cant get my flywheel off
Turbo Mini Forums

This is how it sits, assembled with the correct bolts, somebody hadnt used the correct strap to fly bolts previously and so im clueless as to what is right.
Where do i need to add washers? Im assuming i need to add them until the straps sit parallel to the assembly,and tighten up?

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I'd say you want 4-5 washers under the straps,

Is this acceptable?

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looks good to me.

a little offset like that is just right IMO.

Right, thanks joe :)
Can get it all back together now hopefully!

Right, its all back together, and it now feels like its either doing bugger all, or it feels like a modern clutch, which it shouldnt do right?
Clutch arm moves, but doesnt really do a lot, so im thinking it isnt moving the clutch assembly at all, wtf do i do now?

I'm not liking any of this. I would like to see a picture of the final assembled clutch from all sides. I just get the feeling that there is something still wrong with this. Just a feeling mind.

The pic at the very top of this page shows the shoulder bolts not seating either, is this still the case? since the cone spring is not compressed very much at all. when the clutch is assembled correctly, the cone spring should sit nearly perfectly flat, if not a little over center.

also, have you tried adjusting the clutch arm?

Read this http://www.minimania.com/web/SCatagory/CLU...53/ArticleV.cfm

and this http://www.manchesterminis.co.uk/index.php...sosinfo&sosid=9

another thought.

Have you used anymore drive straps than was originally fitted, as this will alter the assembled 'spring hight' normally requiring the posts on the backplate machining down a little.

Ill take the bellhousing off again later and take pictures. It needs to be finished today, because the car isnt at my house, due to the fact i dont have a garage i can get my car in to work on:/

If it comes down to dismantling it again, im fitting my med ultralite i reserved for the turbo engine, and pre engaged starter, ive just thought of an easy way of not binning the remote solenoid, by extending the solenoid switch feed, and moving the inertia lead onto battery side

Colin, pictures here, it all looks good to me and clamps together nicely.

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By doing bugger all I assume you mean the clutch is not disengauging?

have you adjusted the lever throwout stop?

Ive adjusted everything to the death, the only thing left to try is changing the clutch arm, as it was a little worn on the ball end, although if this was the case surely it would still do something?

In the middle picture, the shoulder bolts that pass through the diaghragm into the posts of the backplate don't look like they are fully seated properly? The head appears to sit too high. The cone spring also looks to be little compressed in that picture but doesn't look too bad on the third picture (it could still be better).

The shoulder, Not just the threaded part, on the bolts all need to pass through the diaghragm, the straps and then into a recess in the posts on the backplate, the hex head should seat directly onto the diaghragm. Since this flywheel looks to have been lightened, is the main reason there is no recess in the flywheel for the shoulder bolts and why a stack of washers or a spacer is required. Basically you should have the hex head of all those bolts seatig on what ever part they are being tightened up onto. There is no need for any washers under the heads of the bolts.

I am also thinking that the friction plate is thinner being the solid center type, compared to the sprung center type, which would have likely been used originally, and, that there is now two straps per corner rather than the standard one. What this may have in advertantly done is reduced the compression on the cone spring, and likely reduced the clamping force dramatically. Clutch slippage is inevitable on a high output motor.

If you are looking for a reliable clutch that is less likely to slip within the limits of the diaghragm rating (green, orange, grey, double grey) you need to assemble the clutch so that the come spring is either flat or just over center, since that is the point that the spring is excerting the most clamping force it will ever do. Having the spring under center and off flat is only reducing the clamping force and increasing the pedal effort to dissengage the clutch.

To be able to achieve this flat spring situation, you need to carefully remove material from the posts of the backplate. A good start would be to work out the difference in thickness of a solid center friction place and a sprung center one, then add that to the tickness of a single drive strap, thus bringing you nearer to what it would have been in a standard un molested condition.


Simply bunging it all back together and hoping it will cure you clutch slipage issue, is not going to get you anywhere really fast.

As for the soft pedal issue, it could be any number of things such as air in the hydraulics or mal adjustment of the clutch arm.

also, dont think that your lightweight flywheel will be any better, and will more than likely need the backplate machining to get the cone spring somewhere near flat.

at the very least make sure all those shoulder bolts are installed correctly

oh and you are butting the thrust place and lock spring back onto the diaghragm before you put the wock back on?

I was under the impression 2 straps is normal, 3 is for heavier duty use, then needing material removed. From what i can tell the fly is bog standard and just factory balanced, there is no recess in the fly for lugs, the reason for the bolt heads sticking up on the diaphragm is due to new spring washers fitted underneath that are a tad thicker original. The thrust bearing doesnt have any locking device and is pressed onto the plunger, both new.

Edited by Carlzilla on 17th Jul, 2011.

Thrust plate, not bearing

spring washer, I see, ok then.

Personally, that flywheel looks lightenened, and a single strap is standard.

Up to you, But if it was me (and I am anal), I wouldn't be installing that knowing what I know from reading the link I posted to, which is spot on when you read this also

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Ah, i removed the thrust washer and locking spring only this morning for the purpose of removing it all as one piece, i keep thinking the problem isn't lying in the flywheel/clutch assembly. The hydraulic part was bled recently with no air coming out, i have the tinyest amount of play in the master clevis pin, which im happy isnt causing a problem. Im changing the clutch arm to another one now with Craig and im going to give that a shot after adjustment, other than that i really dont know what to try next.

All back together, still did the same thing. So i sat in the car furiously pumping the clutch and i slowly got pedal pressure back. So im now thinking hydraulics again? But last time i bled it no air came out...

Just thought fuck it, bought a new master cylinder, slave cylinder, and braided hose to go direct from master to slave, new float bowl gasket for my hif44 cos i think thats leaking, new manifold gasket cos i think thats blowing too. Sometimes its nice to throw some money at problems. At least ill have an almost fully rebuilt clutch system by the end of it :)

hi guys...

trying to get my flywheel off today to fully strip the engine didnt see a point in starting a new thread about the same thing....

problem is im stuck. i have removed, the flywheel nut, and lock tap but i can get the keyed washer off.. is there some trick to it??

please somebody help....

thanks in advance.

it should just lever out with a screwdriver.

thats what i thought as i saw bill solis do it on his DVD, but mine wont budge:(

this every happend to any of you guys? and tricks to get it out.