. I used low cap heads

added benefit the AP's already have the ring
9x 20mm M8 cap heads and some spacers
i have built one of each the ap was the easiest by far

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

Thanks all,

The only thing I can see which makes the AP actually harder to convert is the formed end of the rivet is covered by the pressure plate (because they are on a larger PCD than the valeo one) so will have to be drilled all the way down from the spring side to release them.

That looks like a lot more drilling :)

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

the rivets ar not that hard though,

I drilled out the three rivets holding the pressure plate on, job done

On 11th Mar, 2011 Sprocket said:
I drilled out the three rivets holding the pressure plate on, job done

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

domed cap heads

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

low heads or button heads, which ever.

I have been thinking recently anyway, that it might be stronger fitting a button head, through from the back and using nuts on the top around the ring.

I just keep getting the feeling that the extra clamping force is pulling on those bolts and the thread engagement in the plate is less than any recomended bolted application.

I know there hasn't been any real issue in this respect, but it plays on my mind. If it improves the reliability, it can't be a bad thing, and these are still sort of under development any way.

I doubt you will find anyone willing to modify the verto to the RTS for anyone. It has also been mentioned that if you don't understand any of the procedure or do not feel confident about doing it, you shouldn't. Reffering back to the quote Robert made when he first started on these "Rotory Grenade"

I made some rivets up for mine, to replace the 3 I drilled out.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

you guys should be fine with those fasteners, my RTS was held together with m6 capheads with a tack of weld on the nuts (had issues with them coming undone over time) as that was all i could fit leaving enough meat in my band, obviously not a-series but sure they were every bit, if not more stressed.

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

you guys should be fine with those fasteners, my RTS was held together with m6 capheads with a tack of weld on the nuts (had issues with them coming undone over time) as that was all i could fit leaving enough meat in my band, obviously not a-series but sure they were every bit, if not more stressed.

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

Its the coming loose bit that worries me

Joe do you have any of the bits left from the kits for these?

Yes,

Ive got 3 of the non AP "rings" left, and a length of 11mm bar for making spacers,

Ive got enough M8 cap heads for one flywheel, but they are easy to get.

My sugestion would be to get the flycheels and pull them apart and see what springs you have, I can then do you a set of spacers the right length.

I was going to use two of the minispares 20% increase one (which i believe are copies of the AP?) for it as i have two of them for some reason
so I think I'm right in saying the "rings" wont be required?
The cap heads ill look for if you only have enough for one dont want to be pinching your last few.
So its just the spacers i was after really, what information is it that you need?

Yep, you wint need the rings, as you can use the one already there,

for the Cap heads I had M8x20's these are just long enough, if your using the minispares springs they may be thicker so you might want to look for some longer ones, maybe button heads as Sprox suggested!

when you pull the flywheel apart measure the thickness of the springs, the diameter of the wire used for the rings that support the springs, and the length of the std spacer, from that I can work out what you need.

ok :)

I need a fresh AP clutch to redesign as I have previously suggested. Does anyone have one going spare?

got an old rusty one that looks like the ap but its the standard one not the turbo.....

someone have more photo of the conception with the AP Clutch ? =)