engine parts assessment please!! Pic heavy
Turbo Mini Forums

Its funny! People talking about putting bearings back in, and re using them, which I do, but when I had the center bearing failure, after refitting perfectly servicable bearings back in, i was told I should NEVER put bearings back in, not matter how good they are lol.

Now I'm glad I'm not the only 'daft' one to bearings back in :)

Edited by Sprocket on 26th Jul, 2011.

hi everyone... thanks for all the advice so far, dont know what i would do without this forum and its members

well went to the machine shop today... he will be getting back to me with the measurements tomorrow. asked about balancing the crank he said there is no point, as its only done when you lighten flywheel and crank etc. which im not going to do...

so i don't know what to do at the moment. i live on a small island and there aren't many highly tuned engines here, except for the ones the are used in the regional rally so dont if i trust his "expertise" then again surely he know more then i do on the matter....

i am aiming for 130bhp more or less. what do you guys think

as for the bearings i thought they didn't look to good, but what do i know.lol i will be replacing the lot though just for piece of mind. the engine was burning a bit of oil? what can cause this? can warn bearing cause this?

thanks for all the help so far guys

My goal with this engine is 130 bhp +\- mark?i just want a nice fast road engine. nothing crazy

i was thinking something along these lines

reground crank, new bearings all through out.
bores honed, total seal rings
centre main strap
266 cam kit includes followers and valve springs. http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=...id=35807&title=
std head
cross pin diff
duplex adjustable timing chain
grey clutch and ap fast road/rally friction plate. http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=...id=38497&title=
11 stud conversion??
arp con rod bolts/nuts??
t2 turbo, std manifold/carb/dizzy etc.

i am on a budget, but then again, if its needed i would rather buy it now than have to rip the engine out to do something that should have been done already

any advice greatly appreciated

hi guys...

just came back from machine shop.

good news, everything is fine and std. bores just need a light hone, crank a very light grind. he said i can order standard bearing etc....

what are your thoughts on the spec above?

any advice greatly appreciated

any advice for a novice?? especially on the above spec?

Sounds a bit strange saying a light crank grind? That would make the main bearings oversize... Might be worth asking again about that? Did he say polish
The crank?

he said i could order std bearings for the crank... so probably ment a polish. and i mis heard him.

any coments on the spec above almichie?

you the bloke who wanted to know if you could get away with normal con rod bolts instead of arp correct? i was thinking the same as they are pricey. what did you decide in the end?arp?

For a 130hp engine and using that cam I'd save money by not having ARP conrod bolts, not having a centre main strap and not having an 11 stud conversion done on the head. I think a grey clutch might be a bit ott too. The rest seems fine.

Use the money you've saved to recon the gearbox.

The problem with building the engine for a basic 130hp as suggested above, is that when you get the boost urge, you'll have to start pullig stuff apart and swapping it out at more cost.

No bother though if 130hp is your limit and you know you won't get the itch for more, but then, as many will tell you, the itch is compulsory

thanks for the advice jamie and sprocket.

i am plaining to take the gearbox apart to check and replace worn parts.

im just scared that sprocket is right and i will get the itch for more power:(

so will probably keep the arp bolts, 11 stud conversion and main strap. then if in the future i want more power i will have the head worked on, more psi. and wont need to touch the bottom end.

Edited by c2_mad on 31st Jul, 2011.

forget the 11 stud converison, forget the arp rod bolts, put your money into a decent head, a lot of power is to be gained from a good head.

Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs

On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble

crap bennyy, now im all confused again:S

I reoved 20g from ONE 998 rod a while back when balancing rods. I know for a fact that these four rods came from the same engine. They were factory balanced allright. A bit like MED rods.

Edited by bennyy on 1st Aug, 2011.

Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs

On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble

You need to think ahead. I know what I want, just like the 998 turbo... The 998 was going to be just theboost the u2 actuator gave.... That didn't last long, maybe 2 days and I'd fitted a boost controller to give me that little bit more. 7psi turned into 13.

Know you might think you want 130bhp, but when you achieve it you'll only want more.

Take some advise, buy thebest you can afford for the bottom end. You can always swap the head later on. It's a lot bloody easier that changing rod bolts.

There seems to be a divide over arp bolts, some people say STD bolts are fine and that they've never had an issue. But it only takes one issue and it's game over. That lovely 130bhp motor and gearbox end up a £50 block of metal.

I have listened to what Sverige had to say and I'm fitting the arp con rod bolts. I think £75 is much better than £3k for a rebuild....

I'm not using arp head studs, I'm opting for the minispares en24 set with 3/8" additional studs. At £57inc inthink it's good value. That shouldn't stretch either like arp giving better clamping.

The 11 stud is like the arp rod bolts to me, if you want to be changing head gaskets don't get them fitted.

There is plenty of good advise on here, you just need to decide for yourself if it's something you'll need/want.

At the end of the day the big question is are you going to up the boost? I think you know what the answer to that is going to be....

Van was a perfect example of this. We were planning on building a low blow motor 7psi-ish on standard internals.

Now we are pushing 20psi+ on the drag strip and over 170nana's

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

i get what your all saying. so i think im going ahead with arp bolts,11 stud and centre main strap. then if i do end up wanting more power i wont have to mess around with the block at least.

thanks for all the adivce guys

It's what I'm doing...

great minds think alike how many ponies are you aiming for almichie?

170 would be good

with standard gearbox? or you getting straight cut items?