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Home > Technical Chat > Steel Crank

turbominij

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Essex - UK

I'm running forged omegas not had it running long so can't really comment on how it is As a daily drive as taking it easy at the mo just to be sure everything is spot on. but with arp main bots, sc billit rods phase 2 cam and stock crank with knife edged and toughened what rev limit do people recon.



"Tuning should be a compromise between what is possible and what is necessary"

10)Thou shalt always quest for more power


Vegard

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I pick holes in everything..

Chief ancient post excavator

Norway

Nah.

Edited by Vegard on 11th Sep, 2011.

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.



cossierick

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wakefield West Yorks

Whats up V, did you sneeze on the keyboard.*happy*


On 11th Sep, 2011 Vegard said:
Nah.


minimole23

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Wiltshire




On 10th Sep, 2011 PaulH said:
That is defiantly the key Robert the lighter the piston and rod the longer the crank will live at high rpm a slightly longer rod in the A series make quite a difference to crank.



Having thrown out the idea of doing a short stroke engine last year this thread has kinda pushed it back into my mind again. Would the combination of 70.2mm South African crank, longer rods and some very light forged pistons result in a bottom end which would be reasonably bullet proof? That is to say the fatigue life of the crank would be significantly longer then that of a 1275 crank.

I imagine that the extra journal overlap would mean not only a stiffer crank (so kinder to bearings) but one much more resistant to fatigue.


On 7th Oct, 2010 5haneJ said:
yeah I gave it all a good prodding


Vegard

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I pick holes in everything..

Chief ancient post excavator

Norway

Yes.
But, fitting longer rods does decrease the torque potential of the engine albeit increasing hp. Is that what you want with a short stroke engine?

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.



mcalvert39

388 Posts
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Manchester

Really? i thought it was the other way around? I thought that long stroke engines dont rev as high but generally produce more torque. Whereas Short strokers make more HP, less torque but are high revving.


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

your right, But V's taking about rod lengths,

long rods make the piston dwell more at TDC. so use the cly pressure more effectivly at high rpm.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



minimole23

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Wiltshire




On 11th Oct, 2011 Vegard said:
Yes.
But, fitting longer rods does decrease the torque potential of the engine albeit increasing hp. Is that what you want with a short stroke engine?


Personally I would rather have rpm at the sacrifice of torque. I don't think 180 hp, 150lb/ft and 8500rpm potential would be unrealistic from an 1146cc (70.2 stroke with +60 pistons) on 20 psi.

Better find out if John K is doing a 6 inch rod yet.

On 7th Oct, 2010 5haneJ said:
yeah I gave it all a good prodding


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

I agree, If I was going short stroke, I'd go for a long rod amd make the mos of the RPM.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



Vegard

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I pick holes in everything..

Chief ancient post excavator

Norway

If I was using a 6" rod, I'd get a forged one....

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.



paul wiginton
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Milton Keynes




On 12th Oct, 2011 Vegard said:
If I was using a 6" rod, I'd get a forged one....


Id get 4

I seriously doubt it!


miniminor63

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The oversills police

Oslo, Norway

Haha!


minimole23

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Wiltshire

Lets assume one wanted to build a 16v turbo engine producing between 180 and 200 hp primarily used for track days with the odd weekend road blast thrown in,consistantly using every inch of an 8000rpm rev limit, would you use a billet crank or a worked a plus job?

I am considering my options as I have a few perfect a plus cranks but really can't decide if its up to the task, I would prefer not to go forged/billet due to the fact that it only takes a primary gear bush to fail or the flywheel to spin on the crank to write it off.

So the question is, will an a plus item be up to it?

Edit: obviously the engine would contain light forged pistons, balanced to nth degree etc.

Edited by minimole23 on 22nd Feb, 2012.

On 7th Oct, 2010 5haneJ said:
yeah I gave it all a good prodding


matty

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Turbo Love Palace Fool

Aylesbury

Ive done about 5k in mine so far, most of the time driven in anger and the crank has been fine. It has been lightened wedged etc and balanced.

