problem still there (part 2)
Turbo Mini Forums

How have you wired the pump? Thought of just sticking it permanenely on accross the battery with a fuse, just to test it with it having a really good feed?

Previous Engine: 1040cc Morespeed engine, 1275 turbo head T2 Turbo Mirage Manifolds Megajolt
Previous engine: STD metro turbo, megajolt
Drives: 399bananahp (flywheel) Honda Civic Vtec b18c4 T28 Turbo 1968 Mini

Megajolt maps to download: http://www.jamesfawcett.co.uk/cms/index.ph...&gid=3&Itemid=3

just took it out,fuel psi rises to 12psi ish and stays there even when it missfires.then goes back to 3.5 when letting off..

bollocks,puzzled now...

tried temprarily richening the mixture? obv noteing the initial setting! Checked the plugs after a missfire by switching off and coasting to a stop? should show if its over rich/lean.

could also be the ignition module just cant hack sustained high RPM load. got a spare one you could swap it out with?

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

also what boost you running? as if its only 7PSI, 12PSI fuel could be enough to push past the needle valve and flood the carb.

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

Try pulling out the choke when it misfires to see if richening it up helps?

guys,noticed water marks on the head like last time....fuck

had the head re-faced since then as it was warped,whats the chance of the block being warped?

did compression test and no.4 and 3 were showing around 150, 2 and 1 were showing a tad more.

maybe i should just go buy another block with pistons lol

That wouldnt cause the missfire though weould it!? and RE the water on the head, i had this after i torqued up a head a littel too tight. compression blew bubbles of water otu teh front.

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

funny that mine has shown a misfire at about 4-4.5k but only after a good burst of boost say 7 psi then when it reaches this point it will miss fire , of boost perfect on boost perfect until it reaches 4-4.5 k again, i thought it might be the plugs getting to hot so changed to a set of bp8es insted of 7's that did make it a bit better but it still exsists,
mind you i am running slightly higher cr than most at 9.8.
this problem didnt show on the rollers as it would take time for it to apear.
but my fueling was checked static at 4psi my feed pipe to pump is standard size eg 6mm with a 8mm return.

ray didnt see any lean out on the rollers but as said before they could have been enough fuel in the float bowl so it wouldnt show.

or may as said before could be the valve seat letting extra fuel passed.

im miffed also will have to ring ray at the rolling road to see what he thinks.

ill also let you no how i get on.

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas

Well if the fuel pressure is ok you would think that it could now be ignition. What plugs are you running? At a sustained wot in fourth the plugs could be overheating?

http://www.twin-turbo.co.uk
http://www.hillclimbandsprint.co.uk/default.asp

A man without a project is like a like a woman without a shopping list.

think theyr ngk bp7's or summin like that,have been told the seramic bit on a couple is fucked.could this cause it??

but ive still got the problem with the leak!! dunno what to do now,how much is a block with pistons etc??? or has anybody got one they wanna sell??

might just go buy a normal mini now :(

Do you have a filter between the regulator and carb ?

yep,a universal plastic one. why??

I had similar symptoms years ago and after changing just about everything (hi perf pump, electrics etc.) I threw that filter away. End of misfire. It ran beautifully up to 10 psi on rollers and never even a cough. On the road it misfired occasionally, and letting it idle for about 10 seconds it back in business for a long time.

Remember to use a filter prior to the pump though.

Take the filter away to see if it helps you.

just a thought!!

have you changed the COIL ?????

nope,coil is the right one though..

im thinking of getting rid of it now. the leaking is my main problem now,i think the 2 problems are linked as it misfires and leaks water at the same time.

Coil may well be the right one, but is it any good or is it fucked? Do you know for sure? Did you buy it new and fit it?

Could well be your problem thinking about it, at high revs for a longer period of time, the coil is getting too hot and so it is breaking down and your spark is going weak hence your misfire.

Also get someone to follow you and see if steam comes out the exhaust when it misfires. If so then you may well have cracked head/block problems and you are right about your water leak. If not it may just be the head gasket weeping under pressure.

stuart at vmax gave it me a while back as i was running a 12v sport coil before that,for a day or 2.

but even if the head gasget is weeping under pressure,its leaking when it shouldnt....
there cant be anything other than a fucked block or head which would cause this would there?

thats what worries me.

its the leak that makes me wanna give up,its obviously something serious

Yes I can't deny it could be. How bad is it, e.g. few drips or a full on shower?

1) Find a small bulb (like the size as fitted to the instrument binnacle / gauges .
2) Connect a long length of wire from the positive and negative sides of the coil
3) Run these into your car through the bulkhead or door .
4) Connect them to the bulb. You might want to add a simple switch – your choice
5) Fire up the engine. At tickover, you’ll see it clearly flickering very quickly. As you blip the throttle, it’ll appear to glow brighter. All it’s doing is flashing faster, hence appearing brighter. Over 2000rpm, it won’t appear to get much brighter at all.
6) Go for a drive – the same way as promotes this problem. The bulb will of course be shining brightly. If it flickers as the engine misses, you have a module or ignition-live supply (or possible a coil) problem
7) If it doesn’t flicker, your ign-live and module are almost certainly ok. Your coil might still be suspect however. Easy trick here, is to tape a strobe lamp to your bonnet, fitted to one of the plug leads. I favour using one of those really cheap strobe lamps that are next to useless for anything other than tests like this!
8) Again, you’re looking for a marked reduction in the number of ‘pulses’. Clearly, if the revs drop because of a fuelling problem, it will appear to flash less. At 80+mph in 4th though, your revs won’t drop that quickly!

One question – you do have +12v to your coil don’t you – ie NOT the pink/white wire…

Edited by turbodave16v on 14th Apr, 2005.

weeping gasket cen be from over-torquing .. iv had it hapen before. blew wee watery bubbles out the front of the block.

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

eliminate the coil FIRSTLY!!

do as dave said if you dont want to shell out

i think you are paniking dan and are not seeing the picture CLEARLEY!

you are seeing the worst possible scenario!

and is NOT always the case

please eliminate the COIL!

a coil can be OK one second and then duff the next

i have had two instances of this one on a mg metro was ok till 3500rpm then missed like crazy
under and above these rpms if was fine

and a mini in the seventies were i uset to drive to work and go exactley 4 mile from a cold engine and within a 50 yards ether way it
cut out!!!
both were the coils

ELIMINATE THE COIL ! (FIRSTLEY)

Agree with ben

I have had coil problems before, long period of "down on performance" and difficult to start.

Then one day concked out at 50mph and would not restart. New coil reqd.

Same goes for ignition module.

yeah this is like the 4the head gasget in the last 2 months,so something aint right.

im more worried about the leak now than anything,as if the block is fucked theres no point in sorting the other problem, unless both the problems are linked...

the missfire happens at 90mph ish,and thats when the water comes out, up to 90mph it wont leak..... dunno how bad the leak is but theres water marks all over the head and its def coming from between th eblock and head