ouch! think i need a new crank!
Turbo Mini Forums

lol yeah true, never noticed it slipping tho, but i guess it was slipping when i couldnt get gears properly, then welding itself on again for a few seconds, then breaking loose again. would certainly make sence from how it drove down to the shed. one second i couldnt get gears, then it went in fine, then no gears again, then fine, certainly had me puzzled untilli got the bell housing off.
steve.

doh! why did i start messing with it!

whats the definitive way to fit a flywheel then?

everyone seems to have different (and often contradictory) methods...

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

LAP the flywheel onto the crank using valve lapping paste

make a good job fit a NEW locking tab and tighten the flywheel up to the correct spec using a reliable torque wrench

fold the locking tab back over!

Oh! Remember to line the flywheel and the crank up correctly

and also line the "OFFSET" crank key washer up CORRECTLEY they are only slightly offset.

I have seen many cranks ruined by not following these mandatory procedures CORRECTLEY

The lining up of the SLIGHT OFFSETS must be CORRECT!

BEN:

cheers benross, alot of people ive spoke to recommend not using a lock tab, i take it you frown on this method?

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Not using a locktab?!??!!?!!

Whyever not?! A NEW locktab is ESSENTIAL!!!!

Some others use a method of heating the flywheel assy up in an oven so that it contracts onto the taper to give a very firm fit.
I have not personally tried this, I have always lapped the flywheel onto the crank nose as benross says above, touch wood so far I have never had a problem.

My take on it...

http://www.minifinity.com/index.php?name=P...ewtopic&t=22577

Edited by turbodave16v on 17th Aug, 2005.

tom I noticed you where a bit shocked when you saw I wasn't using a locktab on my flywheel at avon. I've never had a problem.

Team Racing

Locking tabs are A MUST! in my book and toms &
turbo dave

They were derived before the new! Fangled stud locks in a bottle etc some use this method also as there are various strengths

THIS IS INSANITY NOT TO USE THE LOCKING TAB!

Call me old fashioned but use one my friend & follow what i have said above and you will have NO problems at all

Stud lock creates problems binding the threads up “NOT” good thing! if you need to pull the motor down from time to time.

jim whats your method ???

Edited by BENROSS on 17th Aug, 2005.

I've just quit using the lock tabs myself.. We'll see how long it takes for it to loosen....

Cheers TD, id been looking for that MF thread all week.

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

I have always personally used a locktab on the flywheel, I have never had a problem with fretting myself as I have always lapped the flywheel to the crankshaft, but in my days of autograss racing have MANY TIMES seen either damaged engines and casings from a flywheel coming off, or else seen people have to cut a billet flywheel off the end of a crank as it was welded on there!!!!

I use the locktab, lap the flywheel on, and then torque up 3-4 times to 150ftlb over the space of a few hours. In my opinion, this is sufficient to ensure that if the locktab IS going to flatten, you take up this space, and also take up any space from the flywheel moving up the crank. Although if you have correctly lapped the tapers in, this should not happen, as the flywheel should move onto the taper correctly at the first torque-ing of the bolt.

so the as dave describes
1. Lap flywheel on to crank
2. Bolt flywheel and clutch assembly together and check the face of the fly wheel is proud of the crank
3. heat in oven to 150deg
4. using oven gloves place it back on the crank
5. put on offset washer, tighten to 150lbs
6. leave to cool
7. remove bolt
8. fit a blob of locking stuff and tighten to 150lbs again, with no lock tab
9. make a cup of tea

am i getting this right?

if only leyland carried out such a careful installation of the flywheel..

spent a couple of nights over the past 5 weeks trying to remove a flywheel from an old metro engine, tried all sorts, went through a few quality bolts on the puller, in the end the angle grinder was the only way

annoyingly in between getting angry with this stubborn engine there was another flywheel to be pulled on another metro engine, popped off in 5 mins.....

nic if this flywheel procedure kind of gets that the thumbs up you going to paste it into another one of your guides?

I just clean the threads and use thread lock. but my flywheel has been lapped in, By TD

Team Racing

ive had to use the gas axe twice to get verto assemblies off. personally i think vertos are worse than pre verto for welding themselvs on.

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

ive only ever had one flywheel that wouldn't come off on a 998 i wanted the box off, i think we just gave up that time and went to another engine for one, (ive got far too many usless engines kicking about) sound advice above tho i'll be sure to get it on properly this time. ive never had trouble with them before and ive always done them how i did this one but obviously my luck ran out :$
steve

doh! why did i start messing with it!

Looks nasty, similar thing happend to my first engine!


When tightening to the final torque I've always hit the end of the flywheel bolt with a copper mallet, its suprising how many times the bolt can be re-torqued up.

Never had the same thing happen since.

Dammit, now Ive said that its bound to happen again.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Locktabs have their place for sure. IMO, a better design 'tab which isn't fully crushed under the bolt would be better.

Last verto one I took the grinder to - when it came off, the taper was perfect - almost like it was perfectly machined. In effect, this would make it even harder to remove, than if it were slightly mis-aligned. Maybe better machining from beter -technology machines in the Austin-Rover days meant the majority of tapers are 'too good'...
Think about large morse-tapers on larger drilling rigs - the torque is all taken on the perfectly ground taper. The larger tapers need some removing occasionally!

another flywheel was attempted tonight, verto type again, popped off in less than 5mins

dave, good call on the taper being perfect, the one i slit with the grinder had an excellent finish to it also

another point alighty off topic, is i used some plasma cutting discs from machine mart for attacking the flywheel, for the 4 1/2" grinder the disc is only 1mm thick, fantastic for cutting jobs ~ highly recommended

I have been using the 1mm for a few years, bloody awsome!

has anyone thought of trying to lockwire the flywheel bolt on?

Team Racing

Metro turbo weekend driver,Mini turbo in the making again!