OT £6,000 for back door that does not seal against draughts
Turbo Mini Forums

"That's as good as it gets" What a bulshit excuse to try and get out of doing it properly.

This is who you want http://www.consumerdirect.gov.uk/ the consumer arem of trading standards.

I and the missus have found them very useful in the past.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

I won't fit these doors because they are sxxt. I'm guessing that the 6000 is for making the opening bigger to take the new doors.
If the doors are fitted plump and level then they should ajust to close on to all the seats but due to the design of these doors they will never be 100% daft proof.
What you need to do is get someone eles to come and take a look but it needs to be someone who knows what they are looking at. Then takeit from there and go with with what thay say.
Craig

Craig

my mini van http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=448248

Had to chip my two pence in here, as i work at a local builders merchant over here and as such deal with architects, plans, regs and the trade on a day to day basis.
I'm sorry, but as everyone else has said, it's complete bullshit.
The amount of building regs these days regarding thermal efficiency in building is verging on ridiculous; whilst i understand why it's a complete headache!
I can tell you for a fact that all windows and external doors that are specified by architects in new builds or renovations have to conform to certain regulations, they have a minimum 'U' Value (thermal conductivity value) or 'R' Value (Thermal resistance value) that the build has to achieve. This basically means that all sectors of the house have to work together to conserve heat - the fact is, these days there is insulation underneath the slates, in between the joists, in the cavity walls (sometimes using insulated plasterboard too on the inside to push the u-value up), under the screed and mineral wool inbetween joists seperating floors etc etc. There would be no point in this if the doors let draughts in, it just wouldn't make sense or be allowed.
This aside, the website mentions a "Thermal Break" which means that by separating the frame of the door into 2 separate interior and exterior pieces, then joining the two with a less thermally conductive material the cold temperature transfer into your warm house will be reduced; what the hell would be the point if you've got cold air blowing through the sides??

Even though your conservatory is an add on and there is no building inspector/plans/regs involved, i don't believe for one second that "it's as good as it gets", just sounds like total crap and trying to fob you off to me.

For info the sts 52.0 is a reference to a document detailing CE markings, a European standard, as is the UEatc - (European Union of Agreement Technical Committee) - again a european standard detailing voluntary approvals and CE markings - i can't offer more info on these as i'm not at work but may be ale to help further on the 'performance levels' their website quotes at some point, but have a look at this site here (British Board Of Agreement, they sort out approval on new products/systems etc/) this may help you decipher more information.

Sorry for the essay, but in short, it's crap. As you say, a door is there for a reason and what you have is neither fit for purpose or acceptable. Trading standards, Citizens advice or a lawyer should help - good luck.

Edited by Fortecphil on 17th Mar, 2011.

First step Trading Standards, with, as mentioned, an independent report, and then a solicitors letter often works wonders.

Have a detailed, chronological letter available for anyone who needs it and send copies of all your correspondence to the supplier so that he knowes where you are going. He has to rectify or refund.Dont give up !!

Thankyou Fortecphil, that is exactly my point. Ill have a read of that link when I get home later

I seriously doubt it!

you dont want to drive the U value up though, lower is better!

you probably know this paul , but , when i had 6 k 's worth of double galzing fitted to my last house in 96 ,i specified argon filled ..when they arrived , i looked for the filling point ,that should be visible betwen the sheets of glass in the divider ....there wasnt one ..renegotiation took place . so just check to see if its there .

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

Phone that baldy cunt from cowboy builders ? Might get on tv too.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

Slightly off topic, but due to all these regulations regarding new build insulation, it is now becoming apparent that it is infact having a negative effect, since the building is now more thermally efficient, retaining heat during the winter, it is working the other way in the summer. The building does not reject the heat and more an more people are installing air conditioning. So you now use less energy in the winter, but anything that has been saved is used in the summer for air conditioning, where traditionaly this would not be the case.

Windor? Or one of the others?

On 5th Sep, 2011 Vegard said:
I stand corrected. You should know

"that baldy c**t" love that.......wouldn't mind old melinda in my house though....

"Cars are a lifetime of pain"

Cheers Robert but the filling is there, I have checked.

Scruffster, I cant say who yet incase it goes legal.

Cheers for all the advice lads

I seriously doubt it!

put you heating on ..... only kidding!

give it them in the neck

i think 13,000 for the ballache its caused you is utter crap. I work for a window company, building conservatory bases, and everything done by us is to the highest standard possible and to within 5mm of dimensions which is pretty hard working with mud and bricks. The company drop the odd bollock every now and then, but it happens, and they put everything right and have the intention to get it right first time. Taking old conservatories down we dont half see some bodgery at times.
At the end of the day, you paid the money for the whole lot to be spot on, if it isnt, its thier problem, and they have to sort it. Good luck

You might find working with morter and bricks a bit easier

haha, i meant as in paddling in mud and trying to lay bricks, im glad you used the correct term though, does my nut in when most folk call anything with cement in 'cement'

Dominic Smallcock

Paul, do you have legal cover with your buildings cover - this may pay for the specialist advice you obviously need.

Who did the building warrant for you?

Does mortar shrink?

Since wednesday a crack from top to bottom has appeared through the internal blockwork on the 900mm tall dwarf wall and at the other end on the 1800mm wall the mortar is no longer attatched to most of the blocks or the wall of the house

Edited by paul wiginton on 19th Mar, 2011.

I seriously doubt it!

Mortar doesnt shrink paul, what kindve ground have you got there? if its on top of clay and the footings are say only a foot deep, then theyre not right, clay expands and contracts with water, and at around a metre deep is where it gets a bit more consistant, which is where we take our footings out to in those conditions. the most weve ever gone down is 7ft, no digger involved lol. sandy soil and other stuff id reccomend 450/600mm deep, and around a c25/c30 concrete mix if they had it readymixed, ask to see the receipt if thats the case.
Its either the footings have sunk, due to them not being deep enough, or the footing has cracked indicating a very weak mix. Hope that helps paul.

Id take a shovel and dig down the side of thier footings where the worst cracking is and check depth and if possible take a sample of the concrete and ask to get the concrete strength tested somewhere.

Edited by Carlzilla on 19th Mar, 2011.

Cheers Carl. I dont know what mix they used but I know its over 600 deep as I stood in it the night before they poored the slab and came to my waiste. The ground is clay with a hell of a lot of natural stone, so much stone that youy cannot get a spade in, they had to get a digger after the first 10".
Im a bit concerned as you can move the wall by hand. Needless to say Im fucked off with it now

I seriously doubt it!

If I was you I would get a structural engineer to come and carry out an independent inspection on it.From your description I can say with 99% certainty that its 13k worth of bodge but someone telling you that over the net doesn't really hold a lot of sway.

Your structural engineer should also advise you on the best course of action to proceed with it.

Cheers Ross.

EDIT - Forgot to say that its shit the door doesnt seal and whatever excuses they may give for the walls will also be a crock of shit.Neither of them is upto standard.Its crap you can pay big money for this kind of workmanship,the inlwas did the best part of 20k a few years back on a big conservatory and had issues as well so know what your going through as I took over dealing with the builder for them when he got a bit arsey.

Edited by rosco454 on 20th Mar, 2011.

Have you paid yet? Is not, don't. That will get there attention.