Preparation of engine for first start and run in...
Turbo Mini Forums

Ha cheers Andy… I'll head off to the motor factors in a bit and see if they have any!

So another question… Once I have run the engine for 20 mins and knocked in the cam - do I need to drive it soon after that as you advise Slater?
I ask because the car is almost ready to be started but not yet yo be driven. Needs quite a bit of work before it goes on the road...

Edited by evad1980 on 13th Nov, 2015.

It doesn't matter too much about the time frame reqlly. Jus dont leave it sitting idling in the garage if you can help it. Personally I wouldn't go for start up until the car is ready to go. That way you can do the cam and get straight out and drive. The less time you spend starting and stopping, idling and generally faffing the better ring seal you will get.

I'm like a bloody child…. BUT I WANT TO START IT NOW!!!!! WAAAA WAAAA WAAAA

I want to hear it grumble, plus my neighbours are annoying me… so I think they need to hear it too!

1000 miles? That would take me 20 years at current rates...

Agreed! I'll be lucky if i've done 300 miles in mine since it went on the road.

In seriousness, i'd look at at least 2-300 miles of varied revs without great load

OK guys great stuff so far… so now we have the oil discussed, and I think I'm quite clear on that, whats next? Timing…

How do I go about setting the timing properly, what'd be my first steps…?

What map have you got on the megajolt?

Get a gun in it while bedding the cam in and make sure it's reading the same as the MJ.

In the 13's at last!.. Just

I'm sure John has a few handy that would get you started

Ya I thought I had a couple actually. I have no problem getting them again anyway. My pal has some…

What does that mean Gary… get a gun in it? Please excuse my knowledge...

Gimme an angle grinder and a hammer anyday… it's the technical side I have to keep asking about..

He means a timing light. Its the traditional way to set the timing

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

Oh right…. Jeez I think I may need a hand here...

Its simple really, you need to mark TDC position on the front pulley and make sure this is clearly visible when running.. (bit of tippex on the pointer and pulley helps)

When you first start it you just use the gun to check its actually timed to what its saying on the computer. The gun should say the same as the ECU. If its doesn't it just a couple of clicks in the software and you can put a correction factor in to correct it.

Ah right cool… yes sounds fairly straight forward. I will get a helping hand anyway...

With Shaunas, we knocked the cam followers in as per previous comments, 20 mins 2krpm, changed oil and filter, then straight to the rollers to get it mapped and setup, then drove it as you would normally with regular oil and filter changes for a little while, no set miles, no set rpms, no faffing just using it as it should be.

Yeah, one thing I've said is that I'd always do a new engine with an MOTed car now! Especially after first time mine went for an MOT in the best par of 10 years the gearbox came out the next day haha. Aren't you local enough to the rolling road to stick it on a trailer to get yourself up and running then drive it like a hooligan to the MOT station ?

They don't die, they just get faster!

Your estate is big enough to just run it round n round there to run it in with no mot haha

Ya I'll figure something out no doubt… I guess I could rag it to the mot centre lol

Knowing my Luck Dave, it'll be the one day pc plod is doing his rounds...

The mrs at the entrance to the estate with a walky talky

Not a bad idea lol

Not that ive ever done such a thing...

Ok, got an oil pressure gauge.. plumbed it in… should I see movement on the gauge whilst cranking (with plugs out that is)?