Help running issues
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In the hose running from the cold side of the turbo to the actuator there is a t piece in which at present is venting to atmosphere

Cheers

that would give you masses of boost

Yeah that's wat I was thinking I think this is causing my running problems. If the actuator is not opening it will be constantly boosting and not let the exhaust gasses out of the turbo correctly?

You would just run very lean, stick some pipe onto the 3rd leg of the t peice with a bolt in the end to block it off, why have you put a T into that line anyway? You put a bleed valve inline.

Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs

On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble

It is the t piece for the bleed valve I shall try blocking it off

Cheers

A bleed valve does not have a T piece a bleed valve acts as a T piece, a boost gauge comes with a T piece?

Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs

On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble

My bleed valve has a t piece so it can be run inside the car so the boost can be controlled without getting out and opening the bonnet

Cheers

Put up a picture.

Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs

On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turbocharger-Tur...=item4ab131a96d


This is very similar to the bleed valve kit that i have

this is the set up diagram. quickly drawn its abit shit

cheers

I would bin it, I don't rate them at all, get a normal bleed valve, you can still run it inside the car and are so much simpler.

Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs

On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble

As benny said they are a POS! Just get a conventional bleed valve.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

Can you recommend one? New to all this lol
Cheers

You just want a standard 3 leg valve, turbo Phil had some maybe give him a pm.

Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs

On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble

Im using something similar to one of these (probably exactly the same tbh).

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CAR-BOOST-CONTRO...=item3371c4d09e

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

I can't see what difference it makes what type of bleed valve I use as its doing the same job. Your still bleeding off the pressure???
Cheers

Some are better than others same as with anything else, feel free to keep struggling with yours though

Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs

On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble

We had one line your link above. It didn't really bleed which resulted in far too much boost and an engine rebuild.

The three legged ones that Matty linked to didn't give us this problem.

If you want to fuck your engine up for the sake of a few quid then keep the one you have got. It's your money...

Here's mine, nice and simple, nice and cheap, not flash but does the job intended, this was from turbo Phil, but was a couple of years back now, he might still have some, worth a try.

Audi s4 b5 - 470bhp & 486ft lbs

On 30th Apr, 2012 Brett said:
yeah stick the bit in and give it a wobble

Ok cheers guys thank for all your help I'm gonna run a piece of pipe straight from cold side to actuator on sat and try get her running again

I echo the opinions above.

Last time I was on the rollers I destroyed a head gasket with one of these.

It was set to 10psi which it did, up until 5000rpm where it spiked to 22psi.

The problem isn't the valve bit itself. It's the ball and spring in the t piece. I've since drilled this out and it works a treat.

In the 13's at last!.. Just

Today I tried to get it running again but still no good I checked all the actuator is opening as it should and that the fuel pressure it between 3-4 psi. My actuator is creating a negative pressure and flickers all over the place what does this indicate? Is this normal?

Edited by stevieturbo on 3rd Mar, 2012.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

The fuel pressure stays steady when its idling and raises when the car is revved. I don't know why I put actuator I meant engine. The boost gauge is piped straight into the manifold.

When I have my 12v supply to my coil the negative side becomes live is this normal?
I also have a female spade connect which looks like it comes from the coil negative side that goes to the alternator. Everytime I connect it onto the alternator it kills the spark?


Cheers rick

There shouldn't be any wires between the alternator and coil. There should be 2 brown wires to the starter motor and another brown with yellow stripe to the charge light.

What colour wire are you connecting to the coil?

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi