Slick 50 & oil Additives ??
Turbo Mini Forums

I know slick 50 is shite if you have an engine with hydraulic followers, tried it years ago in a CVH.
Worth buying just decent oil.

Edited by Sprocket on 27th Aug, 2008.

YES an old thread But ............. holds true!

sprocket is right !................ZDDP

now where can we get som ZDDP additve from ... ??????

minimania in the states sell ZDDP additive

http://www.minimania.com/web/Item/ZDDPLUS/InvDetail.cfm

Junk in my opinion.

You want the right viscosity for stuff to stick and the right film strength for it to work. Snag is that when the film strength breaks down, you're looking at needing a residual lubricant (which is what additives are). A crap oil needs more of them. Synthetics work by having a range of chemicals designed to do the job, rather than a mixture of random stuff with the right gloopyness.

For ultimate film strength, castor oil is the stuff to use, but again, it needs to ideally be in an evacusump to stop water buildup/wax formation and needs a regular eye on it.

All this crap with magnetic particles, synthetic this and that and hyper performance additive packs are for engines at the mercy of people like mother. Put more oil in when the light comes on.

There are 2 ways to do it.

20W50 and replace very regularly.
Castor Oil.

Additives and fit and forget oil have no place in a mini, as do synthetics. You need the film strength of castor for the gears. Synthetics fail here (apparently).

You also have to have an eye on the chemical reactions that may happen with bearings when these additives react with the acids in the sump. Bearing in mind that this is precisely the reason why it's important to keep water vapour/blowby out of your sump if you're running Castor.

Putting teflon in your engine is something I've never heard of. I wouldn't want to be anywhere near the exhaust if it was burning oil......

Bugger off, I'm getting there.

i used to run castrol R40 in me rally x car i had heard it had a good recovery rate ie it restores its viscosity quickly after hard runs. after a while i got sponsorship and ran Esso Ultron fully synth i never used any additives in the oil and my engine lasted better on the Synth as aoopsed to the castor based R40. that said the engine appeared so much cleaner with the R40..


is recovery rates important when choosing oils ?

have to admit i have seen some of the additives that make the oil stick a bit better (there is a demo stand at autosilencers with a set of cogs running through oil, on one side normal synth and on tuther it has the additive, you can clearly see the difference. if it is so good why dont the manufactureres put it in from scource surely this is a question that we should all ask.

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