Everyone take a look and give me your response.
Turbo Mini Forums

i think they all have the same no. on the front , strange , hows the cooling now?

I think you need to take the 'lead foot flanigan' correction factor into account in that particular case...

yea, daves right, I was in the car when this happened, it was after jon was drving it around combe like it was stolen. The only time he droped below 1k of the rev limiter was in the pit lane, no cool down lap

Team Racing

no thats blocking the air flow to the rads with cardboard and then going up a mountain pass behind a lorry !!!





this is jon flan the lead man

Edited by minimark on 11th Apr, 2005.

Everyone knows that instructions only have to be read if the thing doesn't work....

Both look very similar.

ie sh1t loads of steam and a car that isn't moving for the next 30 minutes...

LOL!

Glad to see my old K&N is still in use !

WWW.TURBO-MINI.COM

Oh and the block i had all the overheating trouble with was from a C reg Metro Turbo.

Phil.

WWW.TURBO-MINI.COM

I didn' t have the cardboard plate there up that hill, but the fecking lorry..
It didn't just do it with no movement for 30minutes. I had to do this:

Big picture, can someone resize it?? :)
It was a bloody long walk I can tell you as I had to do it twice!

Sorry Dave for stuffing up your thread.

Edited by Vegard on 12th Apr, 2005.

what were you doing? going for a crap in the woods, or going to get some water?

Team Racing

i see from some of the pictures some people are using the metro expansion tank --the plastic caps are a problem - source of a ROVER bulletin ref k seriers head gasket problems - change them after head gasket failure or once overheated -

im currently running a NA engine with approx 80 horses. to keep it cool i have to run a super 4 core rad with a 6 blade fan sitting right under the cowling. It still runs hot, even on cold days. During the summer its a nightmare. Early block with big casting numbers from an 88 mg metro.

I've seen the future and tbh its Pie

fucking hell if that ain't cool nothing is

http://www.Zeemax.com

cooling seems ok now, ive changed the pipework a little, and also ran an electric fan with the mechanical one which got rid of all the problems.

now im trying just the electric fan which means it a bit hotter but not bad

IM RUNNING A CAST NUBERS BLOCK WITH METRO RAD AND HAVE PROBEMS IN THE COLD WHEATHER KEEPING IT HOT SITS UNDER HALF ALL THE TIME FAN NEVER KICKS IN

love that straight cut scream!!!
______
/___|_____
_ (@)___(@)

git

bit o/t i know, but i have 2 blocks without the big casting numbers at the front which and will use one for my rebuild. on the back (would be pushrod side) in the corner next to the fuel pump hole its got the layland mark, but i have another block (no big casting numbers at top) which doesnt have the layland badge. Both have a small version of the WFM 1024 on the other corner same side. Does anyone know if the early (presuming layland mark means very early A+) are 'good' blocks in the grand scheme of things? Things tend to get better as production goes on, or am i being a big gay bear. It came from a late GT AFAIK.

I've seen the future and tbh its Pie

your a big gay bear

i have an early A+ with no casting numbers and it stays cool, never goes past half way on the temp guage.

““A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.”” - Jeremy Clarkson

HI
I had engines which some had cooling problems and others not
:mg metro leaded( st3 276 cam): no pb
: british open(1380 286 st3) : big probs
: spi (1380 276st3) :probs
: mg metro unleaded (1380 st cam twin carb) => cool
british open in std form : can't stay in the middle of the gauge without the electric fan working
: mety turbo ( first block): very hot at red limit in trafic ( have grone in specs in the years but never solved the cooling probs competely (only a heater matrix between the take of point and return to the water pump)helped
:mg unleaded st 3 twin carbs without electric fan, or help in cooling : can't grow to the middle of the gauge even in 30° days in heavy trafic ( on the same place more than 10 minites), it's my actual block, and sure it's the one I'l use in my new turbo :)
last mety turbo : no pb even in very hard condition
at my friend garage I'm seing every weeks lot of mini's with 1275 (spi, bo etc ) that have cooling inefficiency, generaly it seem to be the ones that have the electric fan, when this one don't work the engine overheat.On this side I saw some mini's mounted with mety engines for a 998 upgrade, these haven't the cooling fan because they are earlier 998 1980's mini's, and these seem to go well as this.
fab

both my turbos are the "later" type block with the numbers at the front... both run nice and cool.

Alex

AlexF

an other thing:
the mety that I have dismantled were generally in best form; ie: good bore not really needing an oversized piston, and with not so rusty water passages.
minis 1275 ie cooper british open etc have generally more bore wear and a lot of rust in the water passages, sometinmes their is pieces of rust colmating the passages,
I built an high specs turbo (it was to be mine before some probs) the block was a british open one I phosphoric acide cleaned all the waterpassages and treated them with phosphore coating (prevent any rust to come back),and I carefully opened the water pump passage to the back of the block.This engine is now used by a friend (+40 turbo pistons, phase 2 cam st4 head front mounted intercooler , hybrid turbo 12 psi of boost for the moment.
this engine stay very cool with only a four core rad, even under some hot race days .
My though are that the engine material have changed in the years from mety/monty to minis.I think this because they are not rusting in the same way. Perhaps this can help
cheers
fab

My experience with A+ stuff is also that these seem to be far more rusty than their old counterparts. I've always thought that this is due to lots of English NOT using any anti freeze as it rarely freezes over there.. Up Here we have to use it :)

Comments?

People over here treat minis a cheap pretend cars... they arnt big enough to be a real car so they don't need servicing like a real car!!

WRONG!

Anti-freeze is ALWAYS left too long over here as the name is miss-leading. It doesnt freeze too much here but its the other things coolant does (like rust prevention) that people ignore/forget/are oblivious too.

Ask any K-series owner... they have BIG problems with the head rotting through because people will not service their cars properly!

RANT OVER lol

Alex

AlexF

Exactly. That confirms my suspicions.