water to clean engine.
Turbo Mini Forums

I'm planning on fitting it so that I can run high boost on a 9:1 CR.

I've only fitted the pipes and pump relay so far, but plan on using a Devils Own system with an Aquamist fast acting valve controlled by my ECU and an AEM Failsafe gauge arranged to drop boost to a safe level if anything goes wrong.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

http://www.coolisbetter.nl/catalog/index.php?language=EN

that sounds complex but about what i was thinking should be safest way to run. not yet planning on doing it but sounds more apealing every read i do about it. although the more i read it the more i found about rust damage to. but some how i thinck if you could let it run on for 10 minutes or so without water it should be all heatet out.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

The whole thing is using the water to take heat out of the load.

The equation is Q=M*Cp*dT

Energy change is proportional to mass off stuff x specific heat capacity of stuff x temp change of stuff.

So, you put in cold water. The cold water has a high specific heat capacity, which means when you've boosted something lots, you've got a hot charge and a cold mist. This thermal energy equilibriates with a surprising drop in the intake temps. If you used something with a lower specific heat, it would create less of an affect. The best thing would be using neat water.

There is another equation where Q=U*A*LMTD which basically brings in an "area for heat exchange to take place" the U is the sum of heat transfer coefficients involved, I assume this would be 1 in our maths and the LMTD is log mean temp difference.

The upshot is that the greater area you have, the more heat can be transferred. So, if you have a given amount of time (divide everything by time) a finer mist could whip out more heat.

There will be a balance where the mist load starts interfering with the combustion process. The power graph probably looks like a lump. You'd end up sinking combustion heat into the droplets, then turning them to gas, and the specific heat of vaporisation is quite large for water as well. You'd eventually end up with some pressure generated by steam, but not before you've cained a load of energy getting it to that point.

A simple variable would be to use a knock detector and then muck around with the input temps of water. If you used very cold water, you would be able to maximise the amount of heat extracted from the charge. It would be best to use very cold water and not very much of it. So you got your temp change in the charge without having a "space taker upper" in the form of water/steam.

I recall a mates car which sprayed water on the intercooler! (scooby doo thing).

I presume a water meth mixture would allow you to cool it way below zero, which would give you the cooling factor as well as a small amount of burny stuff.

I imagine there is a book on it somewhere.

If you are curious about water injection one of the manufacturers is aquamist.co.uk
you may find their web site educational.
Hal

Ill have a look. Nice text on it. If it were a track car you could run the tubes trough a box with dry ice. Although. Chance that it freezes if not running trough it fast enough.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

Cooling the liquid would have neglegable benefit for effort involved, the main cooling benefit comes when the water is turned to steam in the combustion chamber imho.

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

Or use a solenoid, I can confirm even with my small nozzle it still pulls the water into the inlet at vac

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

I inject between intercooler and throttle no issues as there is no vacuum. Tank mounted below injection point, and check valves in the system too. Fluid only moves when the pump runs

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

A valve open or close that runs on the vacuum of the turbo should be ideal?

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

i used a crude injection system on a diesel that i boosted before the WI i was seeing intake air temps up to 120C after it was way down to around 70C but mostly lower than that

i was spraying it 3" pre turbo with no inter cooler i was shocked how well it worked for such a crude setup

it was a spray gun cut up so that the boost air was the air supply and the pain suction tube was going to a sealed containor with a tube for boost to help push it threw

this was super crude and basickly dripped water when only on a few pound boost but once up on boost 25-30 pound depending on rpm and throttle it made a nice mist

being so crude the turbine siffred some erosion on the blade tips but supper minor only like a texture change

clearly not the best setup but it worked and got the EGT back down to a some what safe level

it was just a mud bogger 4x4