In my opinion they are more than up to the job after they have been worked. And being a weekend warrior and track car its not likely to be used in such a way to rack up high mileage for fatigue to kick in. *oh well*

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi


gr4h4m

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Chester



On 12th Oct, 2011 paul wiginton said:



On 12th Oct, 2011 Vegard said:
If I was using a 6" rod, I'd get a forged one....


Id get 4


Maybe V has three and is looking to snaffle a 4th?

Edited by gr4h4m on 23rd Feb, 2012.

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!


minimole23

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Wiltshire




On 22nd Feb, 2012 matty said:
Ive done about 5k in mine so far, most of the time driven in anger and the crank has been fine. It has been lightened wedged etc and balanced.

In my opinion they are more than up to the job after they have been worked. And being a weekend warrior and track car its not likely to be used in such a way to rack up high mileage for fatigue to kick in. *oh well*


Well the clincher for me is looking at the price of forged and billet cranks nowadays, I'll be sticking with a worked a plus and limiting the engine to 8k I think, can't justify blowing 2k on a bottom end!

On 7th Oct, 2010 5haneJ said:
yeah I gave it all a good prodding


george91

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Doesn't jimster use a modified standard crank in his k turbo? if so then surely thats enough proof, as he gives his some proper track use.


matty

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Turbo Love Palace Fool

Aylesbury

I think jims running a EN40 crank in his. My crank has also had resized big ends as im running S rods too
(well the cheaper same part number midget ones) lol .

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi


mw3

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Derby

Me, I probably wouldn't risk it. I'd go all steel. Like said earlier the reason lots of turbo engines don't run steel cranks is because they dont need to rev as high to produce good power. But having said that, its the sustained rpm that kills them.
In yours and Mattys case you've got a turbo and high revs, surely that's double trouble?

But Matty has run a std for a while now as said.

Good luck with the choice

Matt W




On 14th Mar, 2012 mw3 said:
Got a nice big delivery from Carl at Force Racing today.


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

theres soo many variables on this....

is the steel crank billet or forged? for example, what kind of life has the std crank had...

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



1380rich

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412 Posts
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Senior Member

Warwickshire

I've run a worked a+ crank for 3 years of rwybs, trackdays and roadmiles and it's been fine, its on a 4.1 so it reguarly see's 8200rpm with the hardcut set at 8400 rpm with no issues.

Avon 2010 class c 3rd
Avon 2011 class c 2nd 13.8 @ 98mph


tadge44

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Buckinghamshire

Robert will testify that the inline 1275 engine in my car revs its nuts off all the time (I use 7000rpm+ regularly) and its on standard Midget crank,rods and MT pistons.

Been doing this for 2 years and still lucky.


theoneeyedlizard

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7265 Posts
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The Boom Boom speaker Police!

Essex

Mines a standard 6582 crank and standard rods, nothing is balanced.

It regularly see's 7500rpm+ and 20psi.

4000 miles and still going strong.

In the 13's at last!.. Just


TurboTom

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DK-8450 Hammel. Denmark




On 11th Oct, 2011 minimole23 said:



Better find out if John K is doing a 6 inch rod yet.


Not to high jack, but on 6" rods try to look

http://www.7ent.com/products/pauter-forged...en0019-set.html

I know that "Pauter" build some hot engines.

If i have more toys than you when i die, I WIN


Sprocket

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Preston On The Brook



On 23rd Feb, 2012 matty said:
I think jims running a EN40 crank in his. My crank has also had resized big ends as im running S rods too
(well the cheaper same part number midget ones) lol .


Jimster may well confirm, but I thought he was using a standard Turbo crank. So basically a hardened CAM6232. Happy to be proven wrong.

You only have to look at an SH Engineering Miglia crank to see how much is taken out of a standard crank and survives a full season Miglia racing, after which it is pretty much done.

Edited by Sprocket on 24th Feb, 2012.

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........

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