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Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > I fooked up but how bad? water feed... Updated 18-11 new pics on page 3

t@z

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im sorry if this is a retarded question and not really any help to the thread; but what is the purpose of this?

ps best get it a part :)

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eden7842

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turbo water feed at a guess taz

13.95 1/4 mile on a 2.95 fd. Carnt be that hard to beat!


maccamcvey

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On 22nd Oct, 2012 eden7842 said:
If your seeing light when you look down the dizzy hole the surley your not in the bore?

I dont think you would see over to the edge of number 4 that easilly.

As fenton said strip it down, and hope for the best


I can only see light when the piston is at the top of the stroke, but when the pistons at the bottom of the stroke I can't see/feel the piston at the bottom of the hole.


maccamcvey

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On 22nd Oct, 2012 Sprocket said:



On 22nd Oct, 2012 John said:
On 22nd Oct, 2012 madmk1 said:
Shit the bed you went in deep there!!
*hehe!*


*hehe!* *hehe!*

Sorry, its not helping :(



don't worry I have a sense of humour we live and learn.

I am not sure what you mean by a black and decker? I know it's a brand but they make plenty of stuff lol

I imaging you mean some sort of portable drill stand? if so I didn't just free hand with a side handle on the drill

cheers for you help guys I am convinced it needs stripping, kinda new it in the back of my mind jut didn't want to admit to it *frown*


t@z

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On 22nd Oct, 2012 eden7842 said:
turbo water feed at a guess taz


ahh right; i was just gonna run mine from no4 head take off but this seems like a better idea!

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maccamcvey

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On 22nd Oct, 2012 t@z said:
On 22nd Oct, 2012 eden7842 said:
turbo water feed at a guess taz


ahh right; i was just gonna run mine from no4 head take off but this seems like a better idea!


that's a bingo


MikeRace

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If it has busted through and the hole is right at the bottom of the cylinder ie not going to effect compression or come into contact with the rings only the skirt, could you not tap the the hole and screw a grub screw into the stop any water from passing into the bore?

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


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apbellamy

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How are you going to get a tap in the bore brains?

On 11th Feb, 2015 robert said:
i tried putting soap on it , and heating it to brown , then slathered my new lube on it

*hehe!*


jamie@thefatgarage

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I don't think i'd trust a grub screw. Imagine the consequences of it moving at some later date. Piston.. gearbox..other stuff. Chalk it up to experience and get another block. And don't drill into it and get swarf everywhere when its built next time too.

edit:spelling

Edited by jamie@thefatgarage on 22nd Oct, 2012.


Tom Fenton
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I wouldn't write it off just yet, but it definitely needs to come to bits to see what is what. If there is enough depth to get two grubs in there to lock one another in place then I would be reasonably happy with that, not sure I would trust loctite alone in that position with heat and oil.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


Rod S

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On 22nd Oct, 2012 apbellamy said:
How are you going to get a tap in the bore brains?


You could do it from outside with a very long tap or an extended (welded to a bit of bar) one but I would still want to see what is happening inside (ie, engine apart) while doing it, if it was me doing it.

TBH, if it's definately into the bore, until it's apart, there is no way of saying what's best.

Even if the rings don't pass over the hole, the chances are burrs have been raised which will score the piston skirt if not removed.

Just my opinion.

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Paul S

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Once apart, I would try and fix it with a piece of brass rod, 5mm one end 8mm the other, slight interference fit, drifted in and an M10 grub screw at the outside to fix it in.

Then take the water from the head like you should have done in the first place.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


topcat

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1. use a small borescope to see in there- I think they have about a 7mm head diameter so if you have drilled it to 8mm it should go in.

2. as said earlier, use a compressor and blow air into the hole and see where the air comes out. If it blows out of the waterways to the head then you could be ok.

