Electric water pump and side mounted radiator
Turbo Mini Forums

Yes run a ring instead of a stat

I seriously doubt it!

cheers

internationally known as "big" swede

My apologies for hi-jacking the tread.

My apologies for any grammatical errors. I´m not from the U.K.

My apologies to “Paul Wiginton”. I did not try to offend him in any way. My motivation was curiosity. Let me try to explain.

There are a lot of variables in this. I was trying to find out what was necessary. Not what works. So far I have been able to find out that a mechanically driven pump on a mini delivers approx 25 l/min@ 3000 rpm. Don´t take this as a hard fact as I have not been able to verify it. Also there are different size pulleys and different quality of pumps.

Now “daviescraig” claim that a EWP 80 is enough to cool a 300 bhp turbo engine. Then logic suggests that less should be sufficient, if you run a smaller engine. I don’t say it is, but I would like to find out. If say a 50 – 100 bhp mini only need 30 – 40 l/min, why use more energy than necessary.

Also my apologies for suggesting doubt. It was supposed to be a comical remark to yours “I seriously doubt it!”

Once again my apologies. I have been playing with minis for many years, but I’m just a happy amateur. I´m not part of a professional race team. This is just my little hobby.

If i have more toys than you when i die, I WIN

Damn Ipad buttons are to small.

Edited by Doodmeister on 10th Apr, 2013.

Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the the universe.

I had the EW80 setup and fans on an old Lotus Esprit Turbo and the best feature of the controller was the fact it runs the pump and and fans after the engine is turned off which saves heat soak which a rear engine lotus running in a very hot country suffers from lots. No more blown head gaskets after the EW80 install :)
This is only my two cents but is based on fact and real life experience so i would use one again with the controller.

Karl.

Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the the universe.

I'm going to go this route this year on mine for the ability to leave it switched on after switch off

Has anyone got any pics of the pump in situ with a side mount rad?

I have had a good read of madmk1's build (Awesome build by the way!) so got a few from there. I just wondered how low in the hose people had put the pump?

I havent found any other pics anywhere.

A turbo timer is a much cheaper option to leave the pump running for cool down.

Also remember that you must be running an overflow type radiator cap & tank. If the system draws a partial vacuum on cool down it can stuff the seals in an EWP80 (at least in the older model that I have).

Thinking of leaving the stat in but take out the stuff in the middle, creating a small restriction, or maybe it´s better to go full flow?

here is the little bugger, johnsson pump 30, will soon see if it works…:)


leccy by G13B, on Flickr

leccy 2 by G13B, on Flickr

front mounted setup

image-4 by G13B, on Flickr

internationally known as "big" swede

will there be any advantage too hook up another small 14L pump to the heater hose? Had an idea that you could run the big one on a heat switch and the small one all the time, allowing for a quick warm up when not using a thermostat, - bad idea?

internationally known as "big" swede

That is almost identical to what I have. You will need some restriction, I have one of these (but mine is aluminium)

http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/...ack%20to%20shop

I seriously doubt it!

Thanks for the pic Paul, will nock up something similar in the lathe

Cheers

internationally known as "big" swede

A quick Question what side of the rad should the pump be on. Between the rad and the engine or between the engine and the rad?

the pump should draw from the rad from the bottom/cold side. im running a meziere electric pump on mine, its been running fine for 5 years now and that pumps 80l/mini. Im running a shuttle type thermostat on mine from lada, as that doesn't restrict the flow when closed. i would say that 80l/min is about right. on motorways it stays around 80degrees, country roads slightly less, and track days, about 85 decrees.

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www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

how many lpm would the stock mechanical pump have, I am putting the rad in the boot so i want to make sure that i will have enough push to keep the engine nice and cool. I was thinking about getting a small boost pump at about 30lpm plus the stcok mechanical one too.

There are many ways leading to Rome, Paul's is just one and one that seems to work for that matter ( first time I have seen the idea presented was in Bill Solis' '99 book on Miglia preparation) TurboTom's apologies in triple for suggesting different routes / rational behind pump capacity and temp control seems totally unecessary imo.

To me the beauty of digital electronic systems over mechanical systems is the unlimited variable control a microprocessor based control system offers. Be it mappable ignition versus bob weighted distributors or water pumps for that matter.

Any useful controlling of a waterpump/watertemp would of course require sufficient pump capacity to effectively cool the engine under the most arduous conditions, at the same time meaning there are other conditions in which reduced pump flow is required (sapping less energy) or even beneficial (fast cold start warm up springs to mind).

The 18 l/min KAD type pumps from experience on here seems to be of a size that sort of negates the need of advanced control as running flat out constantly seems to just about do the trick coupled with fan control on a preset level.

According to Meziere their 140l/min pump has enough capacity to handle the heat produced by a 650HP 8 cylinder small block Chevy. Accordingly, a 80l/min pump on a 120-140HP rally/race mini seems to have ample capacity to make clever controlling beneficial, by optimising warm up time, making sure the pumps only flows as much as required, with reduced reliance on fan assistance during low vehicle speed situations with little natural radiator air flow.

The Davies Craig controller imo is ideal for above duties, whilst costing only little more than a traditional resistor based electric fan switch kit. My system will be in operation in about 3 weeks time, I'll let you guys know how the theory works out in real life.

Bottom line is, to me having such advanced systems in operation on a car designed in the 50's is part of the fun.

The 650hp engine might have been coupled to a monster radiator and a huge volume of coolant. Trying to cool a turbo mini with a little bitty side-mount rad is not exactly the same thing.

Agreed, however given the fact that an 18l/min KAD pump is able to cope with the requirements of an A-series engine with a continuous 13.5V feed doesn't mean that running a pump with 4 times the capacity is also best run feel speed ahead under all conditions.