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apbellamy

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On 11th Feb, 2015 robert said:
i tried putting soap on it , and heating it to brown , then slathered my new lube on it

*hehe!*


Sprocket

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On 22nd Oct, 2012 apbellamy said:


That is so 2011

Green poo is where it's at *hehe!*


On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


maccamcvey

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On 22nd Oct, 2012 Sprocket said:



On 22nd Oct, 2012 apbellamy said:


That is so 2011

Green poo is where it's at *hehe!*




Where can I buy this?? haha


maccamcvey

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On 22nd Oct, 2012 Paul S said:
Once apart, I would try and fix it with a piece of brass rod, 5mm one end 8mm the other, slight interference fit, drifted in and an M10 grub screw at the outside to fix it in.

Then take the water from the head like you should have done in the first place.


that sounds like a solid idea, unfortunately the 5mm is not bang on Center of the 8 the larger drill has drifted slightly.

once apart can I not just have the hole welded up? the piston doesn't pass over the hole at all.


Sprocket

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On 22nd Oct, 2012 maccamcvey said:



On 22nd Oct, 2012 Sprocket said:



On 22nd Oct, 2012 apbellamy said:


That is so 2011

Green poo is where it's at *hehe!*




Where can I buy this?? haha


google Kneadadite green, but maybe not with 'poo' lol

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


apbellamy

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On 22nd Oct, 2012 maccamcvey said:
once apart can I not just have the hole welded up? the piston doesn't pass over the hole at all.

You can't easily weld cast and I wouldn't even consider it in a critical area like the bore.

On 11th Feb, 2015 robert said:
i tried putting soap on it , and heating it to brown , then slathered my new lube on it

*hehe!*


paul wiginton
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Put the piston at the bottom of the bore and stick ya probe in - then turn the crank so the piston moves up the bore - see if the probe goes in further

I seriously doubt it!


maccamcvey

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On 22nd Oct, 2012 paul wiginton said:
Put the piston at the bottom of the bore and stick ya probe in - then turn the crank so the piston moves up the bore - see if the probe goes in further


done this and there's no change a glimmer of hope in my book...

cheers


matty

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The skirt should be roughly 100mm-105mm down the bore, so use that as a measurement to see if the hole would be inline with the bottom of the piston.

If it is, poke that wire into the hole then turn the engine over by hand, you should then feel the piston rubbing against the piece of wire.

The only way to fix it is to take the engine apart. If it doesn't seal up correctly then all that water is going straight into the box. If the gurb screw comes loose that is also going straight into the box...both scenarios will not be cheap to fix. *oh well*

As a permantent fix, I would use a long bolt then silver solder it into place. Cut it roughly to length so it screws into the block and bridges into the bore, that way you have 2 points for the threads to hold and it can be done up tight against the head of the bolt on the lug of the box. Once in place, grind the part of the bolt sticking out of the bore down, flush with bore.

Obviously you won't be able to use it as a water feed anymore, but thats a small price to pay to save the block. And a water feed can come from somewhere else.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi


Sprocket

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matty, by the sounds of it, its not broken into the coolant jacket, which means the drill bit has wandered downwards a considerable amount. also if the piston does not interfere with the hole, the hole is not in the bore wall, since most engines I have built, the skirt reaches the very bottom of the bore. Of course if slipper type pistons have been used, the hole could be along side the narrow part of the skirt.

either way, to miss the coolant jacket altogether, the rdrill has wanderd downward considerably.

Check the pic below. The knoby bit that has been drilled is in the shaddow, you can just make it out.


Attachments:

Edited by Sprocket on 22nd Oct, 2012.

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


minimole23

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Good shout sectioning that block, those pictures have proved useful over the years. *Clapping*

On 7th Oct, 2010 5haneJ said:
yeah I gave it all a good prodding


maccamcvey

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hang on... after seeing that pic and not being convinced I drilled it on that much of a piss. I have just being to double check. I have only tested the hole at tdc and bdc not actually had the probe in the hole while rotating. and the piston does pass the hole. at bdc the hole is in line with the notch in the piston.
sorry for the confusion *frown*

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